rear brake bleeder valves destroyed, how to remove?

[concretejungle]

As the saga continued yesterday, i replaced my broken hard brake line with a replacement found from a junker. Luckily, it was a front line. After replacing i went to bleed the brakes. Started at the RR caliper, but the bleeder valve was seized on. I sprayed PB blaster on it and moved over to the LR caliper. Put a wrench on it, it too was seized. PB blasted and moved to the front. It got dark so i left it for the next day.

The next day, tHe front bleeder valves easily unscrewed, so i bleed out the new line along with the other front line.

with that completed i moved back to the rear. Still not budging at all. Tried a different wrench. Started to slip around and round the valve off

Stopped, went to the other rear valve. Same thing. FAWK! Went to the LSVP, bleed it with no problem.

I tried PB Blaster, i tried a torch, i tried a line wrench, i tried a 12 point wrench, i tried a deep socket, i tried vice grips..... NOTHING.

so i have the rear two bleeder valves almost destroyed. Nothing i tried will break them free. what the heck do i do now?

 

[GXO]

e-locker axle swap?

 

[Shipwreck]

Heat is your friend.

Torch them again, followed by my more PB Blaster. Repeat. Clamp the vise grips HARD. They'll budge.

Oh, ...make sure you have replacement valves ready to go in.

 

[AJP]

new calipers... that's what I plan to to do to mine in the next few weeks...I replaced the front last year and they were definitely due! The pistons were not moving freely... I suspect the rear are as bad but not as noticeable ...my bleeder valves are seized on the rear as well. I think this is one of the "signs" that a rebuild or new calipers is not far behind.
I didn't think the fronts were too pricy given the importance of brakes in the grand scheme of things - and they were pretty straightforward to replace...fwiw
my '97 LX450 has 217k km (135k miles)

 

[concretejungle]

Heat is your friend.

Torch them again, followed by my more PB Blaster. Repeat. Clamp the vise grips HARD. They'll budge.

Oh, ...make sure you have replacement valves ready to go in.

I'll try again once the replacement valves get here. I clamped as tight as i could yesterday with the vice grips, but they still spun on the valve

I guess it is as good a time as any to rebuild the rear calipers.

 

[keithf]

Patience...

I've had success loosening 60 year old hardware from an old tractor that has lived outdoor it's whole life, by just taking some time - a week or two to:

1. Spray with PB and leave overnight.


2. Next morning depending on how big it is and what you can get in there to work with, either:

lightly tap it with a small hammer about 60 times while wiggling the wrench​

lightly use a manual impact driver a minute or so - reverse direction too.​

hit it with an air impact wrench on a really low setting (just going phut phut)/ a minute or so - reverse direction too.​

3. Go back to step 1.

The objective is to try to get more PB further down the siezed threads. At some point it should loosen.

Hth! Keith.

 

[informationjunky]

I've alway had good luck on brake lines using flare nut wrenches.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5126

edit, It would help if I could read, blead valves not lines....

 

[stevezero]

I have a 10/12mm wrench that wraps almost totally around the nuts. Youre welcome to try it out. It was a lifesaver for me when I tried breakin mine loose. Keep on usin the PB blaster.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Better living through chemicals. Keep putting fresh PB on there and tapping. It will eventually work its way in. I wirebrush the fitting beforehand so it opens the first thread to help PB get in. It keeps on working and I've also done the week long exercise - not on the Cruisers.

This is typical and means the fronts have been opened because shops replacing pads often open them at that time to push the pistons back for the new pads. The rears wear forever, so hugely long interval. It's a bad sign that the rears have not been opened for normal bleeding activities - every couple years is smart/good practise.

DougM

 

[concretejungle]

I have a 10/12mm wrench that wraps almost totally around the nuts. Youre welcome to try it out. It was a lifesaver for me when I tried breakin mine loose. Keep on usin the PB blaster.

I used one of those, to no avail.

 

[concretejungle]

Better living through chemicals. Keep putting fresh PB on there and tapping. It will eventually work its way in. I wirebrush the fitting beforehand so it opens the first thread to help PB get in. It keeps on working and I've also done the week long exercise - not on the Cruisers.

This is typical and means the fronts have been opened because shops replacing pads often open them at that time to push the pistons back for the new pads. The rears wear forever, so hugely long interval. It's a bad sign that the rears have not been opened for normal bleeding activities - every couple years is smart/good practise.

DougM

Doug, since i do 99% of the work on my rig, i know for a fact that the last time the rear's were opened to be bleed, i did it. THat was when i put slee SS lines all around. I bled them and retorqued to 8 ft/lbs like the FSM shows. THat was the last time they were touched, which was probably 3 years ago. I have replaced the pads, but never flushed the system since it was working great.

good idea about the wire brush to try to help the PB get down into the threads.

 

[aim]

What happens if the PB gets into the brake fluid? Will it damage the seals? I was always loath to apply it anywhere near the bleeders. Another things I'm not quite clear on is why not just use visegrips (or at least a box wrench) and replace the bleeder valve after it's out?

ih8roadsalt...

 

[concretejungle]

What happens if the PB gets into the brake fluid? Will it damage the seals? I was always loath to apply it anywhere near the bleeders. Another things I'm not quite clear on is why not just use visegrips (or at least a box wrench) and replace the bleeder valve after it's out?

ih8roadsalt...

i think that since you are bleeding them and forcing fluid out, no PB blaster should get into the system.

Also, not trying to be an A$$, but in post #1 i said i used vice grips.

 

[aim]

Sorry, my bad. I'm with AJP, then - that's what I did for my LSPV. And I still h8salt.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Wow, that's interesting they've only been on for 3 years. Can't believe you're having so much trouble and you're doing all the right things. Any progress?

DougM

 

[concretejungle]

Wow, that's interesting they've only been on for 3 years. Can't believe you're having so much trouble and you're doing all the right things. Any progress?

DougM

I PB blasted them again last night and wire brushed the threads as best i could. I haven't attempted removal again yet.

Surprisingly, after bleeding out the LSVP and the front two lines (the front hard line was removed/replaced) the brakes feel just as good as before the broken line. Now i will replace the bleeder just because it's ruined, but i can still drive the rig just fine.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Glad you're not immobile. I've used penetrating oil on things for a couple weeks when I lived in Michigan. Just keep applying it and this coming weekend give it a go again.

Cheers,

DougM

 

[concretejungle]

quick question.... are these bleeder valves a one-size-fits-all type deal that NAPA or other parts stores would carry, or should i call Cdan?

I honestly hate to ship an envelop of two bleeder valves across the country if i could just drive 5 minutes and have them in hand.

 

[IdahoDoug]

I think they're standard, but you could check the FSM or call a local dealer to be sure. They may stock them for brake jobs.

DougM

 

[Rookie2]

FWIW, I try and stay away from using 12 points on stuff this small. In my experience, they will round them off much easier... I guess less contact area between the wrench and nut. I would think a hard clamp with the vise grips would of gotten it for you.


Rookie2