Rear Fog Light (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter CDN_Cruiser
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
Just looking at the mounting instructions - Hella notes:
"The upper edge of the lens may not be more than 1000mm (~40"?) above the roadway.....less than 250mm above the roadway."
"The upper edge of the lens may not be more than 1000mm (~40"?) above the roadway.....less than 250mm above the roadway."
Just show 
to Hella. 
to Hella. 
Junk,
What you got there with the lights is exactly what i want. Where did you run the wires to the two lights on the back of the rack? Did you have to drill a hole in the roof? I was wondering cause, in the very rare occasion i do want to take the roof rack off, i was thinking of having wire connectors so you could un-plug the lights and take the entire roof rack w/ lights (front and back)off. I was thinking of drilling a hole and then using some type of rubber bushing in which i could poke the wires through and then apply a dab of clear silicon around where the wires poke through. Just for those times when you are going on say a 1,000+ mile road trip and know you're not going to use the rack, so i'll take it off to save on gas and wind noise.
What you got there with the lights is exactly what i want. Where did you run the wires to the two lights on the back of the rack? Did you have to drill a hole in the roof? I was wondering cause, in the very rare occasion i do want to take the roof rack off, i was thinking of having wire connectors so you could un-plug the lights and take the entire roof rack w/ lights (front and back)off. I was thinking of drilling a hole and then using some type of rubber bushing in which i could poke the wires through and then apply a dab of clear silicon around where the wires poke through. Just for those times when you are going on say a 1,000+ mile road trip and know you're not going to use the rack, so i'll take it off to save on gas and wind noise.
- Thread starter
- #45
The great advantage of a forum like this is you get to go back and see when you 'intended' to do something and then repost when you 'actually' do the job. Ladies and gentlemen...I have finally completed the mounting of my rear fog light, just in time for the snow. It may only be one 
, but it ended up taking me over a year (I'm no expert, but this may be of use to someone):
- I mounted one, red, Hella rear fog light wired to an OEM switch. My light is wired to run as long as the parking lights are on (ie not just wired off the battery to prevent running my battery flat)
- I used a stock bolt location on the underside of the bumper (US DS), just outboard of the tow point. I had to drill-out the hole and captive nut to fit the light. If you're careful, and pull straight, you can still use the tow point - about 4" of room. I plan to take the light off when I off-road - not easy, but likely 10-15 min time well spent.
- I ran three wires down the US DS rail - 1X14ga power, 2X16ga for the switch (more than needed for this application, but what I had on hand). For certain parts, the wire is run in split loom, but without taking a lot more apart, I couldn't fit split loom alongside the main wiring harness under the door trim etc. The wire runs into the jack storage location in the rear.
- The relay is mounted in the jack stoarge area and is wired as follows:
(1) One 14ga, 10A fused at battery, wire from battery positive to post 30 on the relay
(2) 14ga from post 87 on relay to positive connection on light (more on this later!)
(3) 16ga wire from post 86 to dash switch (I wired it to the yellow wire coming off the OEM switch)
(4) 16ga wire tapped/spliced into the parking light circuit (positive side) at rear and run forward to the OEM switch (I connected to the red wire on the OEM switch). Check your wiring diagram, but for my truck (97 LX450), I tapped into a solid green wire coming off the connection/plug. The wire changes to a red with green tracer on the bulb side of the plug (wouldn't it be easier if the cable stayed the same colour?) - in any case, if you're not sure, use a multimeter to check for 12V with the parking light on - that's what I did before I started cutting into everything.
(5) 16ga (may have been 14ga?) from post 85 on relay to the negative side of the parking light circuit. In my truck, spliced into a white wire ground wire.
(6) the wires to the lights are run through the grommet that also has the rear sun roof drain, then in conduit to the light (above the frame, etc). There is also a wiring loom grommet further aft, but it was so stuffed, I decided to use the drain location
(7) I have not yet wired the light on the OEM switch (two green wired on the switch) - I assume all I need to do is run it to the dimmer, but didn't have the time.
I had basically wired everything and tested and found everything to work without problem. So, I spent the time mounting the light, putting the wires away, etc. I then turned on the lights and hit the switch - no fog light?! @#*&%XXX!!
Checked the connections quickly and all seemed to be fine. Checked the fuse on the postive lead - blown. Human nature being what it is (at least mine), I proceeded to put in a new fuse and blow it every time I turned on the switch. I did this about four times thinking that the system would just 'self correct'
It took a few minutes to realize the problem (something like - the only difference to the system is attaching the light to the frame and now it's shorting). The problem was when I tested the system, I just had the bulb wired and sitting on the rear tailgate. When I put it in the light, my positive wire to the light touched the metal on the light (by design), which connected to the frame (ground) and shorted the system.
