Rear lock cylinder removal.

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Feb 12, 2010
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My 80 like everyone elses is at the point where all the locks are dead or dieing.
Ive had new keys cut to the original code and the ignition and drivers door cylenders rebuilt now i just need to remove the passenger cylender and the tailgate one to give to the lock smith.
Is the rear one similar to remove to the doors or is it different?
 
Open the panel undo the bars from lock assembly then there is clip pop that up and the lock comes right out
 
Why do you need to remove the rear one? It is the same key for the 2 front doors, ignition and rear door. If you are having a problem putting the key in try spraying WD40 or some stuff like that. If you really need to take it off you have to open the rear gate, take the plastic trim off and you will see a 10 mm bolt (I am pretty sure), and a metal sliding clip. remove them if you need it
 
If you are having a problem putting the key in try spraying WD40 or some stuff like that
Nigelsiam, i had a lock smith tell me once you should never spray your cars locks with WD 40. He told me that WD 40 attracts, and holds dirt like a magnet, once enough dirt gets inside the locks cylinder, it can bind up the tumblers. When that happens people have to call a lock smith to unlock their car, plus they need them to repair the lock cylinder too. He said people using WD 40 on their locks was like a built in work generator for him. So i asked him if WD 40 is bad for locks, then what does he use. He said the best thing to use is dry powdered graphite. Since it's not an oil, and goes on dry, it never attracts dirt, and it does a good job of lubing the tumblers.
 
For what it's worth, you can get a complete lock cylinder set, part number 69005-60290. Currently $206.20 on PartSouq. It includes the ignition cylinder, both front doors, the rear hatch, and the glove box lock, along with new keys.

I looked at fixing some lock problems and realized that replacing a damaged cylinder and paying a locksmith to re-key would quickly approach the price of the whole new set, so I just went with the set.
 
Nigelsiam, i had a lock smith tell me once you should never spray your cars locks with WD 40. He told me that WD 40 attracts, and holds dirt like a magnet, once enough dirt gets inside the locks cylinder, it can bind up the tumblers. When that happens people have to call a lock smith to unlock their car, plus they need them to repair the lock cylinder too. He said people using WD 40 on their locks was like a built in work generator for him. So i asked him if WD 40 is bad for locks, then what does he use. He said the best thing to use is dry powdered graphite. Since it's not an oil, and goes on dry, it never attracts dirt, and it does a good job of lubing the tumblers.
yeah that's true...but you need something to initially get the lock moving again so it's a process of something like: brake parts cleaner, some solvent like Liquid Wrench or WD40, etc. cleaner again and then the graphite. It will work.
 
Thanks for all the replies troops.
My issue initialy was i couldnt turn my ignition on...it had been horrible forever.
I called a locksmith and he came out and cut me a new key to the code from the drivers door lock...this didnt work.
He removed most of the wafers from the barrel so i could use the new key and use my vechile.
I had issues with my drivers door lock ...and all the others for a long time.
He said a mate of his could source new barrel wafers and he would do his best to make them like new.
He has and its only cost 100 bucks and 60 to do the other two locks ant thats with two new keys.
A genuine set here on ebay is 585.
My dealer wanted 385 just for the ignition with a different key code.

So all in all these locks are verry serviceable, dont let anyone tell you they arnt
 
I just pulled all the wafers out of mine to let it work. Kinda like a hidden lock anyway, and if anyone really wants to get in they'll just bust a window, so I figured WTH? Cheap fix and makes it easy if I accidentally lock my keys in the truck.
 

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