Yes, in your case the temp sensor is the forward connector, pump is adjacent to the firewall - reversed from the left hand drive configuration. Forgot about the change in orientation - at least I got the pressure sensor correct!
Rear Coil Spring Identification.
- Thread starter Amazo
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
1 out of 3 is pretty good where I come from :-D
So I've been cranking away at the TBs this morning and achieved the best balance I could with the temp sensor plug still attached to the pump.
I cranked them both 3 turns and got a significant improvement front and rear. I guessed about 8 turns would do it.
I then ran out of adjustment on the drivers side at 4.75 turns. I have a very slight lean to the left so I cranked the left side up to 10 turns. This helped the lean but started putting the back pressure up higher. Long story short, I ended up at 4.75 turns right and 5 turns left. This gave me readings of 7.2F and 6.8R. Just in spec front and just out of spec at the rear.
Since then 2 things have happened.
1) Paddo confirmed the wire to remove from the pump when checking the rear.
2) I read the pdf from the FSM again and noticed it said "adjust it (suspension) with no passengers are in". I understand this rightly or wrongly that there is to be
no-one in the car, not even me.
Both of these things make a difference to the readings on Techstream.
So my final readings are:
No-one in the car and pump temp wire disconnected: Front 6.7mpa and Rear 6.8mpa.
No-one in the car with pump temp wire connected: Front 6.7mpa and Rear 6.3mpa.
Me in the drivers seat and pump temp wire disconnected: Front 7.2mpa and Rear 7.2mpa.
Me in the car and pump temp wire connected: Front 7.2mpa and Rear 6.8mpa.
I believe the top set of results are probably the correct ones. That's assuming that "No Passenger" in the FSM means the driver/operator should also be outside the car. It makes a big difference and I would imagine a lot of people using Techstream are sitting in the car like me.
So that leaves me with the front pressure back in spec but the rear just a tad out of spec. After a test drive or 2 (not had time yet) I will judge if the adjustments have improved things. If not I'll be looking for some rear springs. So what's it to be, Pink or Purple? :-D :-D
So I've been cranking away at the TBs this morning and achieved the best balance I could with the temp sensor plug still attached to the pump.
I cranked them both 3 turns and got a significant improvement front and rear. I guessed about 8 turns would do it.
I then ran out of adjustment on the drivers side at 4.75 turns. I have a very slight lean to the left so I cranked the left side up to 10 turns. This helped the lean but started putting the back pressure up higher. Long story short, I ended up at 4.75 turns right and 5 turns left. This gave me readings of 7.2F and 6.8R. Just in spec front and just out of spec at the rear.
Since then 2 things have happened.
1) Paddo confirmed the wire to remove from the pump when checking the rear.
2) I read the pdf from the FSM again and noticed it said "adjust it (suspension) with no passengers are in". I understand this rightly or wrongly that there is to be
no-one in the car, not even me.
Both of these things make a difference to the readings on Techstream.
So my final readings are:
No-one in the car and pump temp wire disconnected: Front 6.7mpa and Rear 6.8mpa.
No-one in the car with pump temp wire connected: Front 6.7mpa and Rear 6.3mpa.
Me in the drivers seat and pump temp wire disconnected: Front 7.2mpa and Rear 7.2mpa.
Me in the car and pump temp wire connected: Front 7.2mpa and Rear 6.8mpa.
I believe the top set of results are probably the correct ones. That's assuming that "No Passenger" in the FSM means the driver/operator should also be outside the car. It makes a big difference and I would imagine a lot of people using Techstream are sitting in the car like me.
So that leaves me with the front pressure back in spec but the rear just a tad out of spec. After a test drive or 2 (not had time yet) I will judge if the adjustments have improved things. If not I'll be looking for some rear springs. So what's it to be, Pink or Purple? :-D :-D
2001LC
SILVER Star
Sorry I was only thinking of USA rigs with LH (left hand) drive and PS being RH (right hand) side. It's my understanding the longer thicker coil spring is on side LH DS (driver side) to compensate for fuel tank, which is in USA is LH DS.
IDK, but it could also have something to do with USA rigs are built with front differential, forward propeller shaft and transfer case on RH side. By this a mean cross counter balance for the extra weight of those drive train components. Is your front diff on LH or RH?
- Thread starter
- #24
Just had a quick look underneath and the fuel tank is left side like yours.
I'm going to show my ignorance now and admit I don't know where the front different is without pulling the under trays off. Only had the car a few weeks. Looking from above the engine bay, the left side looks relatively empty and nothing resembling a diff. On the right hand side it's quite busy, but there is a largish item that I can see in the darkness that looks like it could be a diff. It lines up with the wheel centre, so a definite maybe on the RH side!
I'm going to show my ignorance now and admit I don't know where the front different is without pulling the under trays off. Only had the car a few weeks. Looking from above the engine bay, the left side looks relatively empty and nothing resembling a diff. On the right hand side it's quite busy, but there is a largish item that I can see in the darkness that looks like it could be a diff. It lines up with the wheel centre, so a definite maybe on the RH side!
2001LC
SILVER Star
Easy way to look is from under the rig. Look for transfer case from back mid RH area looking toward the front. I'll bet it hang off RH side of transmission.
BTW: Transfer case has propeller shaft (AKA: drive shaft) going from transfer case to differential (one to rear, one to front) that both need lubing at 3 grease zerks on each. Two spider joint (AKA, U-joint) and one for slide yoke on each propeller shaft. Grease every 5K mile, or after each sand or water crossing day. Read up on lubing before hand, risk of over lubing creating excessive pressure.
Note in this picture rear slide yoke is closest to transfer case, some are closest to rear differential.
Note: RH or LH is always as you sit in rig looking forward.
BTW: Transfer case has propeller shaft (AKA: drive shaft) going from transfer case to differential (one to rear, one to front) that both need lubing at 3 grease zerks on each. Two spider joint (AKA, U-joint) and one for slide yoke on each propeller shaft. Grease every 5K mile, or after each sand or water crossing day. Read up on lubing before hand, risk of over lubing creating excessive pressure.
Note in this picture rear slide yoke is closest to transfer case, some are closest to rear differential.
Note: RH or LH is always as you sit in rig looking forward.
2001LC
SILVER Star
One more though, with steering on RH you have additional weight on right. So spring for your rig may have different sizes (color code) then we see.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I've always noticed when lifting with my floor jack LH is heaver. I just noticed in above FSM picture of lube points, it shows engine and transmission sets offset to LH side.
- Thread starter
- #28
Yep, everything looking exactly like yours, all hanging off to the right.
So the fuel tank is left, the engine and gearbox are left, in the USA the driver and steering gear is left, so no wonder the tougher spring is needed on that side.
In fact the whole car is so left that I feel I should gain a little weight to help counteract it!
Thanks for the info re lubrication. There'll be no river or desert crossings for me though
, so it's 5k intervals. Luckily it's just been done in April.
So the fuel tank is left, the engine and gearbox are left, in the USA the driver and steering gear is left, so no wonder the tougher spring is needed on that side.
In fact the whole car is so left that I feel I should gain a little weight to help counteract it!
Thanks for the info re lubrication. There'll be no river or desert crossings for me though
, so it's 5k intervals. Luckily it's just been done in April.
