rebuild time (torkr cam?)
- Thread starter HeavyMetalViking
- Start date
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If it were me and I had the money I'd replace everything I could afford now
rather than having to do it again later. No sense tearing it apart twice.
rather than having to do it again later. No sense tearing it apart twice.
kyle, ive replaced valves and guides before, the rocker arms are almost never in need of replacing on those things, but if yours are we've got a million of em, lemme know what you wanna do and swing up to malden some time with a head and we can get her soothe and fit.
Lane I totally forgot about that valve cover, if you still want/need it pm me your info one more time, and ill mail it out.
Lane I totally forgot about that valve cover, if you still want/need it pm me your info one more time, and ill mail it out.
- Thread starter
- #5
I'm gonna get the head machined, not that I don't trust you or Nat but I'm gonna go somewhere pro for this one... me and cicale are gonna be taking the head apart tomorrow
Where's a good place to get a headgasket kit? I heard you can get them for $80, toyota sells them for $142 plus tax, NO THANKS!
Using a pro? then whats cicale doing there?
Are you doing this at mikes house? I wouldnt bother taking the valves out or replacing them unless it sucked water and bent one. I have done a bunch of HG's and rebuilds and never had to rebuild a head, just have it planed, magnafluxed and cleaned out. The machine shop will disasemble and then re-asemble if you want them to. What ever cam you get, as long as you tell them your using stock valves will work with the old valves.
I told ya to go to Orleans auto and use my discount and pay cash. DUH.
It will be either a felpro or a Conteco (sp?) had god luck with both.
[QUOTE="N8";
Lane I totally forgot about that valve cover, if you still want/need it pm me your info one more time, and ill mail it out.[/QUOTE]
PM'd you
Lane I totally forgot about that valve cover, if you still want/need it pm me your info one more time, and ill mail it out.[/QUOTE]
PM'd you
- Thread starter
- #10
When you taking your own advice?
ACTUALLY he got an 80, and the damn thing got lifted with 35"s an ARB bumper in about a week.
I hate you Nat.
I know I'm alone of this but I'll give you my take on it just the same. I don't mill aluminum OHC heads. What doesn't come out with the torquing is made up with expansion. The problem is when you mill the head the cam timing changes and if there was a warp in it and you take that out then the bearing surfaces for the cams are now off. I did my 80 over 110k miles ago and just R&R'd the gasket and things have been fine. That head is over 30" long.
If you blew the gasket and didn't overheat the engine I'd hand lap the valves to check there sealing surface and if that looked good I'd just slap in the gasket and be on my way.
Not saying it's right and how it should be done it's just how I would handle it.
If you blew the gasket and didn't overheat the engine I'd hand lap the valves to check there sealing surface and if that looked good I'd just slap in the gasket and be on my way.
Not saying it's right and how it should be done it's just how I would handle it.
My input:
I did my HG 3 summers ago purely as preventive maintenance. I was just about to hit the 200K mark, I was due for a timing chain (bad rattle at startup), and I figured the engine deserved it.
* I fould a VERY slight warpage in the head when I removed it. I talked to Tim @ DOA about the timing concern that Landtank mentions, and he said that with the 22R engine you can mill off about 15 thou before it will effect the timing. If you have to take off more than that, you can fix the timing with an adjustable cam gear, or a thicker HG. I had the head decked about 10 thou.
* I bought that exact cam from engnbldr. Honestly, I can't tell a bit of difference from stock. Now I wish I had gone with DOA's RV cam, or the LC "Street Performer".
* I also replaced all my valves and springs with slightly oversized SS ones from engnbldr. The machine shop lapped and installed them.
* I urge you to reconsider the OEM gasket set. I've used the Felpro sets, and they are OK but they tend to give you more gaskets than you need, and there will be some missing. The OEM sets are really nice, complete, all the gaskets fit perfectly, they include valve stem seals and O-rings for the injectors.
* I sent my injectors out to RC Engineering to be balanced and cleaned. They were disgusting when I pulled them out, they came back looking brand new.
* I used ARP head studs when re-assembling. Very nice stuff. If the engine is still in the truck, you need to leave the back 2 studs out to get the head stabbed on, and you have to do some minor grinding on the underside of the valve cover to get it back on.
* I highly recommend you drill out and Helicoil all the exhaust stud holes in the head. It really sucks to go thru all the work to R&R the HG, get it all back together, then strip out one of those holes when torquing down the exhaust manifold. They strip way too easily, and it's always the very back one that's impossible to reach and fix. You can do it yourself with a kit from NAPA, all you need is a drill press. And throw away all the old rusty studs and nuts, go get new ones from Toyota. It's a small expense.
