Build "Rednexus" - 2007 GX470 Build and Fabrication Thread

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First step in Cummins wrenching was figuring out how to get it in the shop. I can't exactly pull it into the shop, and trying to push a 6,000# truck up the concrete floor lip into the shop didn't seem smart either. So I connected the Cummins to my tractor using a 2" piece of square tubing with hitch pin holes drilled in either end of it. One end went into the receiver on the back of the Cummins, the other went into the loader-mounted receiver that I had build last year for the tractor.
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The little Deere had no problem moving the Cummins, despite needing to go uphill on soft, wet leaves, and having a ~50% weight disadvantage.
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Nice! I still bank with their old credit union. The only John Deere product i have ever used.
 
Nice! I still bank with their old credit union. The only John Deere product i have ever used.
Plan A was a used tractor, but 4x4 compact tractors are even more expensive used than a Toyota truck/SUV. Plan B was a Kubota (the Toyota of tractors), but they are expensive new and Kubota is stingy with financing deals. So I went to the Deere dealer, where this tractor had been sitting 2 years (guess no one wanted a stripper tractor with a manual), and got it way under MSRP with 0% financing. It's been an invaluable tool for all sorts of odd jobs and has more than paid for itself.
 
Plan A was a used tractor, but 4x4 compact tractors are even more expensive used than a Toyota truck/SUV. Plan B was a Kubota (the Toyota of tractors), but they are expensive new and Kubota is stingy with financing deals. So I went to the Deere dealer, where this tractor had been sitting 2 years (guess no one wanted a stripper tractor with a manual), and got it way under MSRP with 0% financing. It's been an invaluable tool for all sorts of odd jobs and has more than paid for itself.
Nice. Glad its been solid.
 
Nice. Glad its been solid.
1970s/80s technology still being made in the 2020s, with the benefit of being both underpowered and overbuilt. Like a Land Cruiser :).
 
The Cummins is all done and running again, and back in the care of my FIL (who has owned it for 20+ years). Working on this truck felt much more like working on my tractor than the GX. You can also tell it's a non-Dodge motor stuck in a Dodge - the engine is a mix of SAE/metric fasteners while the truck itself is metric. The lift pump is on the rear middle of the motor (about 8" below the brake booster), and the power steering pump is camshaft-driven and in the front-middle of the motor (i.e., very difficult to refill/check).
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^No pics of the lift pump install. A 1-bananna job although it didn't turn on at first (only getting about 8 volts). I replaced the harness side of the connector (a 2-pin Deutsch which I have many of) and she fired right up. It also has WAY more power than it did before the pump died (the truck had felt like a dog), which indicates to me that this pump had been going out for some time and starving the 6BT of fuel.
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^The steering on this truck was terrible. 4-6" of slop. So it got a new Red Head steering box, an aftermarket steering box support brace/bearing, new pitman arm, and new drag link (all parts removed appeared to be original to the truck). I cut the old drag link off with my M18 bandsaw rather than try to pull it off the old box. Steering is again MUCH improved, but still not as good as I like it. SFA vehicles have a lot of links and joints - it probably has a bit more slop in something we didn't replace.
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^PSA - don't let your brake fluid get like this! Despite having hydroboost, the brakes on the truck did not stop well at all. The fluid in the reservoir looked pretty bad so we gave it a 4-corner bleed. What came out of the wheel cylinders/calipers looked like used motor oil, and a few bubbles came out too. It stops MUCH better now.
 
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Sawbuck is done! Aluminum angle clamps made getting this square much easier.
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Definitely the biggest thing I've built so far. I took my time in setup and it came out pretty close to perfect. It probably weighs 150# or more.
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And it worked perfect the first time! Grabbed a red oak log and dropped it in with the tractor. The sawbuck caught the log right away and barely even moved. Cutting the log standing with the saw waist-higher and higher was drastically faster and safer than cutting logs on the ground (which about destroyed my back last fall). When we go into production firewood mode we'll move the cut rounds directly form the sawbuck and onto the splitter (saving another round of bending and lifting - oak rounds are pretty darn heavy).
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We have a tougher wheeling trip planned this year, so I'm starting to pick out armor. However, I'm hesitant to add too much weight to the GX as it degrades braking, acceleration, fuel economy, and handling. I've already picked the lightest steel bumpers out there (Ascend hybrid front and crossmember-retaining rear), so I'm working on picking out the winch and skids (currently I have no winch, one mangled set of ARB 1/8" steel skids, and a mangled OEM fuel tank skid).

After quite a bit of research (evaluating available lightweight winch and steel/aluminum skids) I've settled on these options:

- Winch: Badlands 12,000 (62# ~$500 on sale) or Sherpa Mustang 9,500 (42# and ~$900)
- Engine/Trans Skids: Slee package (125# and ~$1,000), Coastal Offroad steel DIY (78# ~$620), or a full Hefty Fab 1/4" reinforced aluminum set (85# and ~$2,100)
- T-case Skid: Slee (included in their package) or Hefty Aluminum ala-carte (10# and $385)
- Fuel Tank Skid: RCI steel (52# and ~$400) or Hefty Aluminum ala-carte (30# and $595)

So I made a spreadsheet to compare the various combinations, see the ranges in added weight, and pick the most cost-effective option on a dollars-per-pound basis.
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Option 5 (Badlands winch and full Hefty skid package) is the winner in dollars-per-pound, and only adds 154# to the rig (as I estimate ~160# of existing skids, crossmembers, and plastic will be removed). But it's about $700 more than the Option 1 (Badlands winch and all-steel skids).

I'm certainly leaning towards Option 5, with the caveat that I'm not totally convinced the Hefty's will survive in the long run relative to steel skids. However the Hefty's do have reinforcement ribs front to back, and I had good luck with Primitive Racing 3/16" aluminum skids I ran on both of our Subarus.

If anyone has any feedback or information on Hefty Fab, I'd certainly like to hear it (I may also reach out to them on my own and see how they respond). I think I'd be pretty happy with the rig growing only 154# with full skids/bumpers/winch.
 
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I have the RCI steel fuel tank skid, I love that thing, I hit it every time I wheel. I would push you towards the steel.plate there as it helps protect the back underside.

I run ARB skids and I will.probably need to upgrade them, they are only 60lbs or so since they are 1/8" steel.

I rolled a small boulder underneath my teuck with then. The hardest part was getting it rolling once it was rolling I popped over it.

I bought a Warn 10vr and put a harbor freight synthetic rope on it. Another option there. I think I got mine for like 550$ plus the winch rope. Everyone I wheel with uses warns so we can all use each other's controllers.

My build is minimal. I prefer being svelte and cringe at tossing too much weight on it.
 
I have the RCI steel fuel tank skid, I love that thing, I hit it every time I wheel. I would push you towards the steel.plate there as it helps protect the back underside.

I run ARB skids and I will.probably need to upgrade them, they are only 60lbs or so since they are 1/8" steel.

I rolled a small boulder underneath my teuck with then. The hardest part was getting it rolling once it was rolling I popped over it.

I bought a Warn 10vr and put a harbor freight synthetic rope on it. Another option there. I think I got mine for like 550$ plus the winch rope. Everyone I wheel with uses warns so we can all use each other's controllers.

My build is minimal. I prefer being svelte and cringe at tossing too much weight on it.
Option 3 would give me nearly all steel skids, other than the T-case skid (which I don't currently have anyway). 189# added vs. 154#. Definitely a bit more weight, but not a huge amount.

It's totally possible I'll never use the winch, but I'll definitely hit the skids. The rear-most crossmember on my ARB skids is bent pretty badly, as is the entire transmission skid. They certainly work, but are just not stiff enough for when the GX is hung up on a rock.

I'm trending towards the Hefty kit/Option 5 as I'm a weight weenie, and I'm sure the Hefty's will be a big improvement over what I have now. That is, unless I hear of any negative feedback on Hefty, or if they don't give me warm-and-fuzzies when I reach out to inquire how their skids actually hold up :). In that case, it's Option 3!
 
Option 3 would give me nearly all steel skids, other than the T-case skid (which I don't currently have anyway). 189# added vs. 154#. Definitely a bit more weight, but not a huge amount.

It's totally possible I'll never use the winch, but I'll definitely hit the skids. The rear-most crossmember on my ARB skids is bent pretty badly, as is the entire transmission skid. They certainly work, but are just not stiff enough for when the GX is hung up on a rock.

I'm trending towards the Hefty kit/Option 5 as I'm a weight weenie, and I'm sure the Hefty's will be a big improvement over what I have now. That is, unless I hear of any negative feedback on Hefty, or if they don't give me warm-and-fuzzies when I reach out to inquire how their skids actually hold up :). In that case, it's Option 3!
How are you mounting the winch?
 
How are you mounting the winch?
The Ascend bumper has an integrated winch mount. It's supposedly sized for the Badlands 12000, although the Sherpa looks to be quite a bit smaller.

