Rear dif cover 94 3x lock. (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

How worried or concerned will I be when it comes to drilling out the threads?
I like to avoid that as much as possible. if you use one of the methods i mentioned you shouldn't need to drill it. looks like a tough angle and that steel bolt you want to drill out is much harder then the aluminum and your drill can get off center very easy.
 
I like to avoid that as much as possible. if you use one of the methods i mentioned you shouldn't need to drill it. looks like a tough angle and that steel bolt you want to drill out is much harder then the aluminum and your drill can get off center very easy.
So wait if I use a air chisel, that would take the head of the bolt off. Leaving the threads, so how do I get those out?
 
Ok so I need advice. 1 how tf is the best way to get these off or out. Rear dif actuator top bolts. I assume po dicked w it as bottom 2 came out no issue and these 2 were already rounded. I've been at it for 3 days now. Pb blaster and heating. I dont have a welder. Angle to grind drill and tap is iffy. Any options??? I dont think its safe to drive it the way its torn apart.
View attachment 3975948
When i ran into problems like this with customers cars that had lots of rust. I would take a small die grinder with a sanding disk and grind the head of the bolt flat, Then i had a clean surface to weld to. I would then weld a nut onto the rusted bolt, now i had something i could put a socket on. Another plus to welding a nut to that rusted bolt, the heat from welding will help to loosen that bolt.

I do have to say i don't miss working on cars with rust, dealing with bolts like what you're dealing with always turned what was a 15 minute job, into a 3 hour job.

Once you get your diff lock housing removed the next item you need to work on is the wiring harness going to the diff lock indicator switch.
 
Last edited:
So wait if I use a air chisel, that would take the head of the bolt off. Leaving the threads, so how do I get those out?
If you do it right the chisel will loosen the bolt and then you can screw it out. There are no guarantees this will work but it usually does.
 
This is where I am at. So ****ing close. I cant get the rest of this s*** off. 4 days now.
1000012068.webp
 
Alright sooo update. Got bolts out. W gash where it is and not really weight bearing i see no reason why rtv wont hold so nothing leaks out. My question is, im putting a none working one in. I may use the center and front locker if I need to but is there anything special I need to do? Or can I just put this in same as other came out?

20250829_184716.webp
 

Users who are viewing this thread

  • Back
    Top Bottom