Rear Brake Hose Remove and Replacement (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Sep 9, 2016
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3,113
Location
Odessa/Midland TX
Demonstration purposes only.
If you have NOT done any brake related repairs, you should NOT attempt this job:

Model Year 2000 with ATRAC meaning there are 2 flexible hoses per a wheel in the rear (See post-6 below for images). Non-ATRAC has 3 (one hose from body to rear axle; then two for two calipers), while ATRAC models have 4: two hoses from body to rear axle, 2 for two calipers.

Part numbers:
90947-02F31 (Body to axle: Rear LEFT); The mounting surface to the bracket/ear is hexagonal [NOTE: partsouq was out on this so I bought 90947-02F30 made for RIGHT and file off some edges to fit into the opening in the mounting bracket and this hose is about an inch longer than the original]: See second pic for this "mod" Gray Blue colored ring shows original look before filing and the orange rings show after filing (bottom/other end of the hose). You must do this for both ends]
90947-02F26 (Axle to caliper Rear LEFT)
90947-02F30 (Body to axle: Rear RIGHT); Th mounting surface to the bracket/ear is oval
90947-02F25 (Axle to caliper: Rear RIGHT)

Tools
14 mm
10 mm
Most IMPORTANTLY the small IRWIN wise grip to loosen the 10 mm bolts in metal lines (Pictured below). I HIGHLY advice to have this tool ready before attempting this job.

It is best to get all joints/threads bit wet with water and brush off all dirt using a tooth brush or similar, then blow off dirt with compressed air to make the work area clean and to have a clean install.

I clamped a wise grip on the hose between body and axle to stop the flow of fluid, and started installing the caliper banjo bolt 14 mm. I reused the cupper washers. No drips and was clean job! The tackled the hose on the axle.. still no fluid drips... until you get to the joint on the body above the pumpkin!

Once all are done - double and triple check for any leaks
Check the fluid inside the reservoir: make sure it is at proper level.
Turn the ignition on and bleed the brakes by having someone to press the brake and HOLD while another crack open the bleeder: CAUTION have a small hose attached to the nipple and direct it to a waste collection bottle.. it will basically eject fluid at very high speed. Close the nipple and do the other side. Then CHECK ALL JOINTS for any leaks. I located 2 joints... Engine off... I loosen the joint about 90 degrees and tighten about 120 degrees.. and then checked again with ignition on and foot on brake. No more leaks!

20250426_120847.jpg


20250426_114512.jpg
 
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Post Assessment:
Brake fluid is 3 years old and is clean as new!

The brake paddle is pretty solid! just a simple touch can slow down the car from 35 mph to a stop, while prior to the repair, the paddle was bit spongy and needed some force to come to a stop (no air in the system, as I did the entire brake master pump OEM new on 2022, and I am still on the same 3 year oil fluid). Seems the old hoses were expanding with applied pressure. Next is front!
 
Last edited:
Demonstration purposes only.
If you have NOT done any brake related repairs, you should NOT attempt this job:

Model Year 2000 with ATRAC meaning there are 2 flexible hoses per a wheel in the rear. Non-ATRAC has 3 (one hose from body to rear axle; then two for two calipers), while ATRAC models have 4: two hoses from body to rear axle, 2 for two calipers.

Part numbers:
90947-02F31 (Body to axle: Rear LEFT); The mounting surface to the bracket/ear is hexagonal [NOTE: partsouq was out on this so I bought 90947-02F30 made for RIGHT and file off some edges to fit into the opening in the mounting bracket and this hose is about an inch longer than the original]: See second pic for this "mod" Gray Blue colored ring shows original look before filing and the orange rings show after filing (bottom/other end of the hose). You must do this for both ends]
90947-02F26 (Axle to caliper Rear LEFT)
90947-02F30 (Body to axle: Rear RIGHT); Th mounting surface to the bracket/ear is oval
90947-02F25 (Axle to caliper: Rear RIGHT)

Tools
14 mm
10 mm
Most IMPORTANTLY the small IRWIN wise grip to loosen the 10 mm bolts in metal lines (Pictured below). I HIGHLY advice to have this tool ready before attempting this job.

