Rear Differential Fluid Change

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Man, I can not get the fill plug off. There seems to be some red liquid that solidified and the plug is stuck in there... Any ideas?

Sounds like someone used red (High strength/permanent) threadlocker on the plug. :rolleyes:

Loctite FAQ

Q: I cannot get an assembly apart where a threadlocker was used. What solvent will break the threadlocker down?

A: No solvent will wick into the joint to break the threadlocker down. This is either hand tool removable at room temperature or if not, it requires high temperatures of 450-600°F to separate parts. The products are thermoset plastics in the cured state that soften at higher temperatures. Thus, you need to disassemble while at the higher softening point temperature. Do not let this cool down first. Otherwise, it will resoldify. Solvents like methyl ethyl keytone and methylene chloride can be used for clean up of residue only after disassembly.​

Time to break out the torch.
 
Son of a bitch... Who threadlocks something like that?
 
mine was screwed in pretty tight too, but no thread lock. I ended up mangling the hell out of it using a hand sledge and old screw driver (trying to knock some twist into it). after that failed, i hammered an old socket onto it (it held pretty tight because the sides were mangled), and used an electric impact driver, it finally broke loose. i think i paid ~$120 for the electric impact driver at sears, useful for rotating tires and removing stubborn drain bolts :) its a decent way to go for those who dont have air tools...
 
Man, I can not get the fill plug off. There seems to be some red liquid that solidified and the plug is stuck in there... Any ideas?

The "Red Gunk" sounds suspiciously like Red Locktite.

You may need to apply heat to soften the thread locker.
 
Sounds like someone used red (High strength/permanent) threadlocker on the plug. :rolleyes:

Loctite FAQ

Q: I cannot get an assembly apart where a threadlocker was used. What solvent will break the threadlocker down?

A: No solvent will wick into the joint to break the threadlocker down. This is either hand tool removable at room temperature or if not, it requires high temperatures of 450-600°F to separate parts. The products are thermoset plastics in the cured state that soften at higher temperatures. Thus, you need to disassemble while at the higher softening point temperature. Do not let this cool down first. Otherwise, it will resoldify. Solvents like methyl ethyl keytone and methylene chloride can be used for clean up of residue only after disassembly.​

Time to break out the torch.
:doh: beat me to it.
 
Son of a bitch... Who threadlocks something like that?
Good question.

Even if you felt compelled to use thread locker at least use the correct type. In this case Locktite Blue which is classified as removable and for use on fasteners with light oil contamination.
 
Pic of the pump used to fill front diff. Also, ARB carrier takes up slightly more volume than factory carrier. So amount of 90wt is slightly decreased. Replace fluid more often with heavy use. Couple times a year is my program.

Yeah this pump made the job very easy and less messy.

Question. My truck has 204k. Bought it with 193k. Rear diff fluid was in good shape, some shavings on plug but nothing to be concerned
With. What was concerning was the hiss when the fill plug came loose. Does this suggestion of pressure mean my rear breather line is clogged?
 
Yeah this pump made the job very easy and less messy.

Question. My truck has 204k. Bought it with 193k. Rear diff fluid was in good shape, some shavings on plug but nothing to be concerned
With. What was concerning was the hiss when the fill plug came loose. Does this suggestion of pressure mean my rear breather line is clogged?

I believe that it could be normal if you'd driven your truck not too long before that. Everything went from cold to hot and pressure would build pretty quick. It may not have all released through the breather when you opened it up. Someone else smarter than me may have a better explanation.
 
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I believe that it could be normal if you'd driven your truck not too long before that. Everything went from cold to hot and pressure would build pretty quick. It may not have all released through the breather when you opened it up. Someone else smarter than me may have a better explanation.

God point. I'll check but common sense dictates that a plugged breather would cause a leak/ drip somewhere I would think.
 
It takes only a couple minutes to check/clear the breather. I would do it just for piece of mind.
 
Just changed oil in my rear diff. Approx 8 small metal shavings on the drain plug magnet. Each was size and shape of an infants fingernail clipping. 85k on the truck; it's an 03. Should I be worried?
 
This is when you worry...and don't ask me how I know:



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Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD while navigating gnarly trail. Typos are inherent.

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FYI - Fasteners that have been Loctite'd can also be "creeped" off. Hold some some (35+ ft lbs in this case) torque in the loosen direction for several seconds and it should creep loose.
Threadlocker PSA - Do not use threadlocker on any thread bigger than M6 (1/4") with few exceptions
 
There is nothing wrong with using never seize on drain plug. I use permatex liguid teflon sealant, helps seal and helps to keep from seizing. I have used never seize on many a diff fill and drain plugs without issue. It is far better than having to drill out a seized one.
 

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