Finally got around to doing this after putting it off for near two years. Like many, I had experienced the "sticky" actuator, tried "exercising" them, got it to work most times, sometimes just lived without it, etc. Last month it actually got stuck in the locked position with about 200 highway miles between me and home. The trick that time was to actually just let the truck cool down for four hours and everything moved just enough to let me unlock it.
I've rebuilt the front and I will say IMO, it is harder than the rear. For those that have considered it, I say go to it, it's not that hard - seriously. But my one caveat, is that this is NOT intended to be an exhaustive "rebuild" or to be used instead of a good FSM. I'm not posting torque specs or much of any detail. This is just some pics to assist those that like a visual to go along with the text - kind of like comic books...
First is removing the guard. Two 14-mm nuts on the diff studs (right side of pic) and one 10-mm bolt on top to the left.
Second, disconnect the two wire harnesses and breather tube. Three 10-mm bolts hold the switch cover plate. The manual describes removing the switch first. I did not and didn't have any negative consequences
Third, remove the switch cover plate. It is held there with just FIPG or ??? depending on whose been there before. A very fine edged putty knife and some gentle tapping with a rubber mallet did the trick.
I've rebuilt the front and I will say IMO, it is harder than the rear. For those that have considered it, I say go to it, it's not that hard - seriously. But my one caveat, is that this is NOT intended to be an exhaustive "rebuild" or to be used instead of a good FSM. I'm not posting torque specs or much of any detail. This is just some pics to assist those that like a visual to go along with the text - kind of like comic books...
First is removing the guard. Two 14-mm nuts on the diff studs (right side of pic) and one 10-mm bolt on top to the left.
Second, disconnect the two wire harnesses and breather tube. Three 10-mm bolts hold the switch cover plate. The manual describes removing the switch first. I did not and didn't have any negative consequences
Third, remove the switch cover plate. It is held there with just FIPG or ??? depending on whose been there before. A very fine edged putty knife and some gentle tapping with a rubber mallet did the trick.
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