Rear parking brake drum full of grease. What failed? (1 Viewer)

[AdventureBuddies]

97 FZJ80

Noticed some smoking from left rear wheel on the last trail run. Also, parking brake not working. Pulled the disc - hub is full of grease.

I suppose this means I have a rear axle service in my near future? I'm planning a trip for Thanksgiving and don't have tons of time. How long does the rear service take? I did my front axle a few months ago - thought it was pretty straight forward. I know I need an SST for the rear - I'll have to buy it unless there are any OC dudes who can loan me one. I'm in Tustin.

So, what caused this and what else do I need to do while "in there?"

Thanks

 

[padre]

Rear axle is far simpler then front and faster as well. Doing it first time I spent 2 hours per side and the biggest problem for me was to remove rotor. Despite of having parking brake fully released with adjusting nut you access through rotor at 6 o,clock position - it would not budge. I had to, gently, hammer it off hub.
The grease on you pics looks quite wet, likely both seals failed.

Andre

 

[91Cruizer]

The disc can be a PITA to get off but since you have it off already the hardest part is probably done.

 

[AdventureBuddies]

Interesting what you say about getting the disc off - it slid right off with zero effort. I'll order the parts to rebuild.

 

[turbocruiser]

So, what caused this and what else do I need to do while "in there?"

Thanks

The seal failed, I would R&R everything even bearings and races just cause its cheap and easy. If you cant find the SST you can make one (several threads showing how to do that) or worst to worst I can send you mine.

BTW, if you have lockers make SURE they're locked prior to taking things apart. HTH.

Ohh, depending on condition of rotors might replace those too; I know there is the debate on turning them but I really think that accelerates future warpage. Keep in mind with everything I recommend I'm OOCD (overly obsessive compulsive disorder) so sometimes half of what I recommend is plenty enough! again.

 

[MikePL]

Some of you say that rotors are hard to take off. But don't they have two threaded holes near the hub. You just put two bolts and tighten them, then the rotor pops out...

 

[AdventureBuddies]

I will inspect the bearings to see what shape they're in - if good then I'll keep them.

My rear discs are in great shape - drilled so they must have been replaced at some point.

Thanks for the reminder about locking the rear diff - I won't forget.

Is there a list of parts or part numbers for this job? I need to get it repaired tomorrow so I won't have time to order from CDAN - my local dealer gives me 20% off so I'm OK.

From the FSM - i have the SST part # and it looks like there are two seals and a gasket per side. Any other parts that are non-reuseable? Anything else I need?

 

[brownjeans]

The seal failed, I would R&R everything even bearings and races just cause its cheap and easy. If you cant find the SST you can make one (several threads showing how to do that) or worst to worst I can send you mine.

BTW, if you have lockers make SURE they're locked prior to taking things apart. HTH.

Ohh, depending on condition of rotors might replace those too; I know there is the debate on turning them but I really think that accelerates future warpage. Keep in mind with everything I recommend I'm OOCD (overly obsessive compulsive disorder) so sometimes half of what I recommend is plenty enough! again.

Sorry to resurrect a 7-year old thread, but I am servicing my rear hub and following the service manual and saw no mention of locking the locker before dis-assembly. Then I came looking for a pic of the park brake (as I was servicing it too) and saw this. I have NOT locked my lockers before dis-assembly. I didn't see it in the FSM. So, why lock them? What problem is caused by not locking them?

Thanks

 

[1973Guppie]

I am assuming the locking just lines up all the splines in the inner workings allowing it easier to remove and install the axles? but I might be wrong?

 

[brownjeans]

Thanks Guppie, I think you must have been right and I lucked out because the axle slipped right in and everything seems fine.

 

[1973Guppie]

if you have the axle end up on jacks it is easy enough to rotate the driveshaft while inserting the shaft to get it to slip in.

man that sounded dirty.

 

[rhyary]

You lock so that the mechanism will be out of the way to push the axle back in. You can always get to it by unbolting the three bolts of the positioning switch and get the mechanism out of the way. But remembering to lock save you that step