Rear window "channel sub-assembly" replacement/fix? (1 Viewer)

[FJ4FUN]

Hello All, The channel sub-assy and filler on my rear windows has creeped forward on the lower edge of the glass about an inch over time and I can only lower the windows about 4" before the regulator wheel extends beyond the track causing the window to fall all the way down into the door. I'm planning to replace all the window guides/seals and the channel sub-assys w/filler and the exterior belt moldings.

My question is, do I have to pull the window glass to replace the channel sub-assy's / fillers? if so, how is this done? If not, how is this done? I've located a variety of posts regarding the seal replacement but none specific to replacing or adjusting the channel sub-assy.

 

[Kernal]

Yes, the glass has to come out.

You have to remove the glass/channel from the regulator by removing the two bolts that hold the channel to the window regulator. Then using a plastic hammer of some sort to strike the channel to pop it off the glass.

To install a new channel and filler on the glass, IIRC, you first put the filler
over the glass where you want it, then using a dead blow hammer strike
the channel on one end to get it started down onto the edge of the glass
(over the filler), then keep striking the channel down it's length until it's
snug on the glass.

You really won't know what else needs to be done until you get inside the door cavity and check for damage:

Here's a link to a thread when I did my left front window some years ago:

Door apart for regulator replacement (quick help please)

So my RF door glass felt loose and I thought for sure it was the regulator, so I ordered one up along with a new weatherstrip seal :meh: Turns out the regulator itself was fine and the glass had slipped out of the rail :doh: Now, my glass guy had replaced the window back when...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Rookie2]

I’m having this same issue with the window coming of the channel periodically. I was trying to figure out if there’s another way to fix this without replacing a bunch of stuff. Motor works fine.

 

[Kernal]

Only way to fix it (correctly) is to carefully remove the door panel; do not yank and pull on the door panel to remove it, first remove the screws holding the handle, door switch, courtesy light etc, then when you get to the plastic rivets, pop them one at a time using the correct upholstery tool and be sure to get the rivets at the very top.

Then do NOT just yank out on the panel; it is sorta pinched at the top by the window glass and the top of the door, so you have to first push or slightly bump it almost straight UP to release it from the door/window.\

The rounded top of the door card is formed from white plastic under the vinyl, so if you yank on it you can break that plastic.

It's best to peel back the vinyl vapor barrier at least partially, then when you're all done put it back using the butyl rubber that's still there. Use more butyl rubber as needed to stick it back in place.

Never leave the vapor barrier off or leave any open holes in it; water can get into the cabin and will also damage the backside of the door panel which is made out of pressed wood fibers (Masonite), which is easily damaged by water exposure.

 

[GeoRoss]

On day 2 of a 2 week family camping trip one of the rear door windows slipped in the channel and then fell down. I popped the door card and moved the window back to where it belonged in the channel. I got it back in the regulator and working perfectly. Within a day it slipped again, the girls back then were all under 10 and worked the window like it was a slot machine so that probably didn't help things. So, the next stop I pop the door card off again, move the window back where it belongs in the channel. I got it all aligned and working thinking I was going to have to ban using the window for the rest of the trip. I'm looking at my tool bag before closing up the door card and see my tube of silicon sealant. What the hell, I caulked the window to the channel with it. I thought I would deal with it more properly when we got home. It worked perfectly the rest of the trip. That was 10 or 12 years ago and it hasn't popped out again.

 

[FJ4FUN]

Only way to fix it (correctly) is to carefully remove the door panel; do not yank and pull on the door panel to remove it, first remove the screws holding the handle, door switch, courtesy light etc, then when you get to the plastic rivets, pop them one at a time using the correct upholtery tool and be sure to get the rivets at the very top.

Then do NOT just yank out on the panel; it is sorta pinched at the top by the window glass and the top of the door, so you have to first push or slightly bump it almost straight UP to release it from the door/window.\

The rounded top of the door card is formed from white plastic under the vinyl, so if you yank on it you can break that plastic.

It's best to peel back the vinyl vapor barrier at least partially, then when you're all done put it back using the butyl rubber that's still there. Use more butyl rubber as needed to stick it back in place.

Never leave the vapor barrier off or leave any open holes in it; water can get into the cabin and will also damage the backside of the door panel which is made out of pressed wood fibers (Masonite), which is easily damaged by water exposure.

Thanks Kernal! How do you get the glass out of the door??? Does the exterior belt moulding have to come out as well?