Help anyone! I just got started on my first birf job and in tearing down the passenger side, realized two of the studs and cone washers that hold the steering arm to the bottom of the steering knuckle were missing! Quick call to the local Toyo parts guy says he doesn't have them and would have to order. Anyone know what size these studs are and if I could find a substitute somehwere, or is ordering my only option? Of course its just my luck we're supposed to be going on vacation Wednesday....
Real time Help! Missing stud/washers on knuckle (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter gtt
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Not a crisis. Install the 2 remaining studs diagonaly opposite. Finish the knuckle job. Install the 2 new studs & 2 new nuts on Monday afternoon when they come in at the dealer. I don't recommend driving it w/ 2 studs, but yours is not the only 80 with only 2 studs in the knuckle.
It is very difficult to get a torque wrench on the nuts closest to the backing plate after everything is assembled. If I were doing this I would install the studs closest to the backing plate and leave it parked until I got the other two.
I do stock the studs, cones, washers and nuts.
D-
I do stock the studs, cones, washers and nuts.
D-
where are you located? That would be a nice piece of info right about now! I have some in the garage!
Oh, and if you can't source the hardware today, I'd take one from the other side so that each side has 3. And as Dan has noted, make sure to leave the one open one on each side accessable for final repair.
1 more thing, if you go the 3 stud route and want to drive it be sure to plug up the 2 open holes with an appropriate bolt so dirt and crap won't get into the knuckle.
gtt said:
I'm out of the office today but it doesn't really matter since there is no way for me to ship out on Saturday.
landtank said:
Good point.
Why do these back out on so many trucks after a birf repack? After reading here I was waiting for mine to loosen up, they never have (now that I have said something they probably will)
From past threads it does not appear that factory tightened nuts ever back out, only after a mechanic gets in there.
Are people not using torque wrenches?
From past threads it does not appear that factory tightened nuts ever back out, only after a mechanic gets in there.
Are people not using torque wrenches?
cruiserdan said:
Yes, exactly what Dan stated; once the brake dust cover is in place yer not gonna get a good torque setting on those two studs. BTW, I recently changed all my original studs for the ones Dan sells with the torx heads and they were super sweet to install. I was worried with the original studs that my torques would be wrong because with the double nut method of tightening I alwasy think that the stud gets slightly loosened when removing the nuts. Ohh, for the record, I would not drive with only two of the four studs!!!
Not even for a few feet if i knew they were missing. I know you gottaway withit for awhile but if it were me, I'd thank the good lord and park the rig til I fixed it. JMHO.
RavenTai said:
I believe the problem originates when the nuts are removed the first time. Sometimes they loosen the stud and it is not caught, resulting in the nut being tightened against a loose stud. Always check the studs to make sure they do not back out when the steering arm is removed. The new studs are no less likely to back out than the original style, they are simply easier to install.
I had to go through my Toyota dealership. Went to a 60,000 sqft warehouse - all nuts and bolts - and they couldn't come up with it. 
After alot of off roading, with low air pressure there is a lot of force on the arms. They can loosen up. It is a good idea to check after a hard run.
cruiserdan said:
Dan, its not that I know more than you, and I know I don't, but, I'll respectfully disagree and assert that the new studs are actually much "less likely" to back out than the original studs...not because on their own they are more or less likely to buck back out but because you can guarantee good torque on them prior to putting the nuts on and after taking the nuts off. As you stated the problem originates when the nuts are removed the first time, and like I stated, the problem originates any time you remove the nuts (1st, 2nd, etc) and it continues cause each and every time you double nut the stud to torque the thing down, it is harder to accurately torque the thing down AND as soon as you start backing off one of the nuts you are likely to loosen the stud somewhat. This assumes that the arms are off and can allow the double nut deal - when the arms are on, as in not while working an axle rebuild, it would be hard to have the double nut deal going at all. Anyways, I think we agree that the stud being loose is what makes it more likely to back out - whether it is the old style or the new style. My point is that with the new torx head no matter whether it is the first time or the twentieth time, you can rest assured that the thing is torqued tightly prior to putting the nuts on. I know its simply semantics but the point is that the new studs make it more likely for a weekend warrior like me to get it right and to keep it right. For that alone, and the shiny fancy finish, they are worth the extra expense.
HTH. 
Basicly you just said the same thing I said, in Beonese......
They both back out and the new ones are easier to tighten.
They both back out and the new ones are easier to tighten.
cruiserdan said:Basicly you just said the same thing I said, in Beonese......
And yer point is...
Actually thats the nicest thing you have ever taken the time to tell me!!!
Hey, if I master the master's language, do I get a global destruct button too???
You would have to ask him that. I should think a 3000 word draft question would suffice.......
