Rear locker - Eaton vs Positrac vs ARB vs stock - 2003 100 series (2 Viewers)

[RollinYotas]

I was talking to the driveline shop about getting a possible locker installed. The eaton seems like a great idea because of it's simplicity but the shop says they're really loud. The shop recommended positrac but I thought that may be pretty close to what ATRAC already does. They've done some ARBs already with no complaints. But I hear ARBs eventually leak. Or I can stay stock. After all we do have ATRAC. I don't think ATRAC is as good as lockers but I can see why Toyota did it. It's a very cost effective way to get wheel engagement in low traction situations.

Tell me about your experiences.

 

[diego355]

Eaton/Harrop e-locker doesnt make a single noise whatsoever, its easy, simple and from my experience extremly reliable.

 

[hoser]

They are probably talking about the Eaton Detroit lockers.

 

[saucebox]

Eaton/Harrop e-locker doesnt make a single noise whatsoever, its easy, simple and from my experience extremly reliable.

Same experience here. Not a single noise, going on 5 years with an Eaton. I chose it so I could run fewer and smaller things to the front axle and not have to plumb all the way to the other side of my truck where the compressor lives.

Mine (front) feels like it needs a roll-in of sorts—it isn't instantaneous like the ARB, if that's important to you. As long as it's engaged a few feet before it's really needed, it's been totally fine. You can also chase down a rear axle out of a '98 or '99 that has the factory locker (I did, and a few other members...there's a thread around here somewhere with the details.)

A wheeling buddy of mine runs an ARB in a rear Dana 60. For a while he was chasing internal seal failures, which for him meant that all the air pressure leaked through to pressurize his breather line...essentially just pumped fizzy gear oil into his rear quarter panel. It's been a number of years and he still badmouths it (but still runs it). Replacing that seal is a total diff tear down. On the other hand, I've met a fair few people who run ARBs without issue, and for years. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Edit: It snows here (or used to?), so anything with auto-lock is an automatic pass. I've also heard they're louder, but no first-hand experience.

 

[porschenut]

Something to consider is repair part availability for the OEM elocker. I recently replaced both my rear differential actuator as well as diff control ECU. An OEM actuator is a ton of money so I took a chance on one from AliExpress for about 25-30% of the cost. That’s worked fine for the 5 times I’ve used it. The ECU is another matter. It’s NLA from Toyota so I had to source a used one and those are like hens teeth in North America. I found some dismantlers in Europe and Australia who listed some online but they wouldn’t even reply to my inquiries. You might consider skipping the ECU and hard wiring a toggle switch to the actuator if you go that route.

 

[Hulsty]

I have the factory fitted rear locker in mine, works well and has been faultless, does take a little LH and RH steering input while driving forward 5-10m to engage. Not sure how hard they are to retrofit. In the front I have a ARB (6-7 years now) and it has also been faultless, leaks are normally installer issue related. In my 70 series I also have ARB's, both leak a little now days but they are 30+ years old now.

 

[TahoeZ]

If you need lockers, you need lockers; ATRAC doesn't cut it. It's great for what it is and does, but does not replace a locker IME.

Eaton and ARB are certainly the top choices, but I'm not a big fan of either one. In my experience, the ARB lockers will eventually leak somewhere; hopefully just a line. I went with Eaton this time and it certainly is a lot simpler but leaves a few things to be desired: First, It does not lock instantly; you have to drive quite a bit further than I had expected to get it to lock. Second, if you reverse, it unlocks, then you have to drive forward a ways to get it to lock again. Not really ideal in a number of situations. Pros are the simplicity and no-noise.

 

[Trapper50cal]

... Second, if you reverse, it unlocks, then you have to drive forward a ways to get it to lock again. Not really ideal in a number of situations. Pros are the simplicity and no-noise.

That's what I had heard elsewhere but didn't chime in due to not having firsthand experience.
I think that dynamic is acceptable if it's front only. I plan on factory rear and Eaton/Harrop up front.