rear brake bleeder valves destroyed, how to remove? (1 Viewer)

[NaterGator]

Agreed on the 12 point... however:
if you are having so much trouble with your vice grips, grab a file and try to sharpen the definition on the 'teeth' of them. Mine had begun to slip a bunch and I took a file to them just clear everything out and redefine their bite, and it worked well. Just a tip

 

[concretejungle]

thread revival...

so i purchased some speed bleeders to replace my bleeders. Front two calipers went in like butter. LSVP went in great. And then there are the two rear calipers

finally took the caliper off and put it on the bench. I've tried heat, hammering, tapping, more heat, PB blaster for over a month, vice grips. No work. I even finally hammered on a cheap old 12 point wrench on it and it just spun.

How the heck am i going to get this thing out? Sorry for the bad pics.

 

[chibo]

You've really tried vice grips (putting it in to the point that you're hurting your hands to lock it) and a bar on the end of the vice grips? Caliper in a vice or something, of course.

 

[concretejungle]

You've really tried vice grips (putting it in to the point that you're hurting your hands to lock it) and a bar on the end of the vice grips? Caliper in a vice or something, of course.

yep, and a pipe wrench.

 

[gotmud]

1. Remove calipers
2. Drill out bleeder
3. Retap hole
4. Rebuild caliper
5. Install new bleeder
6. Install caliper

 

[motorcoach123]

I would heat the bleeders red hot and then quench them with cold water....hammer on a six point socket.......FWIW.

Gord

 

[John Smith]

thread revival...

so i purchased some speed bleeders to replace my bleeders. Front two calipers went in like butter. LSVP went in great. And then there are the two rear calipers

finally took the caliper off and put it on the bench. I've tried heat, hammering, tapping, more heat, PB blaster for over a month, vice grips. No work. I even finally hammered on a cheap old 12 point wrench on it and it just spun.

How the heck am i going to get this thing out? Sorry for the bad pics.

It looks like you have barely rounded that thing. Me thinks you need much larger vise grips or are not clamping them with enough force. You should be able to shear that tiny bleeder off in the caliper with no problem. It is going to shear off or come out if you are trying hard enough.

 

[450 DUDE]

Im also supprised that vice grips and a pipe wrench did not work?

If it is still stuck you could try those stripped bolt/not removers its like a female ez-out.

Get the correct size hammer it on and remove with a wrench.

hth ..good luck
ken

edit : like this
http://www.galesburgelectric.com/Cr...ut-Remover-Set-13-p-p-932.html#Detailed_Image

 

[concretejungle]

well i've really screwed the pooch now so to speak. Now i can't get the damn 12 point wrench off that i hammered on! And, i have cut a nice gash out of my finger in the process. This just gets better and better. I'm about to drink a beer and go at it again.... stay tuned.

 

[Beowulf]

Craftsman bolt-out. You should be able to get them at Sears or K-Mart.

Use a 6-point socket and a 1/2" breaker with a cheater if you need it.

-B-

 

[hadji_85]

i had the same problem, I ended up buying new calipers from oreiley's which i believe are toyota remans. They were not very expensive and saved a bunch of time. Good luck.

 

[concretejungle]

-B- That's exactly what the doctor ordered. I had forgotten that i had a set of those from a Christmas Present buried in the tool box. I had to shave the nipple off the bleeder so i could hammer the bolt out home. But it did the trick; along with more heat and pb blaster.

 

[450 DUDE]

Good deal, glad to hear you got er whooped!

Ive never meet a fastener that couldnt be coaxed out one way or another.

ken

 

[concretejungle]

That was for only one so far!! i still have to now get the wrench off (what a stupid idea that was, i'm a ahole for doing that) the other caliper so i can get to the other bleeder screw. Fawk!

 

[Beowulf]

If it is a Snap-On wrench then try prying it off with the caliper in the vise. If it is a Craftsman get out the Dremel with the cut-off wheel. Make a notch so it is usable as a line wrench. I have a nice set of Snap-On line wrenches for brake bleeders. They are 6-point and have a heavy wall. Still can't get much torque on them because they are short.

-B-

 

[nicholas]

I would heat the bleeders red hot and then quench them with cold water....hammer on a six point socket.......FWIW.

Gord

X300 on the heat. Heat has saved my A several times and just when I about give up, I heat the sucker even longer and the bugger finally gives.

Craftsman bolt-out. You should be able to get them at Sears or K-Mart.

Use a 6-point socket and a 1/2" breaker with a cheater if you need it.

-B-

I used some of these bolts outs from harbor freight and they worked well on my O2 sensor nuts which were rusted/seized beyond recognition.

If it is a Snap-On wrench then try prying it off with the caliper in the vise. If it is a Craftsman get out the Dremel with the cut-off wheel. Make a notch so it is usable as a line wrench. I have a nice set of Snap-On line wrenches for brake bleeders. They are 6-point and have a heavy wall. Still can't get much torque on them because they are short.

-B-

X2 on the snap on flare nut wrenches. I bout a set of 3 on ebay 10/12 13/14 and ??/17mm for $60 bones but you can get them individually for around 30 on the snap on website. I can't stress enough how well these wrenches work. Had I used them in the beginning instead of HF or Autozone $15 flare nut wrenches I would have saved $75 in brake hard lines that had to be shipped from Japan. I have my fair share of Harbor Freight impacts sockets and other tools, but I can't stress enough how these smaller application wrenches will save you a lot of heartache and $$$$ in the long run.