I am in the process of tearing apart my 1985 solid axle, prepping for sas. I have a couple questions. For the vented rotors that come with the trail gear kit, should I order the kit from marlin to rebuild it? They have original japanese bearings while trail gear seems to have cheap china bearings. And also, where is the best place to order the wheel studs for the rotor? Thank you all for the help so far on the million other questions I have asked.
rebuilding 1985 front axle need help
- Thread starter yotayes88
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #3
I was aslo wondering how many shims should be between the steering arm and the knuckle on the passanger side? On mine there was only one. And one the bottom of the knuckle there is one more. Nothing seems to even hook up on the bottom. Just 4 nuts just like the topside. With a shim underneath and a bearing inside?
Save the shims that came out and put them back just the way you found them. You can shim it yourself, but that is a rather involved process. Generally if you put it back together just the way it came apart you will be good.
I have an 83 front that is sitting in my garage and it came to me in pieces, I am not looking forward to shimming the knuckles when I try to reassemble it....
I have an 83 front that is sitting in my garage and it came to me in pieces, I am not looking forward to shimming the knuckles when I try to reassemble it....
Unless they are damaged or suspect then you should be able to re-use them.
- Thread starter
- #8
Thank you. I have read in multiple different sites that u typically reuse the stock shims. But I've been searching for a while and just connot seem to find an answer to my completely ridiculous question lol. But here it goes, I pulled the passanger side knuckle to go thru it, and I noticed there is only one shim on the top side of the knuckle. And one on the bottom cap. Is there supposed to be more? Also, how do I get the bearing off of the bottom cap on the knuckle? I looked thru my chiltons manual, and it doesn't say how to remove it. Am I missing something here? Thanks for all the help guys
I think I used a small bearing separator and got up under the cage last time I did them. If you can get it to move a little bit, tighten it down and get under the journal.
Edit: In a press of course.
Edit: In a press of course.
As many have said, it varies directly from Toyota. Redo what was on there, but there is a possibility that someone messed it up at some point in it's life.
I'm going to put this delicately....
The shims that should be on a knuckle (both top and bottom) are determined through the use of an SST. There are multiple threads about using the Knuckle Centering Tool SST, and about rebuilding the knuckles in general. There are also detailed instructions in the FSM.
If you have not taken the time to understand the knuckle rebuild, or how to do it through the FSM, you have no choice but to assume that whomever had it apart before you did it correctly and thus that the shims are correct for your axle and knuckle. You should therefor duplicate what you take apart. Sometimes it's one shim, sometimes its more. The shims vary in thickness, so make sure you mic out the removed shim (since I'm guessing you damaged it a bit removing everything), and match it to a new shim of the same thickness. Pay close attention when you reassemble it to make sure that the pre-loads are correct, because if they aren't--your shims aren't right. And if they aren't correct in your case, then it's time to start looking for someone with an SST you can borrow, or buy one (they are about $150 IIRC, and take a couple weeks or months from Toyota OPC).
[quote\]Also, how do I get the bearing off of the bottom cap on the knuckle? I looked thru my chiltons manual, and it doesn't say how to remove it. Am I missing something here? Thanks for all the help guys[/QUOTE]
The same way you remove any bearing that is stuck on a spindle. The bearing itself isn't important, because if it's stuck on there it was likely no good anyway. You can use a bearing separator (what I do), but some people cut a small slit in the bearing itself (be REAL careful not to get into the bottom cap spindle) to relieve the clamping pressure, and others heat the bearing until it slides off the cap spindle. Some combination of those may be necessary
Good luck!
Dan
- Thread starter
- #13
When I removed the shims, they were undamaged, as I was VERY carefull removing them. This is my first time rebuilding a solid axle, but it is way more straight forward then the ifs I've been having to fix for years lol.
Use quality bearings and get a complete rebuild kit. I also HIGHLY recommend putting in new knuckle and hub studs during the rebuild (they break even under light wheeling).
As far as getting off the bottom bearing: if the top one is off, put a small diameter ( ~7/16") brass drift through the top bearing hold and center it over the center pin on the lower cap. Hit with a hammer and it always pops right out
As far as getting off the bottom bearing: if the top one is off, put a small diameter ( ~7/16") brass drift through the top bearing hold and center it over the center pin on the lower cap. Hit with a hammer and it always pops right out
- Thread starter
- #15
Thanks everyone for the help in a few of my threads. I was also wondering if the backing plate eliminator is a good investment. It makes the axle look very clean, and I really like the look for some odd reason. I think its under 30 bucks. But the question I have is since I will be in a lot of mud, should I just keep the dust cover? Or will the backing plate eliminator be ok in the mud?
In all honesty, you get the same thing by cutting the center out of your current dust covers. I wouldn't waste money on the eliminators when you can make your own for less than the cost of a cutting disk.
I've been running mine directly off caliper for years without a single issue.
If you cut the existing cover, you may be able to cut it so that there is still some support by leaving the brace that supports where the hard line and soft line meets.
If you cut the existing cover, you may be able to cut it so that there is still some support by leaving the brace that supports where the hard line and soft line meets.
R
rustbucket4wd
Guest
I would keep the backing plate and slot the brake line mount so you wont have to disconnect the line when you need to remove the caliper. Or cut up yours if you dont want it, i wouldnt pay for something like that. The backing keeps brake dust off your axle and road stuff off your rotors so i like them.