Rear Pinion leak 5k miles

[lurch]

I've got a rear pinion leak that is caused by a worn out drive shaft. The slip yoke is loose and I need a double cardan joint because the rear pinion is pointed towards the transfer case. The DS has a thicker, larger diameter tube adding more weight to the problem. I think I only have about 3K-5K miles total on the third member setup. And only about 200-300 miles with the DS-caused vibration. (time that Currant DS has been installed) The pinion has been leaking for about 30 miles. The leak is not bad...just got the housing a little moist.

So I measured the movement of the flange with a dial indicator and I'm getting about .01" (.005" in either direction) vertical movement just from pulling and pushing on the flange.

Are the pinion bearings shot and need replaced? Or can I reset the pinion preload? Or third the vibration with the DS is causing the leak and there is not much of an issue here?

 

[amaurer]

I've got a rear pinion leak that is caused by a worn out drive shaft. The slip yoke is loose and I need a double cardan joint because the rear pinion is pointed towards the transfer case. The DS has a thicker, larger diameter tube adding more weight to the problem. I think I only have about 3K-5K miles total on the third member setup. And only about 200-300 miles with the DS-caused vibration. (time that Currant DS has been installed) The pinion has been leaking for about 30 miles. The is not bad...just got the housing a little moist.

So I measured the movement of the flange with a dial indicator and I'm getting about .01" (.005" in either direction) vertical movement just from pulling and pushing on the flange.

Are the pinion bearings shot and need replaced? Or can I reset the pinion preload? Or third the vibration with the DS is causing the leak and there is not much of an issue here?

You don't have a slip yoke - if the yoke is wigglin' its because your pinion nut is loose (which itself may mean you've lost/spun your shims or your bearings are worn).

The "right" fix is to tear the third down, replace the bearings and shims (or sleeve) and reset the preload. The fix that works for many many people is to just tighten the pinion nut back up.

Whatever you do, once you eliminate the slack in the yoke (and replace the pinion seal while you're there), and verify your DS yokes are in phase, the vibes and the leak will be gone.

 

[inkpot]

Howdy! I think Lurch is talking about the slip joint in the middle of the DS is worn out and it wiggles too much, causing vibrations and wear on the pinion and seals. Just a guess. John

 

[lurch]

Howdy! I think Lurch is talking about the slip joint in the middle of the DS is worn out and it wiggles too much, causing vibrations and wear on the pinion and seals. Just a guess. John

Yup thats what I'm talking about! The slip joint has rotational movement, when on the highway as long as I'm accelerating the viberation mostly stops. When coasting it vibrates like H3LL.

Also I should have mentioned that I twisted the driveshaft last summer and had it retubed. (reason I now have a traction bar)Perphaps I damaged the pinion bearings at that time.

 

[dgangle]

There is a whole bunch of info here that just doesn't make sense. Before you can make any type of correction to a problem, you must first determine where the problem is. Is the play in the slip joint, pinion flange, U-joint, TC output bearing??????? Do this first before you jump all around.

If it is the DS and not either of the flanges, pull it and take it back to the drive shaft shop that modified it for you. Have them evaluate and re-balance if necessary. Make sure it is installed "in-phase". If the slip joint is bad they can make that determination and give you a price to replace it or advise options.

 

[lurch]

There is a whole bunch of info here that just doesn't make sense. Before you can make any type of correction to a problem, you must first determine where the problem is. Is the play in the slip joint, pinion flange, U-joint, TC output bearing??????? Do this first before you jump all around.

If it is the DS and not either of the flanges, pull it and take it back to the drive shaft shop that modified it for you. Have them evaluate and re-balance if necessary. Make sure it is installed "in-phase". If the slip joint is bad they can make that determination and give you a price to replace it or advise options.

Sorry for all of the confusion...I have the drive shaft problem taken care of, I was providing a history. I'm basically looking for advice on the leaking pinion.

Do I need to just rebuild the pinion or is there some chance that the bearing is not damage. I would like to think the bearings are all right since they have less than 5K miles on them.

How much movement should exist in the pinion? Is the above amount ok or is that an indicator that the bearing is shot?

 

[Poser]

How much movement should exist in the pinion?

None, other than rotating.

 

[pb4ugo]

You stated that your pinion is pointing @ the tcase, so the tcase and pinion angles are not similar? If so that will create a vibration which could have hurt the pinion bearing. My guess is that it has loosened your pinion nut and messed up the shims. The bearing maybe OK, but i think you will have to set it up again, then correct the pinion angle, or install a double cardin joint w/proper set up. Good luck!

 

[inkpot]

Howdy! Kinda BTDT. I would not be surprised if the problem will come back if you replace the seal and retorque the bearing. You need to replace the slip joint, as there is no way to repair it if it wobbles. Make sure your DS angles are right, or the vibrations will never go away. John

 

[lurch]

Howdy! Kinda BTDT. I would not be surprised if the problem will come back if you replace the seal and retorque the bearing. You need to replace the slip joint, as there is no way to repair it if it wobbles. Make sure your DS angles are right, or the vibrations will never go away. John

I've got a drive shaft in good condition that I'm getting converted to a double cardan that will fix the slip joint and the different flange angles.

My guess is that it has loosened your pinion nut and messed up the shims. The bearing maybe OK, but i think you will have to set it up again, then correct the pinion angle, or install a double cardin joint w/proper set up. Good luck!

The nut has not moved, it's still staked in the same spot as when it was installed.

After talking to a few people, the conclusion is most of the damage was done by axle rap when the original DS twisted like a twizzler. And the currant slip joint problem is making it worse

Sounds like I need some bearings