All I had to do was switch my 12V postive cable to the 'negative' terminal on the light (which is insulated from the light's metal casing). Right now the circuit at the light is completed by grounding to the frame (I have run a negative wire too, but not attached - couldn't find the ground point at the rear of the truck).
I'm sure you could do the same wiring the relay in the engine compartment and using direct connect to battery, parking lights, etc.
For next year's wheeling season, I need to wire in a waterproof quick disconnect under the truck. I have the Slee aux light harness and all I need to do for front fog lights is plug them in and drill some holes (Hella 4000s here I come) - stay tuned, they should be on by 2006!
Cheers, Hugh
, but it ended up taking me over a year (I'm no expert, but this may be of use to someone):- I mounted one, red, Hella rear fog light wired to an OEM switch. My light is wired to run as long as the parking lights are on (ie not just wired off the battery to prevent running my battery flat)
- I used a stock bolt location on the underside of the bumper (US DS), just outboard of the tow point. I had to drill-out the hole and captive nut to fit the light. If you're careful, and pull straight, you can still use the tow point - about 4" of room. I plan to take the light off when I off-road - not easy, but likely 10-15 min time well spent.
- I ran three wires down the US DS rail - 1X14ga power, 2X16ga for the switch (more than needed for this application, but what I had on hand). For certain parts, the wire is run in split loom, but without taking a lot more apart, I couldn't fit split loom alongside the main wiring harness under the door trim etc. The wire runs into the jack storage location in the rear.
- The relay is mounted in the jack stoarge area and is wired as follows:
(1) One 14ga, 10A fused at battery, wire from battery positive to post 30 on the relay
(2) 14ga from post 87 on relay to positive connection on light (more on this later!)
(3) 16ga wire from post 86 to dash switch (I wired it to the yellow wire coming off the OEM switch)
(4) 16ga wire tapped/spliced into the parking light circuit (positive side) at rear and run forward to the OEM switch (I connected to the red wire on the OEM switch). Check your wiring diagram, but for my truck (97 LX450), I tapped into a solid green wire coming off the connection/plug. The wire changes to a red with green tracer on the bulb side of the plug (wouldn't it be easier if the cable stayed the same colour?) - in any case, if you're not sure, use a multimeter to check for 12V with the parking light on - that's what I did before I started cutting into everything.
(5) 16ga (may have been 14ga?) from post 85 on relay to the negative side of the parking light circuit. In my truck, spliced into a white wire ground wire.
(6) the wires to the lights are run through the grommet that also has the rear sun roof drain, then in conduit to the light (above the frame, etc). There is also a wiring loom grommet further aft, but it was so stuffed, I decided to use the drain location
(7) I have not yet wired the light on the OEM switch (two green wired on the switch) - I assume all I need to do is run it to the dimmer, but didn't have the time.
I had basically wired everything and tested and found everything to work without problem. So, I spent the time mounting the light, putting the wires away, etc. I then turned on the lights and hit the switch - no fog light?! @#*&%XXX!!
Checked the connections quickly and all seemed to be fine. Checked the fuse on the postive lead - blown. Human nature being what it is (at least mine), I proceeded to put in a new fuse and blow it every time I turned on the switch. I did this about four times thinking that the system would just 'self correct'
It took a few minutes to realize the problem (something like - the only difference to the system is attaching the light to the frame and now it's shorting). The problem was when I tested the system, I just had the bulb wired and sitting on the rear tailgate. When I put it in the light, my positive wire to the light touched the metal on the light (by design), which connected to the frame (ground) and shorted the system.
All I had to do was switch my 12V postive cable to the 'negative' terminal on the light (which is insulated from the light's metal casing). Right now the circuit at the light is completed by grounding to the frame (I have run a negative wire too, but not attached - couldn't find the ground point at the rear of the truck).
I'm sure you could do the same wiring the relay in the engine compartment and using direct connect to battery, parking lights, etc.
For next year's wheeling season, I need to wire in a waterproof quick disconnect under the truck. I have the Slee aux light harness and all I need to do for front fog lights is plug them in and drill some holes (Hella 4000s here I come) - stay tuned, they should be on by 2006!
Cheers, Hugh
Sorry, don't mean to start up an old thread but I was wondering if any of you out there have pics of any of the above mentioned rear light setups.
