Rear Spoiler Removal Info

[CharlieS]

I had to pull my rear spoiler off the car to run wires and install dust lights, so I figured I'd post some info.

This is on a '16 Land Cruiser, and I've never removed it on a different year or LX, so who knows what variations might exist.

First remove the inside decklid trim plastics - at least the top and side sections. They just pop off (held with two kinds of plastic body clips).

The things holding the spoiler to the decklid are four bolts, two strips of double sided tape, and three plastic pins (but these seem more like locating pins for ease of assembly). The four bolts also appear to have some sort of foam washer between the decklid and the spoiler (preventing water intrusion?).

You acces the bolts from inside
the hatch - the two middle ones are visible through holes in the sheet metal, the two outer ones are hidden by rubber plugs at the corners.

The double sided tape and plastic pins are on the vertical surface (whereas the bolts are in the horizontal surface).

The bolts have a 10mm head (and are very short).

I removed the bolts, and then tried to use a line to cut the double sided tape, not really knowing where it was. I think this partially worked, but I didn't get very far before I ran into something on both ends preventing me from cutting all the way across. I think it was probably the plastic pins.

After that I tilted it downward and pried it with my hands until I felt the double sided tape coming apart and something popping (probably the plastic pins coming out of their retainers). Eventually I was able to pull it off from one side first and then the other (pulling toward the back of the vehicle rather than upward).

Other than the holes, I actually like the way it looks with it off...

There was some discussion on an earlier thread whether these are hollow or foam filled. Mine is hollow.

 

[CharlieS]

 

[CharlieS]

Example of one of the pins and their receptacle (there are three total). And the things around the bolt holes look like they were an oval foam seal attached to the spoiler side- but that may not be the case, the outer ones could have been mangled by my cutting, or the installation process itself.

The bolts thread into metal nut plates molded into the ABS spoiler.

 

[CharlieS]

Felt weather strip on the bottom edge, and drain holes at the low points. Clever toyota engineering.

 

[Sandroad]

Thanks! Well timed. Mine just got badly scraped by pulling into the garage with the hatch open. The cleanup and fix will be easier with it off, me thinks.

 

[CharlieS]

@Sandroad - Sorry to hear about that, and agree that it'd probably be easier to repair while removed.

I'll have mine apart for a bit longer today, so just let me know if there are additional pictures or info I can share.

 

[CharlieS]

It is taking longer to clean things up than it took to remove it.

I removed the vehicle side of the remaining double sided foam tape with a heat gun, friction, plastic razor blades and wd-40. On the spoiler side, I cut most of ot off with a safety razor, and am trying to decide if I want to bother doing more. I probably will go after it with a plastic blade and wd-40 since I hate doing things half way.

 

[scottm]

Pics with it removed? When I replaced the upper hatch on my 100 I left the wind deflector off, made the roof rack much easier to use. I'd like to do the same on this truck, although the shark fin will continue to be in the way. I can't raise the hatch without hitting anything sticking back past the roof rack right now. My rowing shell I carry often is a problem with the spoiler.

 

[thefourthdoctor]

It is taking longer to clean things up than it took to remove it.

I removed the vehicle side of the remaining double sided foam tape with a heat gun, friction, plastic razor blades and wd-40. On the spoiler side, I cut most of ot off with a safety razor, and am trying to decide if I want to bother doing more. I probably will go after it with a plastic blade and wd-40 since I hate doing things half way.

Removing the old foam tape from the spoiler this way took about 45 min for me. After purchasing my 2013 LC a month ago I heard a rattle inside the spoiler every time I closed the hatch. When removing the spoiler I could see that it had a hairline crack from a PO that had been repaired with epoxy. Somehow, they had broken off one of the green pins and gotten it INSIDE the spoiler. Can't even imagine how they did that.

 

[CharlieS]

Pics with it removed?

Here are a few without it.

You'd need to cover/seal the 4 bolt holes and the four pin receptacles to keep water out.

I have the same issue when I haul my canoe as you do with your rowing shell. It is annoying.

 

[CharlieS]

Removing the old foam tape from the spoiler this way took about 45 min for me. After purchasing my 2013 LC a month ago I heard a rattle inside the spoiler every time I closed the hatch. When removing the spoiler I could see that it had a hairline crack from a PO that had been repaired with epoxy. Somehow, they had broken off one of the green pins and gotten it INSIDE the spoiler. Can't even imagine how they did that.

Glad you found the broken pin, that must've been annoying. Between the hatch and the spoiler side of the double sided tape, I have a good hour into cleaning, and could probably spend another 30-45 minutes on it.

 

[scottm]

I like that look. I can think of a few things I can use those bolt holes to attach, like lights, with wiring through the pin holes.

 

[CharlieS]

@scottm The rest of the hatch sticks up pretty high too. But nowhere as high as with the spoiler...

 

[Sandroad]

Intriguing.........If I left the spoiler off and also shimmed up a couple inches the rear crossbar of the Thule rack I use for my canoe (resulting in a bit of a rake), I think I might clear the hatch with the canoe loaded. That would be a winner!

 

[jrmudder92]

Here are a few without it.

You'd need to cover/seal the 4 bolt holes and the four pin receptacles to keep water out.

I have the same issue when I haul my canoe as you do with your rowing shell. It is annoying. View attachment 2802599View attachment 2802600View attachment 2802601

What did you use to seal them up?

 

[CharlieS]

I put the spoiler back on after installing some dust/scene lights. I used clear rtv around the bolt holes and 3m double sided tape.

If I were going to leave it off, I'd be tempted to just cover the holes with 3m wrap, although a more long term solution might be bolts with foam backed washers and rtv?

 

[Fisher23]

install dust lights

What are dust lights? can you post a pic?

Looks like you also removed the chrome door trim pieces?

I like the rear spoiler looks and I think it adds slightly to better wind drag.. but every time a put a kayak up there I'm concerned with breaking it.

 

[CharlieS]

They're for visibity when someone is following you in the dust/fog or other low visibility conditions. They double as lights around camp. I used them this weekend in heavy mist/fog, and the guy following me was super appreciative.

Yes, I removed the chrome door
pieces. They're hyperdipped now, but don't like the contrasting (graphite) color, so will eventually get them body matched painted. I just have the holes covered with little bits of 3m wrap material. It doesn't look great up close.