The OEM front bumper on my GX is getting ragged. I also think it's a re-spray done in the past as it's a bit different color than the rest of the rig and is losing paint. The rear one has been drug lots of times wheeling, and I put a dent in it when hooking up a trailer. So, it's definitely time for real bumpers.
 
Oh interesting rear bumper! I haven't come across that one yet and I may very well end up getting it in the next year. A rear bumper is one of the last things I need to get for my salvage rebuild project. Haven't had a bumper cover on for the past year.
 
Oh interesting rear bumper! I haven't come across that one yet and I may very well end up getting it in the next year. A rear bumper is one of the last things I need to get for my salvage rebuild project. Haven't had a bumper cover on for the past year.
I'm also going to cut out the OEM rear crossmember/crash bar, and build a new custom one with a semi-integrated trailer hitch (like the LC200 and LC250 are set up), out of 2x3" 3/16 wall tubing (same tubing I used for the crossbar on the sawbuck - killing two projects with one piece of steel :)).

I tow quite a bit, but dislike how low the OEM 6,500# hitch hangs when wheeling. This should increase clearance by at least 3" at the back and also save 30+ pounds of weight.
 
So a few updates on parts-picking: 1) the Badlands 12,000 winch actually weighs 80# per Harbor Freight, 2) Hefty Fab has yet to respond to my inquiry on skid plate design/performance despite having it for a week, and 3) Sherpa recommended a 12,000# winch for my rig and indicated there are no discounts/etc. on their expensive winch.

So I revised the options accordingly.
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I'll be going with Option 4, which has an Ultra RDX 12K winch (47# and very well-regarded from the Aussies, who seem to be innovating a lot on winches, as and is the same price shipped as a Sherpa) and a RCI aluminum fuel tank skid. I do like the Hefty Aluminum TC skid plate and it's actually cheaper than the RCI version, so I retained that. This setup is nearly 90 pounds lighter than the Option 1 "base case", yet adds less than $500 in cost.

The winch and T-case skid have both been ordered, given Hefty's advertised long lead times and the need for the winch to get shipped from Australia. I'll wait until Memorial Day sales to pick up the skids from Coastal/RCI and bumpers from Ascend. I'm hoping to have everything installed by late July well in advance of a September wheeling trip.
 
If that winch option doesn't pan out you can always get a Warn 10vr or 12vr and put a badlands synthetic line on it. Warns synthetic winch ropes are bucks deluxe. It saved me a lot of money and I ended up with a super heavy duty contacter that can be mounted in the elements.
 
If that winch option doesn't pan out you can always get a Warn 10vr or 12vr and put a badlands synthetic line on it. Warns synthetic winch ropes are bucks deluxe. It saved me a lot of money and I ended up with a super heavy duty contacter that can be mounted in the elements.
I would have gone with a Warn to start with, they have just heavier at ~71# vs. ~47# for the Ultra. I couldn't really find any US-based winch companies offering winches below 60#. But, I'm certainly taking a bit of a leap of faith here with this winch, and future parts support :). If it does crap out I'll end up putting a domestically-sourced winch on it.
 
I would have gone with a Warn to start with, they have just heavier at ~71# vs. ~47# for the Ultra. I couldn't really find any US-based winch companies offering winches below 60#. But, I'm certainly taking a bit of a leap of faith here with this winch, and future parts support :). If it does crap out I'll end up putting a domestically-sourced winch on it.
The last straw for me going Warn was a tough day on Wheeler Lake with two flop recoveries. One guys controller was unreachable but because the group mostly has Warns, someone else's controller worked. And their contactors are 👌
 
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Getting the Rev 3 hitch setup dialed for spring camping (it's a whopping 94F today - nuts and must be a record). Rev 1 was Ironman coils with a WDH, Rev 2 was Ironman coils with Firestone bags and no WDH. Now I'm on Dobinsons progressive/long-travel coils, with Firestone bags, and am re-using my old WDH. Everything is pretty close to dialed with 20 psi in the bags and a few links on the WDH chains. I might increase the angle of the WDH bars to get them level with the trailer tongue - but overall this feels pretty good and drives very stable/solid. Looking forward to driving it more and seeing how it does compared to my old setups.
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Took care of a few other minor maintenance items....including the cabin air filter. It was disgusting. I literally do not recall the last time I changed it, but it's been at least 18 months as the whirligigs are from the maple tree at our old house. I went ahead and ordered 3 new ones for the GX and 3 for Mrs. Rednexus' Highlander so they are on hand. From now I'll inspect at each oil change and replace if needed.
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