Real time help...rear axle rebuild

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jfrench

jfrench

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Apr 16, 2008
Threads
79
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1,203
Location
Denver
Don't have SST for torquing hub lock nut to 43ft-lb so using 3 screw driver method and trying to get preload correct with fish scale but after several cycles of tightening, rotating, loosening, retightening and checking preload I can't for the life of me get the preload below 5-5.5 kg when FSM states 0.4-3.3 is within spec.

Any ideas? I'm assuming nearly double the max preload spec is not good enough.

Thanks
 
Races and bearings properly seated based on following FSM and YouTube video tutorials.

Here's a pic of the rear hub lock nut

image.webp
 
I bought one from cruiserdan a while back. IIRC, it was in the neighborhood of $75-80 US
 
Not sure if having the SST will solve my problem. Even with the nut loose my preload is 4+ kg. It would be nice to know it's torqued to spec though. I'll see if I can find one. @AlbertoSD gave me some tips that I'll try as well. Have to leave it until Friday...unfortunately busy real work day tomorrow

Thanks for the help
 
OGBeno said:
Is the hub assy. seated all the way back correctly on the spindle?

Is the thrust washer seated all the way back against the outer bearing assy?
Click to expand...

I believe both are fully seated but will recheck
 
Did you post in another thread about buggering up your hub where the race seats? Were you able to de-burr that and get the new race properly seated? Your preload being high like that without the nut even tightened makes me think something isn't fully seated properly.
 
Jfrench

Just re-read your first post and read the service manual. One silly question ... Have you measured the frictional force of the seal and added that? The service manual states that you need to measure the frictional force of the seal only (step 4 e in picture) then states the spec is "frictional force plus 0.4 - 3.3 kg"

Just fishing for answers .....

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1442454174.802073.webp
 
Locked79 said:
Haha. Beat me to it.
Click to expand...
Yup ... We were both typing the same chit at the same time .... Just separated by a few thousand miles. :beer:
 
broth9640 said:
Did you post in another thread about buggering up your hub where the race seats? Were you able to de-burr that and get the new race properly seated? Your preload being high like that without the nut even tightened makes me think something isn't fully seated properly.
Click to expand...

Yes and yes but thanks for the investigative work!

elkaholic said:
Jfrench

Just re-read your first post and read the service manual. One silly question ... Have you measured the frictional force of the seal and added that? The service manual states that you need to measure the frictional force of the seal only (step 4 e in picture) then states the spec is "frictional force plus 0.4 - 3.3 kg"

Just fishing for answers
Click to expand...

Not such a silly question when dealing with a moron of my caliber...you caught a big one! Note to self and others: FSM only good if you read it and follow directions provided. My preload numbers above are the frictional force at the seal. As long as I put the drum on and gain no more than 3.3 kg of tension I'm good to go. I think I'm still going to procure the spindle lock nut tool to ensure correct torque. Thanks for telling me how to read a book:doh:
 
I honestly don't think you have to have the drum on it to set the preload.

Also, if that is all it is, it beats the heck out of the alternatives which cost $$$ rather than a little face. ;)

Cary on! :beer:
 
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