Real time help: Torsion bar removal

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Other than cutting it out, I would try this:
Clamp a vice grip as tight as you can get up near the front end where the tbar starts to get thicker and the vice grip can't slide forward. Use 2 vice grips if you have them, up against each other for double the holding power.
Then wrap big ratchet strap around the tbar and up against the vice grips so it can't slip. take the other end and fasten it to something solid up near the front of the truck or better yet a tree about 10 feet away. Crank it tight to put a strong pulling force on the tbar. Heat the back socket with a torch and get it as hot as you can get with a propane torch (watch out if you are using oxy acetelyn). Once it is hot, blast it with PB or an alternative and than tap the socket lightly with a ball peen. Keep tapping and blasting with oil with the pressure applied and hopefully, maybe, it will slowly come out, one tap at a time.
Good Luck!!!
 
Nailed it! T-bar is out. OME t bars are in and adjusted to 21.25" (figuring it'll settle another .25" at least). Getting the lifetime alignment at firestone in the morning.

I'll post the details when I'm not covered in PB Blaster.
 
Great news. Want to hear the story of how you beat that little bugger.
 
I'm not sure which technique finally broke it free because I tried them all.

Whoever mentioned the slide hammer gave me the idea to attach a monkey wrench to the flared section at the front of the t-bar. I hit that with a dead blow hammer trying to pull the bar from the mount.

Continued to spray PB blaster on it.

Hooked everything up and hit the torsion bar with the dead blow hammer and a normal hammer.

Hit the rear anchor with a normal hammer, not very hard, but quickly, trying to imitate an impact driver.

This is the thing I think finally broke it free: I unbolted the whole thing. Then I pointed the front end of the bar upward so it wouldn't hit the control arm when slid toward the front. With both hands I shoved the torsion bar forward, letting the rear anchor arm catch on the cross member.

After doing this for a bit, I got a tiny bit of play between the anchor and t-bar. So I kept spraying pb blaster on it and hitting the anchor against the frame. At one point, I sprayed the anchor, then hit the torsion bar with the deadblow hammer to force it back into the anchor. This must have gotten enough PB blaster into the anchor to break it free. The torsion bar just slid right out.

Now my neck and arms are killing me but the 100 has new suspension all round.

Thank you everyone for your help and ideas. Now to figure out what to do with the oem bars.
 
Perseverance nailed it. Great stuff. Enjoy the adventure this weekend.
 
I know it's an old thread, but was pulling my old t bars out last night and had a tough time separating the rear anchor arm from the torsion bar. PB blasted and hammered away with a brass drift but wasn't getting anywhere. Switched over to an air hammer with a drift bit and that was the answer - made quick work of getting them off. About 45 seconds at most... Would definitely recommend the air hammer for anyone dealing with rusted on TBs.
 
Try locking a large vicegrip onto the bar and tap on that with your hammer. The thing is to get the impact operating along the axis of the bar, of course.

This worked for me when I had trouble with the same...
 
I know it's an old thread, but was pulling my old t bars out last night and had a tough time separating the rear anchor arm from the torsion bar. PB blasted and hammered away with a brass drift but wasn't getting anywhere. Switched over to an air hammer with a drift bit and that was the answer - made quick work of getting them off. About 45 seconds at most... Would definitely recommend the air hammer for anyone dealing with rusted on TBs.

Air hammer made this removal 45 seconds per end. $65 and a new tool to add to the arsenal. Done! Rear shock removal and install was a pain in the butt....

Good luck.
 
I've seen people hit a bolt with a torch, then touch a wax candle to the threads. The wax wicks in and break the thread. Wonder if that trick would work here?
 
I picked up a husky, Home Depo, I’m sure craftsman will be fine too. Air hammers are pretty simple tools. 3000 strikes/min and cut the tip off a punch bit for a blunt end. That did the trick.
 
I picked up a husky, Home Depo, I’m sure craftsman will be fine too. Air hammers are pretty simple tools. 3000 strikes/min and cut the tip off a punch bit for a blunt end. That did the trick.
Where did you impact with the air hammer?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom