Rear spring shackle angle and springs HELP :)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

sledge916

Media Partner
Joined
Jan 22, 2003
Threads
276
Messages
1,581
Location
flagstaff, Az , 86004
Website
www.adventuredriven.com
Got a 84 FJ60 and it rides like a jack hammer, we just got it and are trying to figure out what the PO did. It has a 2.5 OME lift with 1 add a leaf per spring pack in the back. truck has sliders and rear tire carrier, front bumper with winch etc.

PO installed 3 inch body lift.

We are not even sure these are 60 springs as they look kinda short in length.

We added the MAN-A-Free shackles front and back. Front is 1 3/4 longer than stock, the back is 3 inches longer than stock.

The angle of the shackles look awful, and was considering moving the perch to get the angle better thus improving the ride quality.


We are also very interested in the Chevy springs from a 3/4 ton truck I have seen here on MUDD. Looks like we could do a SOA just in the back and leave the front SUA.
If we went this route I would be concerned about the following things
1. Where to mount the shocks to the axel/ frame(body)
2. Axel wrap, as this truck has a 495HP LS1 under the hood.

Here are some photos of the truck, lets here your ideas please.

Thanks
Sethro


82d4bf1d.jpg



880dfbb9.jpg



a93659e0.jpg



ea75f182.jpg



8b978448.jpg
 
Nice truck!! that thing was on Craigslist FOREVER!!!!!

cool to see someone finally picked it up

good luck with your suspension fix.
 
Remove the add a leaves (and maybe an extra leaf) and hope the springs start to break in alittle bit?

This may seem alittle odd as well but how many psi are you running in the tyres? That can definatly make the ride quality all that more bearable. The coopers might like around 30 psi better.
 
I'd move your front hangers back and rears forward about 4"s (just a guess), that would get you a better angle hence a softer ride plus some added travel. Also bring it down a little bit as it looks a little tall.

Drill out the rivots and grind the welds, relocate and throw some bolts in old rivot holes and re-weld. or you could buy some new hangers, either way it's gonna be your best bet.

Sweet lookin ride by the way, details?

edit: just went back and re-read the rear chevy SOA business, don't do that. do this above^^^ unless you want to run bigger tires and don't want to cut those pretty fenders.
 
I'd move your front hangers back and rears forward about 4"s (just a guess), that would get you a better angle hence a softer ride plus some added travel. Also bring it down a little bit as it looks a little tall.

Drill out the rivots and grind the welds, relocate and throw some bolts in old rivot holes and re-weld. or you could buy some new hangers, either way it's gonna be your best bet.

Sweet lookin ride by the way, details?

edit: just went back and re-read the rear chevy SOA business, don't do that. do this above^^^ unless you want to run bigger tires and don't want to cut those pretty fenders.

I'll second that vote. Been there, done that to use a trite cliche, but that is the best solution; move those shackle hangers in-board about 1.5 to 2 inches and lose the add a leaf, the OME's are stout enough for anything without that.
 
cool, thanks for all the input, I also thought moving the perches would be the first choice, looks like I have some welding to do, whats the best way to get those rivits out of the spring hanger?? Any tips??

And checked tire pressure, they were at 35 PSI, dropped them down to 30 PSI and that helped. :)

Thanks
Sethro
 
for those rivets, an air chisel works like a hot dang. thats all i've used for rivets . cheers
 
for those rivets, an air chisel works like a hot dang. thats all i've used for rivets . cheers

yup, got one, that will make life easier

need ear plugs and thick gloves for sure, mine seems like it will rattle the whole truck when that thing is going.

Sethro
 
Before you start cutting and welding I would do some more investigating. I have been dealing with trying to get my FJ60's alcans "tuned" for a while and have learned alot from the mud community. I agree with removing the add a leaves and trying that. Next I would loosen the shackles and make sure there is plenty of grease on the sides of the bushings where they contact the plates, I put MAF shackles on mine without enough grease and it rode really stiff. After that try taking off the shocks and taking it for a short drive, the shocks may be valved too stiff for your combination, I am running Bilstein 5125's. Finally about your rear shackle length, to me they look way too long, measure from center to center of the bolts on the frame for the shackle and spring hangers, now lay the tape measure on the spring and measure the actuall length of the main leaf, bolt center to bolt center, now compare the two numbers. The spring number should be bigger. As long as your shackle length center to center is larger than the difference of your previous measurments by at least about 1/2 - 1 inch you should be fine (mine are 1.5 because that is what I had). I didn't intend to write a novel but it is good info.
 
Before you start cutting and welding I would do some more investigating. I have been dealing with trying to get my FJ60's alcans "tuned" for a while and have learned alot from the mud community. I agree with removing the add a leaves and trying that. Next I would loosen the shackles and make sure there is plenty of grease on the sides of the bushings where they contact the plates, I put MAF shackles on mine without enough grease and it rode really stiff. After that try taking off the shocks and taking it for a short drive, the shocks may be valved too stiff for your combination, I am running Bilstein 5125's. Finally about your rear shackle length, to me they look way too long, measure from center to center of the bolts on the frame for the shackle and spring hangers, now lay the tape measure on the spring and measure the actuall length of the main leaf, bolt center to bolt center, now compare the two numbers. The spring number should be bigger. As long as your shackle length center to center is larger than the difference of your previous measurments by at least about 1/2 - 1 inch you should be fine (mine are 1.5 because that is what I had). I didn't intend to write a novel but it is good info.

great info, I don't mind novels at all, very good info indeed, I will try this

thanks
Sethro
 
While you are at it inspect the frame around the front hanger for the rear springs for rust, check the hole on the side of the frame in front of the rear tire to see if the frame is full of the dirt that rusts the frame from the inside out. My hangers nearly ripped of the frame on the first day of a 3 day wheeling trip in eastern Oregon 150 miles from home.
 
Unloaded you should have some angle in the shackles. They should not be vertical unless you like the abuse. I run OMEs and I have since 1996; 200,000 miles worth. It wasn't too long into this that I cut the shackle mounts and moved them inboard in combination with a longer shackle. It rides so much better this way.
 
shackle angle?

Hey Fellas!
Wha would proper shackle angle be? How far would you move those inboard on a rig like this one? Is there any such thing as a sweet spot?
 
Ideal shackle angle is actually pretty close to this: \

you want it raked back maybe 20-30 degrees
 
Here's the rust mobile with 200,000 miles on the OMEs. Those mounts were cut off and re-welded in that position. BTW, that short AAL you have is making your rig ride like somebody filled the shock tubes with sand. The faster those go away, the happier you will be.
001.jpg
 
Last edited:
Here's the rust mobile with 200,000 miles on the OMEs. Those mounts were cut off and re-welded in that position. BTW, that short AAL you have is making your rig ride like somebody filled the shock tubes with sand. The faster those go away, the happier you will be.


sorry for the hijack....
lehiguy,
wheres my K & N you always promise me?:flipoff2:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom