Real time help...rear axle rebuild

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elkaholic said:
I honestly don't think you have to have the drum on it to set the preload.

Also, if that is all it is, it beats the heck out of the alternatives which cost $$$ rather than a little face. ;)

Cary on! :beer:
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Yeah, I'm guessing adding the drum doesn't make much of a difference but it begs the question why is there a max tension of frictional force plus 0.4-3.3 kg? It seems that the most important thing is the torque of the lock nut, thus ensuring bearings are seated appropriately. What if the frictional force of the seal is 20 kg and after adding the drum it's anything <23 kg? Per the FSM that's within spec but I would guess that the lock nut is over-torqued based on the frictional force of 20 kg, no? I'm going to get the SST to ensure proper torque.

Thanks again for the help.
 
Actually, I was taught bearing setup by an old heavy truck mechanic and millwright and I use that in everything I touch ... Trucks, land cruisers, trailers, etc.

It is basically all feel and comes close to what the FSM states. I honestly have never used a spring scale or torque wrench when doing wheel bearings and, knock on wood (hitting my head as I type this) have had only two issues that I recall and both of them were left front wheel bearings loosening a bit because I did not get the outer locknut tight enough ...
 
I stand corrected ....

And to clarify, the rigs that I had issues with the method I was taught having wheel bearings loosen up did not have star washers or lock screws to lock the adjusting nuts together .....
 
Just to close the loop a little bit and for future searchers on this topic…

hub nut socket.webp

Cheapest option (depending on where you are in the world) currently available here: Toyota Landcruiser 1/2" Drive Rear Hub Socket Tool Remove Axle Bearing Lock Nut

I ordered mine from OTC Tools as suggested earlier in the thread. $59 plus shipping here in US. Once I have it I'll be happy to loan it out for anyone doing a rear axle job as long as you pay shipping both ways. And FYI, number for OTC Toyota SSTs is 800-933-8335.

Thanks for all the help. Will post again once I completed job with proper torque.
 
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ca18sean said:
I believe the OTC part # is 09509-25011.

Rear Axle Bearing Lock Nut Wrench | OTC - SPX | 09509-25011
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You are correct on that part number as shown on the images on page 1 of this thread. It's amazing how clueless I can be sometimes. I went on a bit of search for the tool, was led to OTC website, called the 800 number on their website and was referred to the the OTC Toyota Specialty Tool number noted above where I finally located the tool and ordered it. If I would have just googled that part number I would have been shown 3-4 different sources readily available here in the US. From what I can tell the link you posted is the cheapest US source because shipping is a little less than what I paid. This isn't the first time I've made the mistake of searching only on Mud instead of going straight to Google. Thanks though. This should help future Mudders with locating the tool.
 
jfrench said:
You are correct on that part number as shown on the images on page 1 of this thread. It's amazing how clueless I can be sometimes. I went on a bit of search for the tool, was led to OTC website, called the 800 number on their website and was referred to the the OTC Toyota Specialty Tool number noted above where I finally located the tool and ordered it. If I would have just googled that part number I would have been shown 3-4 different sources readily available here in the US. From what I can tell the link you posted is the cheapest US source because shipping is a little less than what I paid. This isn't the first time I've made the mistake of searching only on Mud instead of going straight to Google. Thanks though. This should help future Mudders with locating the tool.
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Good deal, didn't realize OTC had reused the OEM part number, or I suppose that OTC might be the original maker of the SST. Or is it Bosch? Either way, I'm going to grab one of those tools for my rear axle service as well :)
 
Well, I got the lock nut appropriately torqued and preload within FSM specs but now I can't get my short side axle in. I engaged the cable locker before starting the job. Any trick to getting it in the last 1/4"? I had to lightly tap the the long side axle with a rubber mallet but it went in just fine. Short side ain't budging with light taps :bang:

image.webp
 
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