Recommendations for Refurbish my 04 LC (1 Viewer)

[Chrisek]

Hey guys, looking for a little insight. My 2004 LC now has 290,000 miles and going great. While I am the 5th owner, the previous 4 all services it at Toyota Dealers (have all the records) and it had it’s first known issue: Rack and pinion went out. I’ve put the last 100k on this guy and have decided to keep it so looking to do some functional refreshing. While the guys were replacing the rack I had them check the motor mounts, and was told they look great!

I understand the 100 series was designed to have a working lifespan of 25 years and/or 350,000 miles in dirt . I am expecting to need to start replacing rubber (mounts, seals, whatever) just due to age if nothing else (dry-rotting, use, etc) now that it is 18 years old.

Fortunately rust is not an issue.

Any specific suggestions on things to look at? Exhaust headers are fine at this point (did them on my 01 LX470 when I had it). Looking to do at least another 100k in this one and want to keep it up.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Chrisek]

Forgot to mention useage. Highway pounder and avalanche hunter (usually do a lap of the country in the winter looking for snow). No bumpers, big tires, etc. Slee told me on my prior 100 to keep it stock and am. Does great for me.

 

[excessive]

what symptoms led you to believe your steering rack is going out ?
I had a shop tell me my steering rack needed to be replaced on my 4runner, and that was nearly 10 years ago. I am still driving on that steering rack today, It ended up just being bushings.

 

[Bisho]

Most likely your lower control arm bushings and ball joints are shot, unless you’ve replaced them already. That and the sway bar bushings and end links (front and back) will make a noticeable improvement in handling.

 

[Chrisek]

The power steering fluid in the garage told me it was leaking.

Did the sway bar end links, will check out the sway bushings, and LCA bushings and balls on Wednesday.

If that is it, I might just look at replacing these for preventative maintenance.

Anything else to consider?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

If that is it, I might just look at replacing these for preventative maintenance.

That is not it. You need to start thinking all things rubber and plastic need replaced. Every coolant hose, every vac/evap hose, every bushing, window runs and belt moldings, door seals, etc.

 

[Bisho]

Also, if they’re still original, new upper control arms.

 

[Chrisek]

JunkCrzr89, that is exactly what I’m thinking, but just not seeing it. All rubber/plastic in engine bay is good. That is why I’m asking about any particular known things to inspect.

Bisho: what about the upper control arms need to be replaced? I have zero movement in wheels when off the ground. If there is an updated part or something then yes, I would like to get a set before Toyota USA runs out.

In general happy to replace anything as preventative, and right now it seems I need to pay extra attention to driveshaft as everyone seems to be replacing around 300k.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

JunkCrzr89, that is exactly what I’m thinking, but just not seeing it. All rubber/plastic in engine bay is good.

If it’s original, it ain’t good after 18 years.

 

[Chrisek]

If it’s original, it ain’t good after 18 years.

Understood. Again, I’m the 5th owner and purchase it at just under 190k. I’m not saying the rubbers in the engine bay are original. I am saying they are Toyota parts (thankfully) and in good condition.

 

[Bisho]

JunkCrzr89, that is exactly what I’m thinking, but just not seeing it. All rubber/plastic in engine bay is good. That is why I’m asking about any particular known things to inspect.

Bisho: what about the upper control arms need to be replaced? I have zero movement in wheels when off the ground. If there is an updated part or something then yes, I would like to get a set before Toyota USA runs out.

In general happy to replace anything as preventative, and right now it seems I need to pay extra attention to driveshaft as everyone seems to be replacing around 300k.

The rubber bushings are most likely timed out, and each one contributes a little to sloppiness in handling. Don’t get me wrong, it will never be a sports car, but it’s like a frog in heating water - you don’t really notice it over time. If you replace all of those wear parts you’ll notice an immediate improvement.

Then again, you can probably safely drive it another 100k miles before it becomes unsafe, so your call on when you pull the trigger. But, if I was “refurbishing,” that’s where I’d start. Then I’d go after the rubber door and window seals before they can’t be had anymore. Now, if your rig was garage kept and climate controlled, they may be good as new and it’s a mute point.

 

[Bisho]

The rubber bushings are most likely timed out, and each one contributes a little to sloppiness in handling. Don’t get me wrong, it will never be a sports car, but it’s like a frog in heating water - you don’t really notice it over time. If you replace all of those wear parts you’ll notice an immediate improvement.

