Rear AHC access impossible ?

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pete100

Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Threads
9
Messages
64
Location
Norway
Hi experienced AHC mechanics,

I'm writing this out of desperation/frustration.... :bang: I'm trying to replacing a dead rear AHC shocker. But access to the top mount appears virtually impossible. The cap with the 2 x 12mm bolts: the rear most one is just possible to access (although of course it's rusted fast), however how do you access the forward one ? Is it actually necessary to remove the fuel tank to gain access (or lift the body off the chassis) ? or is there some weird trick I'm not seeing ? I've seen references to fixing a spanner and rotating the shocker body to loosen the 22mm main top nut, but not the cap bolts. Also other that have resorted to cutting holes in the body to gain access ?

See attached image for part diagram.

Any/all tips gratefully received,

/Pete

ahc-shocker.webp
 
thanks for all the tips and links. Progress update. I got the rear-most 12mm bolt off this evening:

1) 5 days of copious WD-40 treatment every night.

2) removed spare wheel, spare wheel carrier, AHC height sensor, ABS wiring/ connector. just to get enough room to swing my little finger around the area.

3)Used a low profile 1/4 inch drive ratchet wrench with a pivot-head, and a 6 sided 12mm socket.


If I sit in the wheel arch, with my arm up between the chassis cross-member, and the rear of the fuel tank, then I can just get a 12mm spanner on the fore-most bolt (although I can't see it), applying the estimate 30lb.ft, of torque it took to undo the rusted rear one, will be nigh on impossible though....

/Pete.
 
pete100 said:
1) 5 days of copious WD-40 treatment every night.
Click to expand...

Drop the WD-40 and go get some PB Blaster. It is a proper penetrating oil. Soak with it for a couple of days instead. WD-40 was never designed for that purpose.


Also, a Gear Wrench with or without the flex head (depending on the situation) can get you out of a myriad of problems. I own both models and they are worth their weight in gold certain days.

Best of luck !

R.
 
+1 on the PB blaster. Then hit it with a propane torch. Just dont melt the wires to the ABS? sensor. Even with all of that, the job still was a PITA and there was plenty of cursing coming from my garage.
 
pete100 said:
access to the top mount appears virtually impossible. The cap with the 2 x 12mm bolts: the rear most one is just possible to access (although of course it's rusted fast), however how do you access the forward one ? Is it actually necessary to remove the fuel tank to gain access (or lift the body off the chassis) ? or is there some weird trick I'm not seeing ?
Click to expand...
i struggled with these forward most bolts as well - no straight, offset or even flex head gearwrench worked for me.
I even tried combinations of wobble heads, universal joints, and variations on this flex ratchet theme with no lick: http://m.harborfreight.com/t-bar-with-3-8-eighth-inch-flexible-ratchet-98484.html

However I found this S type obstruction wrench and voila - made it doable:
http://m.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/wrenches/5-piece-metric-s-type-wrench-set-99699.html

still unable to get any of the 22mm shock nuts off ... 22mm flexhead gearwrench clearly only works for non ahc, with ahc an offset seems to be needed but then the shock body moves... what a huge pita this has been. appreciate everyones tips will have to try a few of them tomorrow first thing.
 
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agaisin said:
...still unable to get any of the 22mm shock nuts off ... 22mm flexhead gearwrench clearly only works for non ahc, with ahc an offset seems to be needed but then the shock body moves... what a huge pita this has been. appreciate everyones tips will have to try a few of them tomorrow first thing.
Click to expand...
Drill a hole in the floor and use a rattle gun. Fast lane.
 
agaisin said:
i struggled with these forward most bolts as well - no straight, offset or even flex head gearwrench worked for me.
I even tried combinations of wobble heads, universal joints, and variations on this flex ratchet theme with no lick: http://m.harborfreight.com/t-bar-with-3-8-eighth-inch-flexible-ratchet-98484.html

However I found this S type obstruction wrench and voila - made it doable:
http://m.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/wrenches/5-piece-metric-s-type-wrench-set-99699.html

still unable to get any of the 22mm shock nuts off ... 22mm flexhead gearwrench clearly only works for non ahc, with ahc an offset seems to be needed but then the shock body moves... what a huge pita this has been. appreciate everyones tips will have to try a few of them tomorrow first thing.
Click to expand...

I used a large channel lock type pliers to hold the shock. I saw someone on here drill thru the cover of the shock and stuck a screw driver to hold the cover/piston in place...You do not have to drill your floor.
 
The point is that the professional method is a hole in the floor. There are several other holes here and there, so these two add very little to that. As long as the holes are properly prepped and plugged with a standard plug/cover, it doesn't do any harm. Someone here on the forum has even worked out the measurements for you.
 
