Rear defroster shot

[Spook50]

Have tried both the permatex and the frost fighter and both are essentially the same thing, copper repair paint for the lines. Both have "somewhat" worked in that there are sections that they have brought functionality back. However, neither have brought back full functionality. Best is that it has brought back large "spots" that will defrost but never 100% consistent.

Would love to be able to remove the glass, get rid of the old lines completely and then replace with one of the FrostFighter stick on kits. Have actually thought about just doing the FrostFighter kit over the old and calling it good as from my measurements the lines are approximately the same distance apart. Main worry would be how the lines adhere to the glass, full clear film with lines vs. lines on a sheet that is then adhered ala vinyl sticker type, as whether they would fog over time.

I was wondering the same thing. A totally transparent defogger would be awesome too.
Haven't really looked into seeing if anything like that is even available for public purchase though. Regardless, even with a new grid, I would want some clear film over it to protect it from nicks and scratches over time. A clear UV protectant tint would be ideal, given that you could then do all your windows and have your interior UV protected and resistant to sun fade, without the darkening from regular tints that I (and I'm sure others) wouldn't want.

 

[gregnash]

This is what I was thinking about getting to replace the original. I would hopefully mount all lines close enough to old stock lines that it would be almost seamless.

Clear View Aftermarket Defrosters and Defoggers

Clear View aftermarket defrosters new and replacement, 12 and 24 volt

www.frostfighter.com

 

[cdv3286]

So I tried the rear defrost this morning on mine when I needed it and no luck. How are you all trouble shooting to determine if it is the grid vs power vs switch? How do I test to make sure that power is going to the grid (and if it is how much should it be)? There is a little black box on the window which I am assuming where this check will be conducted... power in to that box should be a simple measurement... but no idea what is supposed to be coming out of it? Thanks!

 

[Seth S]

So I tried the rear defrost this morning on mine when I needed it and no luck. How are you all trouble shooting to determine if it is the grid vs power vs switch? How do I test to make sure that power is going to the grid (and if it is how much should it be)? There is a little black box on the window which I am assuming where this check will be conducted... power in to that box should be a simple measurement... but no idea what is supposed to be coming out of it? Thanks!

You should start by checking for continuity between the connectors on the rear window. This wont tell you if any off the wires are bad but it will confirm that at least one element still works. Then I would check to see if I was getting power and ground to the rear elements at the connector when the switch was on.

 

[Seth S]

If your rear elements are toast you might investigate some of the 12v car heater options....they seem to range from the cheap wal mart variety to the crazy expensive side. But I've often contemplated having a 12v heater/fan setup to speed up the window clearing process.

 

[86aggie]

The Factory repair manual has a step by step method of how to locate breaks in the defrost lines. Some breaks can not be readily visible.