Rear door catchplate

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Part 14 on this page:

136C.gif


Specter Off-Road-Land Cruiser Parts - Page 136-Rear Doors 1975-1984 40 Series

Screw heads broke off on removal, extractor snapped in remains of screw, in general a bugger up of note :crybaby:

So here is the question: Where is the best place to cut the sill to remove that plate, and insert an new one?
 

M5driver

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Part 14 on this page:

Screw heads broke off on removal, extractor snapped in remains of screw, in general a bugger up of note :crybaby:

So here is the question: Where is the best place to cut the sill to remove that plate, and insert an new one?

Teebag,

I had this same thing happen. Don't cut the sill. Look underneath - there is a thin metal bit that the nut plate slips into. I didn't have the replacement part when I did this, so I bent the metal piece out of the way, removed the plate with the seized screw ends, and used stainless screws and stainless flange nuts until I tore the mule down. I haven't decided whether to buy the plate or just cut that bit off and stay with the stainless hardware, but I'm favoring the latter.
:cheers:
 
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That sucks. I've got a broken extractor under one of my running boards. I'm ignoring it. Best of luck.

Great pics on the LCCSA website. I'm waiting for my confirmation to check out the gallery...
 
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Dan, I would like to see your solution if you have any pics ? My screws are all seized top and bottom but I haven't tried to extract them yet...:frown:
 

M5driver

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Dan, I would like to see your solution if you have any pics ? My screws are all seized top and bottom but I haven't tried to extract them yet...:frown:

Theo,
I will try to get a photo of the rear sill underside this afternoon. The bottom plate is easy to get to. The upper one is inside that header bar, and you would have to break that apart to replace it. After breaking the lower scerws, I was very careful with the upper ones - soaked them with Q20 for several days, then used a manual impact driver to try to start them out. Worked for one screw, stripped the head on the other, so I had to resort to a chisel to turn it. Once I got them to start turning, more Q20 and slowly eased them out. Cleaned up the threads in the plate with a tap, and then ran new stainless screws into them with antiseize. When I put it back together, I will clean the threads again.

:cheers:
Dan
 
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Mr Marx you have to break your screws 1st, before Dan's solution will work :hillbilly:

My Dremel may also help with the top ones, so don't break those yet ;)
 

M5driver

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Dan, I would like to see your solution if you have any pics ? My screws are all seized top and bottom but I haven't tried to extract them yet...:frown:

Theo,
Here's a pic of the underside of the sill. You can see the bits where I cut off the little cage that traps the screw plate. I couldn't find any pix before I cut that off :frown: It's pretty easy to figure out when you see it - just stick a flat blade up there and pry it down. Since that one is easy to get too, I decided not to weld the piece back on - I'll stick with the stainless flange nuts under there. HTH

:) Dan
Sill-underside.jpg
 

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