Rear Pinion Sheared

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Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Threads
27
Messages
777
Location
VA, USA
Website
www.thedarkrealms.com
I had it coming especially with adding the 383 after the SOA and no traction bar. Last sunday we were out playing and sheared my rear pinion trying to climb up/out a gravel hill.

My questions now:
I'd rather stick with a positraction than a locker but I'm not sure whats good to get? (also heard from a friend that he put stronger springs in his stock posi on his suburban and that works??)

I'm also now looking into the 4.88 gears (figured I'd do it when I broke it), good brands/choices?

How hard is it to do this yourself? I'm fairly mechanically inclined but not a mechanic (I work on computers for a living, lol)

SETUP 383 -> 11"/12" Centerforce clutch -> LC 4spd -> LC Tcase -> LC stock 3rd member

Here's some pictures. Its hard to tell but yes there are some chips in some of the teeth on both the pinion and ring.

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landcruiser-pinion-05.JPG

landcruiser-pinion-06.JPG

landcruiser-pinion-07.JPG
 
cool.... oh, I mean that sucks it broke. :). Why not look into something stronger all together? Something like a narrowed 14bolt (to offset it)? they could be had for cheap and built very cheap!
 
cool.... oh, I mean that sucks it broke. :). Why not look into something stronger all together? Something like a narrowed 14bolt (to offset it)? they could be had for cheap and built very cheap!
LoL, yeah we took a little video and caught it and my reaction as I was under the rig . . . and yeah I was smiling (figured I twisted the drive line).
Are you talking about just the 3rd member or a complete new axle? Same friend that has the suburban tried to get me to buy a set of unimog axles. I told him if anything when I broke mine I'd probably look at a dana 80.
 
Axle wrap is the general cause of that.
Yeah I know, I just didn't do it . . . And I had pretty bad axle wrap.
I'll hopefully be getting my welder end of this week and I'll start working on my traction bar then. Not sure what I'm going to do for the front axle yet.
 
What springs are you running? I remember being able to wrap the stock springs even with the six cylinder. My OME's don't seem to do it even with the 350.
I'm running the stock/original springs. I did the SOA hoping for 5" but ended up with 6" front and 6.5" rear. I don't want to go after market springs because I'm already taller than planned.
I'd love to do the Parabolics but those don't come in stock height.
 
SOA is way worse on wrap than SUA.

14 bolt is an entire new axle.

Why in the world would you want to use a D80? The pumpkin is huge and will only be a detriment to your celarance.

a 14 bolt/D60/built 9" is a much better option.

Course, the best option is just to keep your stock rear and put a traction bar on it.

Gear brands are not a huge deal. I can't think of any that are absolute crap..
limited slips are okay, if you really want traction then go locker. Selectable locers are nice too.

Lots of opinions on both out there.

If you have not set a third up yourself, it is a good idea to have someone that has help you. it is not horrid, but it doues take a "touch".
 
SOA is way worse on wrap than SUA.

14 bolt is an entire new axle.

Why in the world would you want to use a D80? The pumpkin is huge and will only be a detriment to your celarance.

a 14 bolt/D60/built 9" is a much better option.

Course, the best option is just to keep your stock rear and put a traction bar on it.

Gear brands are not a huge deal. I can't think of any that are absolute crap..
limited slips are okay, if you really want traction then go locker. Selectable locers are nice too.

Lots of opinions on both out there.

If you have not set a third up yourself, it is a good idea to have someone that has help you. it is not horrid, but it doues take a "touch".
Thanks Mace. By "touch" I do have several hammers ; )
Honestly I thought the inner axles of the FJ60 were bigger than that of a ford 9" anyway? (which I thought was the same as a D60)

I already have plans to make a traction bar/ladder. I may replace the stock (albiet modified) transmission mount at the same time.

I'm not a "hardcore" wheeler. I go out with friends and play but I also take it on trips over to the coast (3hrs highway). I'd love to take a trip to Moab some time and try it out for the fun of it. All that said I think a locker would hinder my road use a little and that leaves me with a posi. I also think I'm happy with my 35" tires so a 4.88 gearing would bring me back pretty close to stock. The selectable lockers from what I know of them are all more expensive than I'm interested in.

