Real time: alternate source for birfield C-clip?

[FJBen]

Ok, sheared the C-clip upon removing the birf from axle.

My dealer can't get them for 2~3 days.

is there an alternate source for these clips?

 

[nicholas]

Overnight from CDan?

Would Slee have some extras you could stop by and pick up?

 

[OlBlueCJ7]

Ben - could we pop the opposite side apart, pull off the clips, and take them into Rocky Mountain Supply & see if they have them?

 

[OGBeno]

Ben--

Are you talking about the inner c-clip inside of the birf cage or the outer c-clip?

If it is the inner you could just drop a small spotweld at the splines' end and shove it back in.....IIRC, Marlin was the first to do this and IITC, it's even called a Marclip or a Marweld or something to that effect.

Anyway, just an idea....and I think we have about 40 of those suckers in stock here.

 

[FJBen]

From the looks of it, 80's only have 1 C-clip.

I tried a few stores in town and no-one has anything close. I already put the otherside back together


Onur,

I'm talking about the PITA one you have to compress and slide past the star.

I"m thinking I'm going to check with another dealership to see if they have them in stock...they could mail them quicker than it takes our dealership

 

[OGBeno]

If you have a welder available Ben, this might be the best option for you at this point in terms of not having to wait:

" Tired of fussing with those clips, Marlin Czajkowski, of Marlin Crawler fame, started thinking. The clip isn't intended to keep the Birfield from pulling off the axle and heading outboard from the centerline, because the Birfield's stub is stablized and constrained by the hub and spindle. The only real purpose for this clip is to prevent the axle from sliding out of the Birfield, toward the center, and into the differential. Normally, the axle floats inboard and outboard a small amount, constrained by the clip at one end, and a bigger c-clip on the axle.
The tack weld should be placed in the location shown in the picture, on the splines that go into the 3rd member. The last 1 3/8 - 1 1/2" of the splines should be left clear. The weld needs to ground down so that it is the same height as the splines.
A few more moments thinking, and Marlin had his solution - a couple of tack welds at the differential end of the inner axle shaft. These tack welds prevent the inner axle shaft from jumping out of the Birfield and into the differential, and you'll never have to fight with those little circlips again. Trail repairs just got much easier... and if you want never to worry about breaking a Birfield again, you can install Marlin's new Marfield joints. Marlin tacks two places on the axle, just over one and a half inches outboard of the inner end of each axle where it slips into the differential (red dots in the diagram). Any old welder will work: arc, MIG, or TIG. Just tack it lightly, you want to deposit a small amount of rod but minimize heat transfer. When you reassemble, you can leave out the end circlip (blue arrow in the diagram), but be sure to include the square-shouldered clip (green arrows in the diagram)."

Link:

'Marlin Tack' Inner Axle Retainer - Toyota Cheap Tricks - Trucks 4x4 @ Off-Road.com

 

[FJBen]

If you have a welder available Ben, this might be the best option for you at this point in terms of not having to wait:

" Tired of fussing with those clips, Marlin Czajkowski, of Marlin Crawler fame, started thinking. The clip isn't intended to keep the Birfield from pulling off the axle and heading outboard from the centerline, because the Birfield's stub is stablized and constrained by the hub and spindle. The only real purpose for this clip is to prevent the axle from sliding out of the Birfield, toward the center, and into the differential. Normally, the axle floats inboard and outboard a small amount, constrained by the clip at one end, and a bigger c-clip on the axle.
The tack weld should be placed in the location shown in the picture, on the splines that go into the 3rd member. The last 1 3/8 - 1 1/2" of the splines should be left clear. The weld needs to ground down so that it is the same height as the splines.
A few more moments thinking, and Marlin had his solution - a couple of tack welds at the differential end of the inner axle shaft. These tack welds prevent the inner axle shaft from jumping out of the Birfield and into the differential, and you'll never have to fight with those little circlips again. Trail repairs just got much easier... and if you want never to worry about breaking a Birfield again, you can install Marlin's new Marfield joints. Marlin tacks two places on the axle, just over one and a half inches outboard of the inner end of each axle where it slips into the differential (red dots in the diagram). Any old welder will work: arc, MIG, or TIG. Just tack it lightly, you want to deposit a small amount of rod but minimize heat transfer. When you reassemble, you can leave out the end circlip (blue arrow in the diagram), but be sure to include the square-shouldered clip (green arrows in the diagram)."

Link:

'Marlin Tack' Inner Axle Retainer - Toyota Cheap Tricks - Trucks 4x4 @ Off-Road.com

sorry got the end wrong...it's the one in the birf...so Iguess the outer. the one you can't martack. I found some at Coyote Cruisers that my friend is picking up.

I thought the 80 only has 1 clip on the axle?

 

[OGBeno]

sorry got the end wrong...it's the one in the birf...so Iguess the outer. the one you can't martack. I found some at Coyote Cruisers that my friend is picking up.

I thought the 80 only has 1 clip on the axle?

It has two C-clips--one inside of the birf itself and one on the outside end of the birf right outside of the drive flange.

If you read the above carefully, this is actually what you want to do for your situation. Re-read it--Marlin basically says that the inner clip inside of the birf is not to keep the axle in the birf but to keep it from migrating into the diff end. With the weld, the axle won't go anywhere and the birf is already held in place by the spindle, bolts, the hub--basically all of the outer stuff.

IIRC, the mini-truck guys do this all of the time.

Glad you were able to source one dude!

-o-

 

[FJBen]

It has two C-clips--one inside of the birf itself and one on the outside end of the birf right outside of the drive flange.

If you read the above carefully, this is actually what you want to do for your situation. Re-read it--Marlin basically says that the inner clip inside of the birf is not to keep the axle in the birf but to keep it from migrating into the diff end. With the weld, the axle won't go anywhere and the birf is already held in place by the spindle, bolts, the hub--basically all of the outer stuff.

IIRC, the mini-truck guys do this all of the time.

Glad you were able to source one dude!

-o-

ahh...so you don't use any clips except for the one on the hub flange......durrr...I was thinking wrong side of the axle.

 

[cheap 40]

I have done the Marlin tack on my 40 with success. I've always thought it should work on the 80 as well - my only concern was whether full time 4wd would present a problem, even though I never came up with a reason that it would......

Tony

 

[IdahoDoug]

This is the strangest thread. I get the feeling that neither of you is talking about the same clip. Ben - there are TWO clips on each axle shaft for a total of FOUR on the front. One clip inside the birfield, one clip at the outboard tip of the axle.

DougM

 

[FJBen]

This is the strangest thread. I get the feeling that neither of you is talking about the same clip. Ben - there are TWO clips on each axle shaft for a total of FOUR on the front. One clip inside the birfield, one clip at the outboard tip of the axle.

DougM

yeah we had a disconnect...but I got it all now. I think we were talking differently.