Rear of cab power source or aux fuse block

[greasem0nkey86]

Hello everyone!

I’ve searched this subject and haven’t found an answer to my dilemma and looking for suggestions.

I’m planning on mounting several LED lights and potentially a fridge (in the future) to the cargo area of my truck and I’m undecided on how to supply power to those accessories.

My two options so far are:

• Run 10ga wire from engine bay to cargo area and mount a small aux block in the tool compartment, and run accessories to aux fuse block (less wiring mess through the cab)
• OR
• Home run all wiring harnesses to aux fuse block in the engine bay (wiring can get messy)

Thoughts?
Suggestions?

Thanks

 

[saucebox]

Go with the first—it makes more sense to run larger gauge wires to a fuse block, then power accessories as needed. Future additions are easier too.

This block is what I've seen here (and use myself). Good piece of gear. Amazon product ASIN B01BXTXV1Q

 

[nnnnnate]

I did two fuse blocks. One under the hood then another piggybacked off that one to the back of the rig.

Cab mounted block is under the wing of my rear drawers.

Fact is I have accessories under the hood I wanted to connect to power AND accessories inside the cab as well and I didn't want to keep running wires through the firewall.

When I add a second battery (which I need kind of bad for my fridge) I'll probably move the engine fuse block but I did leave extra wire so I've got the wiggle room to be able to do that.

 

[Otter]

I'd suggest running larger gauge to the rear than 10 gauge. I ran 4ga to a breaker in the engine bay then ran 4ga to the rear of the truck. I connected that to a power post, which then connects to my fuse panel for the accessories.

I run a puma compressor in the rear, along with my fridge and extra power ports.

 

[87warrior]

The 6 circuit with cover fusebox from Blue Seas fits nicely in the rear cupholder you are probably never going to use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000K2MBPA

I ran an 8awg wire from the second battery, protected with 40amp breaker.

 

[saucebox]

The 6 circuit with cover fusebox from Blue Seas fits nicely in the rear cupholder you are probably never going to use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000K2MBPA

View attachment 2037289

I ran an 8awg wire from the second battery, protected with 40amp breaker.

Daaaaaaamn, man. That looks nice!

 

[87warrior]

Daaaaaaamn, man. That looks nice!

Thanks I struggled finding a good spot for everything and this was the best I could come up with. Its still not done. I have a few Anderson plugs to install for more secure fridge power and a ham radio for camp.

 

[bgolf247]

The 6 circuit with cover fusebox from Blue Seas fits nicely in the rear cupholder you are probably never going to use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000K2MBPA

View attachment 2037289

I ran an 8awg wire from the second battery, protected with 40amp breaker.

Clean AF! Nice!

 

[bgolf247]

I can help you learn from my mistakes/wasted time. I did it piece meal and ran switch wiring, then ARB fridge kit and now to power more accessories in rear I will run a 4 AWG to a fuse block in back. Should have just done the 4 AWG in the first place. BTW I also have an engine compartment fuse block for exterior lights etc.

 

[diego355]

My led light bar and spot lights are connected directly to the battery due that I will use them 99% when im driving.
My fuse block is a Blue Sea 12 blade behind the rear seat, ran with a 4 gauge fused wire from my secondary Optima yellow top.
From the fuse block I have my Dometic CFX65DZ, cargo lights, 6 usb ports, UHF, inverter, subwoofer amp, and aux fan for my roof top tent.
One wire going to the back, easy access, no dirt.

 

[greasem0nkey86]

Thanks for all the feedback everyone!

Installing an auxiliary fuse block is the neater way to go. I did have issues finding a compact fuse block, so thanks for the compact Blue Sea idea!

@87warrior, do you happen to have more install photos of the 6 circuit fuse block?

 

[87warrior]

@greasem0nkey86 Installing the 6 Circuit Blue Seas was pretty simple and unfortunately I did not take pictures. All you need to do is uncrew the cupholder assembly from the backside and pull it out. This leaves a nice cavity for the fuse block. Position the Blue Seas block in the cavity, making sure the cover can still be removed. Mark pilot holes for mounting screws and where the 6 circuit wires/feed will come into the cavity. Drill, mount and run wires. If you remove the factory subwoofer you end up with a TON of space behind that panel (and a little more space in the jack storage area). There should still be room to run the wiring with the factory subwoofer enclosure in place.

In these pictures, only the 12v outlet is powered.

 

[greasem0nkey86]

@87warrior
Looks great, I love how it's tucked away and not protruding like a wart.

I think I have found a spot to for a compact Blue Sea fuse block that's next to the spare tool compartment.
I'll post up a photo when it arrives.