Rear quarter panel rust fixes?
- Thread starter xrock
- Start date
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There are plenty of cheap, temporary fixes, but the best way is really to cut out the rust and replace it with new steal. I have no experience with cool cruisers panels but they look good. If it isn't too bad, it can probably be fabricated for a whole lot less...
theferg
SILVER Star
Dude, just cut that junk out and cap it. How far up does it go? Mine were't rusted much, but I smashed one side, so I cut 'em off at natural line that comes around from the bottom of the tail gate. I like it a lot. If I didn't already use up all my free posting space, I'd post a pic...guess I'm gonna hafta donate some $$...
-Ferg-
-Ferg-
theferg
SILVER Star
Damn. I was thinking it was more down on the quarters. I would try and replace the wheel arch section that is rotting there. You may be able to convince some one or some place to sell you a used, good condition cut-out from that section from a vehicle being parted. www.cruiserparts.net might do it. maybe a few other places. I'd hate to spend so much on the replacement from CCOT unless I was going for a total resto or something....
-Ferg-
-Ferg-
are you looking to do teh work yourself or take it to a body shop? Your truck has the same amount of rot at mine. For now I am going to cob up som fiberglass patches and then seal it with a rattle can or self etching primer, not even going to bother painting it. This is a very temporary fix just to pass inspection until i have time to fabricate steal replacement panels. Any body shop can give you cheap and temporary solutions but don;t expect it to last long or stop the rot...
- Thread starter
- #8
I was hoping to do the fix myself (with help)
I saw that coolcruisers.com had some stuff to stop the rust, plus I live in the desert- I was hoping there was some trim pieces or something that could be put over the rust spots after treating them.
Anyone know of some rubber trim pieces that could be utilzed as a temporary (6 month) fix.
I saw that coolcruisers.com had some stuff to stop the rust, plus I live in the desert- I was hoping there was some trim pieces or something that could be put over the rust spots after treating them.
Anyone know of some rubber trim pieces that could be utilzed as a temporary (6 month) fix.
My rig had similar wheelwell rust spots. A bodyshop buddy of mine sandblasted the entire wheel arch to bare metal, epoxy primed, then mounted TJM flares (complete set was about $450 CAD...6 pcs to do front and rear), seam sealed, and then box linered the lower third of my truck to fill any gaps left between the fiberglass flares and the body. It came out real nice and I thought the cost was pretty reasonable. While we were at it the rockers were cut out and replaced w/ 4x4 square tubing. Cheap and will take forever to rust through. Pic at https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=18346
HTH
G.
HTH
G.
4 Step process to a perfect body:
1. Apply triple expanding foam to the rotted area
2. Cut excess foam that has oozed on everything with razor knife
3. Apply thin coat of latex caulking to fill little holes and give base for paint
4. Apply cheap exterior latex paint to caulking
No really, check out 4 wheel auto in Edmonton, AB
http://www.4wheelauto.com/index.php?area_id=2§ion_id=21&action=view&article_id=24
Shipping & duty won't be as bad as you might think....
-mike
1. Apply triple expanding foam to the rotted area
2. Cut excess foam that has oozed on everything with razor knife
3. Apply thin coat of latex caulking to fill little holes and give base for paint
4. Apply cheap exterior latex paint to caulking
No really, check out 4 wheel auto in Edmonton, AB
http://www.4wheelauto.com/index.php?area_id=2§ion_id=21&action=view&article_id=24
Shipping & duty won't be as bad as you might think....
-mike
The other day I was at my local 4x4 center waiting to have some new tyres fitted. I noticed thay sell wheel arch extensions. If I were you, I would take an axle grinder to that rust, then prime it and paint it - then fit some nice wheel arch extensions. It will cover up the problem perfectly..
vtcruiser60
SILVER Star
TwoThirtyDirty said:
Hey.....would you mind writing up a more detailed post than this. Many of us have similar issues with our rigs and lack the funds expend on a pretty restore. Your post makes it sound possible to rig up something that works pretty damn well. Perhaps you could start it as a new post.....I know I would be interested in more details, with some more photos. It would be a great help.
I'm hoping the expanding foam comment was "tongue in cheek". Just in case anyone decides to try this...DON'T DO IT...unless you just want to accelerate the rusting process and build the tube buggy you've always wanted.
I'll try to post a more detailed description of the wheel arch fix we did to my truck in the next day or two. Right now busy building a bumper to carry the 30 yr old Ramsey worm drive winch (brand new 24V motor
) that I confiscated from my old 40 series before it went away.
G.
I'll try to post a more detailed description of the wheel arch fix we did to my truck in the next day or two. Right now busy building a bumper to carry the 30 yr old Ramsey worm drive winch (brand new 24V motor
) that I confiscated from my old 40 series before it went away.G.
- Thread starter
- #15
For those interested, these are the only Fender flares I could find for early 80's FJ60's
Fender flares
http://jtoutfitters.com/product/FJ6062FF
http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/fenderflarekit60series.htm
http://www.tjmproducts.com.au/master_frameset.asp
Fender flares
http://jtoutfitters.com/product/FJ6062FF
http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/fenderflarekit60series.htm
http://www.tjmproducts.com.au/master_frameset.asp