Then again, you can probably safely drive it another 100k miles before it becomes unsafe, so your call on when you pull the trigger. But, if I was “refurbishing,” that’s where I’d start. Then I’d go after the rubber door and window seals before they can’t be had anymore. Now, if your rig was garage kept and climate controlled, they may be good as new and it’s a mute point.

And the rubber hoses and vacuum lines @JunkCrzr89 mentioned.

 

[Chrisek]

As an update, got under it Wednesday (leaving it on the ground) and shook everything. Rear sway endlinks were trashed (adding to that clunk). Ordered those parts and should be picking them up today. Hopefully replacing tonight or tomorrow morning (time allowing) otherwise Tuesday. Put the car on jacks at that time and shake everything again and see what I see.

 

[BigBen97]

I just ordered all the rubber bits I could figure out from the online diagrams as part of the recent sale(Partsouq is good for this as you can enter your VIN). The big ones are going to be the upper and lower control arms, these I'll be checking when I do my CV boots. Getting under it and looking to see what is worn out and then translating that into a part number is going to be the most fruitful, although time consuming. I created a spreadsheet so I could populate it over time and also track costs (Partsouq vs. others) and know when a deal should be taken. I have one torn CV boot so replacing all of those and will see if they remain in good condition.

 

[Chrisek]

Finally got under it to replace the endlinks on the rear sway and took a good look at the bushing on the rear control arms. While I could inspect the axle side (all 4 have circular cracks) the body sides are all too shrouded. Going to assume all are bad and work on those and the panhard. At this point I think it is safe to say I will replace the front LCA and UCA’s as well.

 

[Chrisek]

Got the 4 control arms for the rear axle and the pan hard. Dropped it off at the dealer to do that and the alignment. Should get it back in a couple days (no appointment). Just took it on a 1,000 mile day trip so am familiar with how it currently drives and looking forward to seeing the difference.

 

[Chrisek]

As an update, been driving it for a week after getting the rear arms replaced. In particular there is no more clunking back there. I think the axle was rotating within the slop of the blown bushings on both ends of each arm.

The second aspect is difficult to explain other than to say the rear is “quieter” in movement. As in it is obviously not moving as much as before. More controlled. More confident. Not sure which arms did what, but now looking forward to handling the front end.

 

[Chrisek]

Well Bisho and jnkcrzr89, you were very much correct. Every single bushing has at least been dry-rotted/cracked. The most destroyed award goes to the front front diff mount (which was so hammered it was actually deformed 1/4”).
2nd place goes to the lower control arm bushings which were destroyed.
Now that these have all been replaced, the steering precision has vastly improved, as one of you two mentioned earlier. Not saying this now an all-conquering cone dodger (it rides OEM 16” runs from my 01 LX470), I mean it is now more obvious where each wheel is. It rides great and it is now just more quiet a ride (less clanking, etc) .
Timing turned out great as some friends have come in to mainland USA to visit family and they are borrowing it until early next year. So there won’t be any updates for a minute.
There are still a couple of groups of refurbishing to go:
1. Brake lines, rear brake pads, e-brake pads and springs (rebuild).
2. Body mounts.
3. Engine/trans/center diff mounts
4. All coolant and rubber A/C lines and radiator pads.
5. Various body seals.

Anything else I should consider?

 

[BnvS]

I just ordered all the rubber bits I could figure out from the online diagrams as part of the recent sale(Partsouq is good for this as you can enter your VIN). The big ones are going to be the upper and lower control arms, these I'll be checking when I do my CV boots. Getting under it and looking to see what is worn out and then translating that into a part number is going to be the most fruitful, although time consuming. I created a spreadsheet so I could populate it over time and also track costs (Partsouq vs. others) and know when a deal should be taken. I have one torn CV boot so replacing all of those and will see if they remain in good condition.

Hey @BigBen97 share the parts list please when you can. So we all don't have to start from the bottom.

Any 200k+ LC/LX need these parts to work well and have lower clunking from down under fixed or at least reduced.

 

[Couvi]

Forgot to mention useage. Highway pounder and avalanche hunter (usually do a lap of the country in the winter looking for snow). No bumpers, big tires, etc. Slee told me on my prior 100 to keep it stock and am. Does great for me.

Can you elaborate on Slee saying to keep it stock? Were they just stating that the 100 series is a very capable in stock form? Thanks.