It is best to get all joints/threads bit wet with water and brush off all dirt using a tooth brush or similar, then blow off dirt with compressed air to make the work area clean and to have a clean install.

I clamped a wise grip on the hose between body and axle to stop the flow of fluid, and started installing the caliper banjo bolt 14 mm. I reused the cupper washers. No drips and was clean job! The tackled the hose on the axle.. still no fluid drips... until you get to the joint on the body above the pumpkin!

Once all are done - double and triple check for any leaks
Check the fluid inside the reservoir: make sure it is at proper level.
Turn the ignition on and bleed the brakes by having someone to press the brake and HOLD while another crack open the bleeder: CAUTION have a small hose attached to the nipple and direct it to a waste collection bottle.. it will basically eject fluid at very high speed. Close the nipple and do the other side. Then CHECK ALL JOINTS for any leaks. I located 2 joints... Engine off... I loosen the joint about 90 degrees and tighten about 120 degrees.. and then checked again with ignition on and foot on brake. No more leaks!

View attachment 3893323

View attachment 3893358
That's my favorite brake tool. That and superzilla (which doesn't work for squat on anything it's advertised for, but it will eat brake fluid induced rust like nobody's business).
 
Hey @nissanh , thanks for the thread, interesting to hear that you got such a dramatic improvement from replacing the hoses, did you get any additional work done at the same time? Calipers for example?

Also, thanks for that tool heads up, never seen it before, my wallet is happy to lose some weight.. Do you have the 4in or 7in vise grip?

Just a quick question, seems like the hoses don't come with the washer, part 47389-50020. Did you have to replace these? Or they can be reused?

Mine have 290k miles on them, I think I'll add it to the list for next brake job, which it's planned together with bearing repack in about 20k miles..
 
4 hoses:
1st Pic: Rear Left From Frame to Axle: This is the hose that has a hexagonal mounting surface to the mounting ears on the frame
2nd Pic: Rear Right from Frame to Axle
3rd Pic: Rear Left From Axle to Caliper
4th Pic: Rear Right From Axle to Caliper

DSCN2481.JPG


DSCN2480.JPG


DSCN2482.JPG


DSCN2484.JPG
 
Hey @nissanh , thanks for the thread, interesting to hear that you got such a dramatic improvement from replacing the hoses, did you get any additional work done at the same time? Calipers for example?

Also, thanks for that tool heads up, never seen it before, my wallet is happy to lose some weight.. Do you have the 4in or 7in vise grip?

Just a quick question, seems like the hoses don't come with the washer, part 47389-50020. Did you have to replace these? Or they can be reused?

Mine have 290k miles on them, I think I'll add it to the list for next brake job, which it's planned together with bearing repack in about 20k miles..

You're Welcome!

Yes, just the hoses and yes it does as I have experienced after replacing all hoses in my corolla, 4runner and hilux. The theory is the flexible hose will expand when a pressure is applied, when it is new, this expansion is minimum. As it gets older, the expansion is much greater putting less pressure in the hydraulic system so you have to press the brake paddle even more.

I reused the two cupper washers at the banjo joints. The 10 mm bolts on all hoses are pretty tight. If the wise grip is about to slip: STOP.. make the jaw a bit smaller and try again. I usually swing back and forward about 5 to 10 degrees until it comes loose... HINT: Cleaning all threads and the gap between the bolt and metal brake hose will surely make the job pleasant. I sprayed water, brushed with a tooth brush and compressed air.

I have a 4 inch wise grip, used only for smaller nuts. If possible buy the Irwin brand as it has worked 100% on all my brake jobs.

Good Luck!
 
I replaced my hoses with braided steel hose kit from Slee, with fluid flush, and had a noticeable improvement. Before, many times I would pump brakes before hard braking.
 

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