- Thread starter
- #21
Can anybody provide some advice on how to run power cords for aftermarket amps? Where do they pass through from the engine bay?
Rear speakers: no bass at all - Bypassing Amp entirely [Complete]
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DirtDawg
"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
A hole in the firewall. Drill a hole, pass the wire through, and add a grommet.
- Thread starter
- #23
so it has to be added? My previous vehicle had a location that could be utilized as-is, was hoping for the same.
Is there a particular location that people fine easiest? I'm thinking in the passenger-side footwell.
DirtDawg
"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
A lot of poor installers will cut an existing boot to install the wire but that is in my opinion the wrong way to do it. I started out in the car audio installation industry and it’s amazing what some people do.
It’s usually easier to run the wire to the side that the amp is on. But also remember wiring in the engine bay will be easier if it’s on the side the battery is on. Plus there is a ton of AC parts blocking good paths on the passenger side. The drivers side is fully accessible.
Find where you want the amp, and then determine the best wiring route for the power wire. Don’t forget that large power wires near audio wires cause interference.
Question- would this have been easier with Metra bypass harness 8116?
Metra 70-8116 Amp Bypass Harness
Metra 70-8116 Amp Bypass Harness
- Thread starter
- #26
From the looks of it, that would have simply saved crimping connectors on 8 wires, 16 if you did bullet connectors or some other form of detachable connection (always).
That basically just replaces the 18g wires I made myself, and puts a handy connector on one end. But you would still need to do all the same splicing at the amp, and you still have to splice the head unit's connector to that one. My solution cost only $10 and I used less than half of the speaker wire I bought.