As far as the D80 goes, if I'm gonna leave my landcruiser axles behind then I'm going to go overkill.

My understanding of a posi: It lets the axles slip to a point then tries to lock them together. Stock is like a 30% and only holds up so well but getting an aftermarket one would be like 70-80% and would eventually fail and let the one tire spin but would take a ton of pressure to do it. Please let me know if I'm off my rocker here. But thats how I understood it.
 
I've never seen a posi that worked much better than an open dif.

A D80 is a huge axle and still only had 35spline axles. Only useful in a big tow rig. you would be much better of with a 70 or 14bolt.

You can see the rub marks on your DS yokes, you wrapped your axle, bound the yokes & snapped the pinion. You need to address your axle wrap, if you don't you t-case may be next.

Just like Mace said, its pretty easy to setup gears, but there are a few tricks that help alot.

It has been rumored that most LC gears come out of the same factory in Italy. I compared 3 different brands of 4.88's and they were all identical down to the engraved checking distance having the same hand writing style.
 
What springs are you running? I remember being able to wrap the stock springs even with the six cylinder. My OME's don't seem to do it even with the 350.

Might want to test that theory out. Chain the rear to something while someone is looking under the vehicle in 2wd and give it some gas. Video it!

New OME's might not have much AW. But I would think a used set would eventually twist like a pretzel.


:beer::beer:
 
I've never seen a posi that worked much better than an open dif.

A D80 is a huge axle and still only had 35spline axles. Only useful in a big tow rig. you would be much better of with a 70 or 14bolt.

You can see the rub marks on your DS yokes, you wrapped your axle, bound the yokes & snapped the pinion. You need to address your axle wrap, if you don't you t-case may be next.

Just like Mace said, its pretty easy to setup gears, but there are a few tricks that help alot.

It has been rumored that most LC gears come out of the same factory in Italy. I compared 3 different brands of 4.88's and they were all identical down to the engraved checking distance having the same hand writing style.
Thanks for the info on gears, didn't know that.

As far as putting a third member together, I have a friend that has been doing it to his toyota pickup for a while. This is my first one and the example for me and some other friends for future ones : )

I've seen a lot of posts on Aussie Lockers. Most people seem to like them. Why is it that they sell their lockers for $259.99 and most other companies sell for 2x-3x that price?
 
I have add-a-leafs on the rear with stock springs and that seems to fix the axle wrap problem but adds about 1.5" of lift. I built a traction bar for the front because I did the same thing you did but on the front. I already have 488 gears. I have Precision Gears in the rear, Sierra gears in the front and "Yukon" gears in a spare 3rd. Yukon does not make these gears so you pay extra money to get someone elses gears in the expensive Yukon box!

Link to my front traction bar.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/222772-heavy-duty-traction-bar-front-axle.html

I went on some pretty rocky trails on Saturday and scrapped the traction bar pretty good but since its overbuilt it took it with just scraps and protected my front drive shaft. I don't need a traction bar for the rear but I do need protection for the drive line.
 
Oh ya, I have front and rear Aussie lockers and they work just fine.
 
I have add-a-leafs on the rear with stock springs and that seems to fix the axle wrap problem but adds about 1.5" of lift. I built a traction bar for the front because I did the same thing you did but on the front. I already have 488 gears. I have Precision Gears in the rear, Sierra gears in the front and "Yukon" gears in a spare 3rd. Yukon does not make these gears so you pay extra money to get someone elses gears in the expensive Yukon box!

Link to my front traction bar.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/222772-heavy-duty-traction-bar-front-axle.html

I went on some pretty rocky trails on Saturday and scrapped the traction bar pretty good but since its overbuilt it took it with just scraps and protected my front drive shaft. I don't need a traction bar for the rear but I do need protection for the drive line.

Thanks for the link to your front end swaybar, I saw that one when I was searching. I actually still have that page up as an option on my computer at home.

Yeah, I'm trying not to get anymore height so I probably won't be adding any more leafs : (

Just bought my Aussie : ) Now for gears . . .

I'm thinking this is probably what I'll copy when I make mine IH8MUD™ Forums - View Single Post - Better anti wrap ideas?
 

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