I managed to get both rear shocks out using the 4.5" angle grinder with cut off discs. It took a long time, required two cuts per shock (one below the bottommost retainer to get the ahock body out, then another right above that same retainer). Sawzall didn't seem to work for me and i don't think anything less than 4.5" would have done it. Passenger side was easier, driver side was harder for me - 1 bc theres a brake (or fuel?) line right next to the shock, 2 bc for whatever reason on drvr side I couldn't get the spring out with the shock in place - believe i was able to get passenger side spring out with shock in place but not so on the driver side.

Anyhow that's the long way of saying if I had to do it again I would do the hole in the floor. I was able to get a good grip on the shock with channelocks but being only one guy (?) I couldn't get enough force with one hand to break that nut loose on either side or in the fronts for that matter. As far as floor method I was afraid I'd drill slightly wrong spot and require multiple holes or something, just wasn't confident enough.

Now I need to figure out the fronts, they're not budging even with what seems like more access. I got ahc brackets off but and even managed to get a breaker bar with socket and offset wrench in there but wasn't able to break er loose on my own.

Any ideas/tips? I thought I'd drill and use it for leverage with a longass screwdriver but i don't think that'll work for me cause I've had a lot of leveragw already and still couldn't break it loose.

So now I'm leaning towards sawzall in the front but I don't see anyone who's tried that bf but I think I can cut the ahc bracket at the top right under the nut and get it iff that way, just afraid that once I start that there's no going back and it could make it tought to get out another way.

Open to suggestions...
 
Last edited:
agaisin said:
I managed to get both rear shocks out using the 4.5" angle grinder with cut off discs. It took a long time, required two cuts per shock (one below the bottommost retainer to get the ahock body out, then another right above that same retainer). Sawzall didn't seem to work for me and i don't think anything less than 4.5" would have done it. Passenger side was easier, driver side was harder for me - 1 bc theres a brake (or fuel?) line right next to the shock, 2 bc for whatever reason on drvr side I couldn't get the spring out with the shock in place - believe i was able to get passenger side spring out with shock in place but not so on the driver side.

Anyhow that's the long way of saying if I had to do it again I would do the hole in the floor. I was able to get a good grip on the shock with channelocks but being only one guy (?) I couldn't get enough force with one hand to break that nut loose on either side or in the fronts for that matter. As far as floor method I was afraid I'd drill slightly wrong spot and require multiple holes or something, just wasn't confident enough.

Now I need to figure out the fronts, they're not budging even with what seems like more access. I got ahc brackets off but and even managed to get a breaker bar with socket and offset wrench in there but wasn't able to break er loose on my own.

Any ideas/tips? I thought I'd drill and use it for leverage with a longass screwdriver but i don't think that'll work for me cause I've had a lot of leveragw already and still couldn't break it loose.

So now I'm leaning towards sawzall in the front but I don't see anyone who's tried that bf but I think I can cut the ahc bracket at the top right under the nut and get it iff that way, just afraid that once I start that there's no going back and it could make it tought to get out another way.

Open to suggestions...
Click to expand...

agaisin,

I just did this yesterday. I was able to turn the nuts on my rear shocks, and both came out as expected. The fronts on the other hand....they weren't gonna budge. I had one nut spinning off but was using a 3 foot cheater bar and was still using a lot of force. Eventually I broke the dust shield and the AHC mounting bracket. Both were just allowing the shock shaft to spin freely. My guess is, if your rears were really rusted, then your fronts are worse. Seems the top of the front shock has a lot more exposure to moisture than the rears.

I was able to use a 4.5 inch grinder to cut the shaft. you're going to want to cut it right at the bottom of the ahc mounting bracket. I started cutting probably 1/8 - 1/4 inch front the top of the washer below the mounting bracket. I was coming at the bracket from the front side of the truck on both shocks. That's where you have the most room. My grinder actually didn't cut all the way through the shaft. I cut as much as i could, and then used a socket wrench to turn the nut and viola, the shaft sheared right off and the shock dropped through the hole. I didn't a little chest pound and had a beer break after that (I had messed with trying to turn that nut for hours before just grinding it off). Check out my post through the link below. Hopefully those pictures will help you line your grinding wheel up. If not let me know and I can take some pics of my old mounts to show you where I cut. Good luck! And also, as a precaution, I got wet towel and laid it in the engine compartment covering anything that would be damaged by hot sparks.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/real-time-help-needed-ahc-removal.874588/
 
Coincidentally on my way into work this am I saw your other post and was like - the IH8MUD gods must have had some pity on me to send that my way - literally answering the question I had... Will have to take a closer look at your post later - congrats man! I'm a bit jealous that you had no issues on your rears ;-)
 
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