Rear Locking Dif Assembly Help (1 Viewer)

[RavenTai]

Ok, so I put the north magnets facing each other, and in between them the south facing. So as the rotor(armature) turns it passes each magnet N-S-N-S and so on. I get that bit, what I don’t understand, if the motor runs in reverse what do I do to get it running the correct way.
Sorry if I’m a bit of a dummy, Just can’t get my head round what to do if the motor runs in reverse.
The wife says I’m a total plonker, and I should have check and documented everything before dismantling, huh hindsight!!

Assuming you have the clock right and have them nsns, then it will run til the programing plate tells it to stop. Or it will run the wromg way and push against its mechanical stopp, if you have it wrong you have to move the magnets 90 degrees or switch the motor plugs in the connector, it will.be technically wromg but will still function

 

[Scalci]

I have the same issue, then I took the motor out, the magnets fell out. I tried a couple of options with oppisite polarity but it is still not right.

Someone maybe with photos?

 

[Bfaiers]

If I put the magnets in the position of diagram A, and it runs in reverse. If I move them to position B will it then run the correct way. If this is correct, I can’t understand why, by moving them 90 degrees makes the motor run a different way. Or do you turn each magnet through 180 degrees.
Drawings made from Tools R Us picture.

 

[RavenTai]

Great drawing,

this is a reversable permenent magnet DC motor, the permenent magnet "field" or "stator" portion you are already familiar with, the other part is the "armiture" or "rotor", the stator stays put, the rotor rotates, the rotor uses electro magnets, if you wrap wire arround a nail and hook the wires to a dc power source like a battery current will spiral arround the nail generating electromagnetic flux, the nail will become a magnet, lets say first time you hooked it up the head of the nail is north and the point is south, now if you flip the wires on the battery the current will spiral in the opposite direction, the head of the nail will now be south the point north.

Now lets put our electro magnet nail inside your drawing a, with the point pointing up, if the point of the nail is north it will be attracted to south and repelled by north therefore the nail will swing clockwise, about the time the nail gets to the south magnet the commutator, will flip polarity of the nail point to south, due to inertia the now south nail point will continue swinging clockwise and be repelled the south magnet and attracted by the next north magnet, repeat this cycle as the nail spins arround clock wise, now what if We flipped our current polarity, with our nail starting with a south pole at 12 o clock in drawing a it would instead travel counterclockwise attracted by the north magnet and repelled by the south.

The locker ecu uses this reversability to get two modes out of the motor, lock and unlock, it does this by flipping the polarity sent to the motor and shutting off the current when the programming plate rotated.to the correct position.

 

[Bfaiers]

Thanks RavenTai for all you help, couldn’t have assembled the gears and fork shaft without it.
I now understand the way the electric motor works. I think it is down to a flip of a coin as to where I put the first N magnet A or B. Thanks again for all your help.
Rgds
Bernie.
(British but now living in France)

 

[Scalci]

Thx a million guys, got it to work

One last think, just read Ravin's withup on the gear timing, let me go do that now

 

[Scalci]

what direction should the motor turn?

 

[Bfaiers]

Depends if your engaging or dis-engaging!

 

[awkragt]

I've gone through this thread and troubleshooted my actuator. It works perfectly. Green and Green/Red cycle the actuator from locked to unlocked, the other 3 wires read the proper signals on the multimeter at the plug. I've inspected as much of the wiring as I can see but where is the Locker ECU located?

 

[Eighty96]

I used this OLD thread for repairing my rear diff lock actuator on my '96 80. thanks so much to the contributors. I removed the assembly on unlock position, placed it back on the same position I never moved anything anyway.( no measurement done ). tested it and it engages faster than before. lets see how it does on the trails.