* I installed DOA metal chain guides. Very nice. No more flimsy plastic guides for me. But I bought a new OEM tensioner. Absolutely no rattle now at startup.
Good luck!
I did my HG 3 summers ago purely as preventive maintenance. I was just about to hit the 200K mark, I was due for a timing chain (bad rattle at startup), and I figured the engine deserved it.
* I fould a VERY slight warpage in the head when I removed it. I talked to Tim @ DOA about the timing concern that Landtank mentions, and he said that with the 22R engine you can mill off about 15 thou before it will effect the timing. If you have to take off more than that, you can fix the timing with an adjustable cam gear, or a thicker HG. I had the head decked about 10 thou.
* I bought that exact cam from engnbldr. Honestly, I can't tell a bit of difference from stock. Now I wish I had gone with DOA's RV cam, or the LC "Street Performer".
* I also replaced all my valves and springs with slightly oversized SS ones from engnbldr. The machine shop lapped and installed them.
* I urge you to reconsider the OEM gasket set. I've used the Felpro sets, and they are OK but they tend to give you more gaskets than you need, and there will be some missing. The OEM sets are really nice, complete, all the gaskets fit perfectly, they include valve stem seals and O-rings for the injectors.
* I sent my injectors out to RC Engineering to be balanced and cleaned. They were disgusting when I pulled them out, they came back looking brand new.
* I used ARP head studs when re-assembling. Very nice stuff. If the engine is still in the truck, you need to leave the back 2 studs out to get the head stabbed on, and you have to do some minor grinding on the underside of the valve cover to get it back on.
* I highly recommend you drill out and Helicoil all the exhaust stud holes in the head. It really sucks to go thru all the work to R&R the HG, get it all back together, then strip out one of those holes when torquing down the exhaust manifold. They strip way too easily, and it's always the very back one that's impossible to reach and fix. You can do it yourself with a kit from NAPA, all you need is a drill press. And throw away all the old rusty studs and nuts, go get new ones from Toyota. It's a small expense.
* I installed DOA metal chain guides. Very nice. No more flimsy plastic guides for me. But I bought a new OEM tensioner. Absolutely no rattle now at startup.
Good luck!
Sporin
Site Addict
This whole conversation is bringing back horrible, repressed memories from my stupid "new engine" saga.
Other than dropping $800 trying to stop the minor oil leak on the timing chain cover (still leaks)
it's been a good engine Dave. Runs well, nice and quiet.
Kyle if you call Cruiser Dan at American Toyota on Mud, you might be surprised at the price of OEM
Gasket set. Did you check out Wellesly Toyota and the YT discount?
Lane
Sporin
Site Addict
Oh I know, THAT one is great, it's other one I had put in first that beat my wallet to a leathery pulp.
i will ask at Wellesley Toyota tomorrow if you want kyle i have to go back and pick up some parts
i just spent $401 at Wellesley Toyota i did the math if i did not use our discount there it would have been $ 663 that $20 a year club fee saved me $262
lane im going to send you a valve cover and get that dvd back to you sorry i totally for got to mail it back i have been suck a blond these past 2 months
- Thread starter
- #17
Unfortunately it got quite overheated, this was all a result of my radiator crapping out on the highway and me not noticing the heat gauge climbing up.
Thanks for all the advice, I'll take all of it into consideration.
I'm very strapped for cash as usual and need to pay my tuition myself this semester, so spending upwards of $500 for the cam (already ordered), gaskets (already bought), cleaning and milling, timing chain, also a clutch, isn't exactly in my budget right now. I'm waiting on a guy with a supposed recently rebuild 22RE with 22,000 on it for $100 and I'll give him the bottom half of my engine.
Bummer, I got my off road beach permit for the summer and haven't gotten a chance to use it once!!
I have a straight edge if you want to read the flatness of that head and maybe feel good about not machining it.
- Thread starter
- #19
Got it running! What a stupid rebuild. Upon discovering that we had forgotten to install one of the splines into the oil pump (it was a late night), we eliminated the smoke coming out of the engine, replaced a coolant line that was furiously leaking everywhere, we finally got it running OK. Now she just needs to be timed and it looks like I could use a new alternator.
Keeping my fingers crossed that nothing else comes up! FG is sounding too good this year to miss out on.
Keeping my fingers crossed that nothing else comes up! FG is sounding too good this year to miss out on.
good to hear that you got it running again!