rear brake pad replacement --

[erics_bruisers]

I'm changing the rear pads on my '94 and am at a bit of a loss --

-- wheel's off, and there are two big MF bolts (17MM) --

-- to remove the brake caliper, the FSM says merely "remove the sliding pin and the sliding sub pin" --

-- and the picture has some guy's hand with a ratchet --

-- so, is there ratcheting or not to do this?

I was at this same spot last weekend on the fronts, and this board saved me big time --

THANKS!

e

 

[landtank]

There is what is called sliding pins on the rear. They have a hex head on them. They are only threaded a short amount up near the head, the raet is smooth as so the cliper can slide on it. They are located near the top of the caliper just to either side of the pad travelling in the same direction as the axle.

 

[erics_bruisers]

Thanks for the help, Raven and Rick --

-- I got the top bolt off and slipped the caliper up just enough to see there's plenty of meat left on the pads --

-- the bottom bolted is FAWKED though -- didn't strip it, but will need to replace it -- I'm going to have my mechanic do it -- I used anti-seize and all on it, and it still wouldn't budge -- the crown on the hex is now a bit mangled -- anyway, I'll have them replace it --

-- the front pads are a joy to change, compared to the rear nightmare --

e

PS -- broke the wheel-nut, too -- the keyed one --

 

[Klunky Chris]

yea, the rear calipers are kinda wierd....

you pull the 2 sliding pins. Mine were frozen tight, and I had to scrap one cali[er because a Thundergun couldn't get the sliding pin out...... spensive....

you have to put the pads, metal squeel plates, and wear indicator clips in the two halves of the caliper and over the rotor before you can screw the 2 sliding pins back in.

 

[Junk]

Klunky, with that gun on high, how could those not come out? You can get a real solid bite on those bolts. They couldn't have been out TOO long ago.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Eric,

You don't have to pull anything apart in order to assess the rear pad condition/thickness. Once the wheel's off, you simply remove the thin metal shield on the forward surface of the caliper (single allen bolts top and bottom) and you can see the pads and rotor.

DougM

 

[e9999]

metal shield? what metal shield? don't remember no metal shield...
Mine had an open slot you can just peek in.

Eric, I hope you meant some sort of Kroil thing by anti-seize right? cuz the anti-seize compound goes on when you put the bolts on (at least that's what I do) not when you try to remove them...

E

 

[Klunky Chris]

[quote author=Junk link=board=2;threadid=16449;start=msg158177#msg158177 date=1084760725]
Klunky, with that gun on high, how could those not come out? You can get a real solid bite on those bolts. They couldn't have been out TOO long ago.
[/quote]

yup, the Thundergun was beaten. Had us all amazed. I think the pin was actually bent and wedged in the caliper. This might have happened from uneven brake pressure due to the pin being siezed, or it could have bent from the breaker bar and vice I was using at home
Either way it was toast.

I still have it if you want a go