 

[Mauiyotanokaoi]

Resurrection... I just cleaned up my rear fzj80 locker and this thread was my savior!!! One thing to note is that my continuity break on the 'locked' pins occurred way past 2 7/8"... Was more like 3.125" and also my pins that opened and closed were wired opposite but functionally it does not matter wherever the contacts are will turn the motor on and off accordingly. I set the 'unlocked' circuit break shaft length to 2 3/8" despite that the "locked" break was way out there. I used dielectric grease and my o ring sealing surfaces were so shot I just rtv'd the s*** out of them. Seems to work every time ha. And the axle is leaf sprung under my sas 1998 taco with 5.29's and a momentary switch from low range.

 

[Supra88]

My rear locker isn't working, center and front are working. Long story short, I have an new rear locker Aisin actuator that I'm going to install. I assume it's shipping in the locked position, however my rear diff is unlocked. Does this mean I need to get the actuator to the "unlocked" position before installing? If so, what's the best method? Plug it in the harness or 9v?

 

[Beej]

Wow, this thread is wonderful. Is this in faq?

Op, when you remove the old locker actuator, you'll see it's attached with a screw into the actuator rod thing. So when you install the new one, you'll thread in the same screw. If it's hard to move the fork, spin the tires (jacked up) until it isn't hard. That's a crappy description but you really cannot go wrong unless you open the new actuator. Don't do that.

 

[Supra88]

So what you're saying is move the fork to the locked position to match the actuator shaft length?

 

[Beej]

Yes.

You also have the option of plugging it in but not installing it; use the switch to get it into the position you need and install. (Thought of that after I posted before)

 

[Supra88]

Officially triple locked again. Thanks for the help!

 

[lehiguy]

I'll bring this tread back from the dead... again. The measurements indicated here about the shaft extension are not correct for 100 series lockers. The shaft will be out 6 to 8mm farther when the circuit opens in the unlocked position.

 

[KFunk740]

Thanks for the bump lehiguy.

On this topic, I'm struggling to get the basics through my head, but have a question for anyone knowledgeable.
I'm also working on a 100 series locker.

Is it possible to take the driven gear unit out of the actuator housing and put it back inside properly, without removing the actuator from the diff?

The reason I ask is that my diff got stuck locked, and being stupid and unaware, the only way I could quickly figure out how to get it unlocked was to pull the cover and remove the gear and drive around a little until it unlocked. Maybe I just wasn't trying hard enough to get it unlocked in the first place, as it probably hadn't been used in 20 years.

Anyways, I put the gears back in place without thinking of orienation, and of course I can't get it to lock. I'm also struggling to get actuator removed because one of the bolts rounded off.
That was over a year ago, and now I want my locker to work again. Trying to learn if I can just put the gears back in the proper orientation and get it to work, or if I need to pull entire actuator and do all the bench testing. I bought a special socket for rounded off bolts, but afraid I could end up snapping that little bolt and having to drill it out.

Thanks for any help guys.

 

[JLH911]

This PDF is no longer available.

1. it was 2 years ago, I remember the bevel on one side you are talking about but not witch way it went, maybe drop the gear and the shift lock fork shaft into the housing and see witch way gets the most tooth engagement and see if everything clears.

2. at the end of the driven gear cross shaft was split, the end where the final gear lives, this tab just sat there filling the split in that shaft, at the time I could not figure out what it did, so I put it back where it came from, I mentioned it above just so people would be aware of it and not loose it, it is just a flat piece of metal maybe 5/15" wide and 1/2" long or so?

3. the diagram comes from the 96 LX450 New Car Features manual in PDF format, a very interesting manual, it talks about how things work with drawing and schematics, no instructions on repairs just "how it works"

each time a model is redesigned a full NCF is produced for that year, after that only changes are discussed, so if you have a 97 LC you need each manual from 1991 on to get the full set, for instance for your 97 to see the body info you woudl go to the 91 manual, for the interior the 95 manual, for the engine and lockers the 93,

since the 96 LX was a "brand new vehicle" as far as Lexus was concerned a full NCF was produced for that year, if you own any year FZJ80 it is the one to have,

here is the transfer case section from that manual


http://webpages.charter.net/raventai/HF2AV TRANSFER.pdf

 

[Contamination]

Huge thankyou to Raven - I had to re-calibrate rod length after a complete disassembly and your post got me out of trouble.