Receiver Hitch Mod (1 Viewer)

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I have a hitch bolted up to mine, but its a temporary solution for anyone who does more than casual off-roading because it really kills your departure angle.

Hmm this I can understand, but if you use the 80 for anything where you have to worry about having a hitch 5" rearward of the crossmember compromising your departure angle, I dont think you should be towing with it, more like having it towed by another vehicle?
 
I have gone straight down some fairly high ledges where I landed on the receiver with a noticeable bang. I was glad it was there.

I'm thinking that many situations where you'd be scraping/teethering on the receiver alone could be dealt fairly easily with some traction upfront.

So, I didn't mind having a receiver back there. Armor on the cheap.
 
Same bang here. Just hated when it felt like that was the only thing hanging me up.

OFF it goes.
 
Hey-my stock hitch is my low budget rear rock slider....:hillbilly:

Mine too, until I can afford another solution ($2k for a rear bumper/tire holder is almost as much as I paid for the LC to start with).
 
Now that is ready to do work! Much better. That is almost exactly how the Slee is mounted up.
 
Finished product:
IMG_8051_zps1ba76848.jpg


IMG_8052_zps82b4ed90.jpg
 
I like that you tied it into the frame rails in the pictures in your last posts. The original design and initial setup is pretty much just tied into the rear crossmember/bumper support. Even though those 4 bolt holes can bolt up an OEM pintle hitch or receiver I wouldn't trust it. IMHO, its a Class 1 receiver from the factory. Many people applauded your efforts initially, but remember your just tying into the rear bumper/crossmember support and not the heavier gauge metal frame rails.

The Class 3 receivers that are on most 80's are made up of a much heavier steal and tie into the frame with 6-8 even more bolts.

Just wanted to post here and Applaud you for adding more support and maybe educate a few and tell a little story of My bumper experience.

Dumb Redneck move by Mikesta.

  • Free 10,000 lb forklift
  • 1978 Ford F150 (1/2 ton or 3/4 ton truck)
  • 2000lb trailer
  • 10'000 lb rated straps (not chains)
  • Bumper 2" ball (ATTENTION HERE)
  • Shorts / T-shirt in a Pinapple express in November

Quick retrieval of a 10,000lb forklift so didn't dress warm and wanted to be first to get it.

We loaded the forklift with another forllift on the trailer. I drove it 30mph (thats as fast as I could go). I'm loaded down with a truck weighing maybe 2 tons, towing 6, not smart. My hitch was a bumper hitch with a reinforced bumper crossmember to support it (factory). Chains of course.

Red light way up ahead, brake lights getting closer.... tap the brakes... fishtails... 2 options, hit the car in front of me or ditch it. I ditched it. Weight of trailer, forklift jacknife the rig, forklift breaks straps, forklift comes forward, hits front of trailer which rips the ball off the bumper hitch, which cracked the rear cross support welds holding the bumper on. Chains kept the trailer close. Forklift and trailer hit rear quarter panel of truck. Took down a huge highway sign too

I used to be Saefty 3rd. Now its first. It could have been a lot worse than a $690 tow bill... if I was going faster or decided to hit the car or didn't have the option to hit the ditch, my foolishness could have meant someone else's life.

All this to say, there is a reason why aftermarket class 3 hitches are bolted to the frame (even on older trucks built with better steel).

If you are going to Mod a Hitch make sure that it follows that protocol and tie it into the frame rails, the rear bumper support is mainly that... a bumper support.

I tell my story of foolishness to hopefully help others understand I have first hand experience and have since done my homework when it comes to hitches.

I'd give yours a 2.5 rating now over the 1 initially, but I'm only experienced, not an expert.

http://www.autoanything.com/towing/how-to-select-the-right-hitch-class.aspx
 

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