Rebuilt engine assembly

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Midgainc

Midgainc

10 Year
Joined
May 26, 2013
Threads
30
Messages
831
Location
Bolingbroke, Georgia
I am glad to say that the time has come to reassemble my engine. Lambcrusher gave me good advice on the assembly in a quote on my thread. My questions are to all that can give advice:

What are some things that I need to triple check they are done right on the re-assembly. This is my first time in a heavy duty Toyota engine (which actually looks 90% like a Chevy in line 6.) I want to do this right the first time.

I am going to drill out the soft plug on the head and tap for a socket head screw. I am replacing the three flat top tapered screws that screw into the timing backplate. I hate them. Any suggestions on replacements? flat head socket screw?

I am using an OEM gasket kit.

I have the gears already pressed on the crank and cam. I have the pistons mounted on the rods.

I will be deciding what to do about oil pump in the next few days. Delancy sent a reported "new" one, and I have my old one, which I refuse to use.

I would post photos of my engine but it is still wrapped up from the machine shop. Next week I will unwrap and photograph the beautiful cylinders!
 
Think there's an OE torx screw replacement for the timing cover.

Will be back with part number.

Sent a "new" and used. Surely out if the three, a good one can be determined.

By the way, have you received yet?

Edited: Torx Screws 90149-10001
 
Preliminary, and you may already be aware if the process, but regurgitating what I've been told twice, by two different esteemed LC engine builders in the last two days.

Most important time is the first thirty seconds after the first fire.

I'm pretty certain you've got a handle on it, but if for whatever reason you'd like to initialize with a known tuned carb, let me know and I won't tear this one apart until after you fire.
 
I would agree the first thirty seconds are critical, especially verifying proper lubrication. I pre oil using a drill and a modified distributor to make sure oil is flowing. I am not sure if necessary or possible with this engine. I will read and re-read the FSM that I downloaded from you. I only want to do this once. I do enjoy watching the project move along, but I do grow weary at times and would like to go for a ride. I hope to hear this thing run in about a month or so after a 20 year hiatus!
 
Midgainc said:
What are some things that I need to triple check they are done right on the re-assembly.
Click to expand...

Oil squirter. Don't tighten it all the way down. Just turn it in finger tight, point the hole between the two gears and peen it so it won't unscrew.

Front timing cover. Don't bolt it down until after the front pulley is torqued down pretty tight. Allow the front oil seal to float around the pulley, then tighten the cover.
 
I have a simple question:

What is the bolt size connecting the bell housing to the block?

I need longer bolts than the OEM bolts to hitch up the block to my engine stand. I need a 14 mm x about 70mm, but what pitch. Ace had 14mm nuts in 2.0 and 1.5 and neither would work. Is it a 1.25?
 
Here is what it looks like from the link above.

However...my bolt holes, I a, certain that mine are 14mm in diameter. Also, a 1.75 pitch nut would not screw on my transmission bolts...I am going to double check.

image.webp
 
See photo. Where does this go in relation to the timing cover, crankshaft and harmonic balancer? I cannot remmeber when I disassembled it where it went. I do know that it cannot go on the outside of the harmonic balancer and it cannot go in between the balancer and the timing cover.....so.....where does it go? Between the gear and the timing cover and eventually sandwiched between the pulley and the gear?

HARMONIC_BALANCER_F.5.webp


Crankshaft slinger.webp
 
It is the slinger, indeed. p/n 13435 on the diagram. I am not sure where it goes, but I presume inside of the timing cover. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
Yes, oil slinger is inside the timing cover...
 
Does it just slide up next to the timing gear, then you install the timing cover and then slide the harmonic balancer in snug? If so, then the pulley is the only thing that keeps the slinger from rattling around inside the cover? I only want to do this once! Thanks.
 
Ok, now for the fun stuff. Today I put on the harmonic balancer. Had to bake in the oven at 170 degrees for 2 hours and it tapped on easy enough. Problem now, is I tightened the nut as tight as I could get it and now the pulley is in further than my parts rig, approx 4 -7/8 " from block. Parts rig is 5-1/8. I guess tomorrow I will pull it out an eight or so. The water pump has been a pain. The flange that is pressed in is thicker and sticks out further 6-1/4 than the old one. I heated it up and tapped on further, but it still needs to go another 1/4" or so.
 
Make sure your new waterpump flange is the same as your old waterpump flange...
 
Ha! Late yesterday, I figured that the one that came with the new pump is too thick, so I dropped pump off today at mechanics shop to remove new flange and press on the old one to about 50/1000 ths of the bearing. It will then be aligned with the crank pulley and alternator. What a pain. Everytime I feel like I have conquered one army, another rears its ugly head!
 
Midgainc said:
Ha! Late yesterday, I figured that the one that came with the new pump is too thick,
Click to expand...


Probably had a different bolt pattern too, good you changed it now...
 
Somebody put in the engine rebuilding section to always replace pressure plate bolts with new 10.9 bolts. I broke one off in the flywheel today and it was barely run up. Spend the $5 at a local fastener house and save yourself the worry of this happening to you. I wish someone had of told me!
 
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