Rain Gutter Stressin' (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jul 19, 2007
Threads
52
Messages
241
Location
Washington State
I've been searching for threads on rain gutter rust for the last couple weeks. I've found a lot of threads about the problem, but no comprehensive plans for solving it.

My rain gutters are pretty good in most spots, but downright crunchy in a couple.

I want them to be solid so that I can mount my killer roof rack, and so my whole roof doesn't rot, but I'm not sure what path to pursue. Your advice is greatly appreciated.

Do you cut them off in spots and fab replacements? If so, what's the best way to refab? Or do you yank the whole thing and start out fresh? Do you weld them back on? If so how do you not melt your headliner? Somebody told me to epoxy glue them back on. Is this bond strong enough to mount a foof rack to?

I know you can get replacement gutters for 40s from CCOT, but I didn't see any for 60s.

I'm positive that many people have done this because it seems to be a common problem, and I'm pretty sure there is a good solution, I just need a little help figuring it out.
 
The only cure for rust is to cut beyond and fab in new metal. You're going to have to either get friendly with a sheet metal fab shop, or buy a metal brake at harbor freight and learn how to use it. I wouldn't personally rely on epoxy to replace structural roof parts. You'll have to remove the headliner, or at least drop it in the area of the repair. This is going to be epensive and time consuming any way you go about it. I've never seen replacement drip rail for 60's. You might want to go to the parting out section and see if someone can cut you out a foot or three from a parts rig. In fact, that and a good mig welder would be the best way to go about it.
 
post pics of what you describe as crunchy. it could be rust or it could just be the old body filler in there that needs to be removed and new put in.

clint
 
I need to get in there with some sand paper and my husband's dremmel rotary tool and figure out exactly what I'm facing. I'm kind of scared to do it...

Clint, did you see what I did to your rack? It's in the paint and body section.
 
I got in there and sanded. The good news is, I can still find bare metal. I think I won't have to refab the raingutters. I talked to a really good restoration painter: he quoted me $6000-8000 for the paint job (CHOKE!) He said there's some epoxy glue sealer they can put in the rain gutters that's advertised to last for 30 years. I talked to a guy at an auto paint store, who said to sand blast the roof, epoxy glue the seams, then calk the seams then paint.

So I'm getting this crazy idea I could do it for less than 6-8K. Somebody needs to talk me down off the ledge I'm standing on.
 
I got in there and sanded. The good news is, I can still find bare metal. I think I won't have to refab the raingutters. I talked to a really good restoration painter: he quoted me $6000-8000 for the paint job (CHOKE!) He said there's some epoxy glue sealer they can put in the rain gutters that's advertised to last for 30 years. I talked to a guy at an auto paint store, who said to sand blast the roof, epoxy glue the seams, then calk the seams then paint.

So I'm getting this crazy idea I could do it for less than 6-8K. Somebody needs to talk me down off the ledge I'm standing on.

Dealing with the same problem in my BT60 rebirth project. Haven't taken good photo's but the caulk/sealer that toyota used was crunchy and in my case rust was underneath. Not too bad but small sections are being cut out and welded back in, then strip off the old paint and seal the seam and repaint. Not pleasent but the only way to truly fix the problem. Headliner is easy the glue under it is the problem to remove priot to painting. Real time (labor ) user. took me 4 + hours with air sander just to get the glue off the roof, then found two perforations in the roof itself that the glue and roof paint were hiding. So cut weld and reseal. Good luck!:cheers:
 
I got in there and sanded. The good news is, I can still find bare metal. I think I won't have to refab the raingutters. I talked to a really good restoration painter: he quoted me $6000-8000 for the paint job (CHOKE!) He said there's some epoxy glue sealer they can put in the rain gutters that's advertised to last for 30 years. I talked to a guy at an auto paint store, who said to sand blast the roof, epoxy glue the seams, then calk the seams then paint.

So I'm getting this crazy idea I could do it for less than 6-8K. Somebody needs to talk me down off the ledge I'm standing on.

Don't jump just yet. If all you have is a simple electric drill you can get a lot done. Yes it will be time consuming but no too difficult.

Go to the hardware store and pic up 4-5 3m sanding disc's I think it is called a "clean and strip" disc. You will be able to find these at ace hardware in the houshold paint removel section. It looks like a black honeycomb wheel you use with the electric drill. Clean out all old filler in the edge of the roof down to bare metal. Very messy and please use a respirator or some sort of breathing protection.

While at auto parts/ paint store pick up 3m Flexable seam/ body filler. Fill the edge and repaint over the top. You should be able to find a close match to the white in a plasticote auto spray can.

Good luck and the roof rack looks good.

clint
 
I talked to a really good restoration painter: he quoted me $6000-8000 for the paint job (CHOKE!)


I would talk another body shop! thats seems really high priced (unless your rig is a real rust bucket). Besides a good body shop will tell you what you could do yourself to lower the cost.

goodluck on your restore:steer::cheers:
 
I have a lot of confidence in the painter. I walked around his shop and looked at three of his current projects. We're talking about full, car-show quality restorations. He only does 10-11 restoration jobs/year. I'm not really thinking I wouldn't get my money's worth, I'm just thinking I don't need THAT much money's worth for my purposes. I want it to stop rusting so I can drive it in the hills for many more years. So I'm thinking I can do all the paint, sealer rust removal, paint the insides of the panels, etc. and then pay some guy to just shoot a nice coat of paint on the outside after I get all the dirty work done.
 
apoco girl i hate rust especially in roofs,both 60's ive had so far ive done this too:
punch a few very small holes in the headlining just above where your gutters are.

using a good spray bottle with the small plastic nozzle on the end pump in rust converter,im talking about the small tubes you can get that go on the cans of wd40 etc,you only need a tiny hole then,don't be shy put plenty in so it can run down the lenght of the car,i usually park on a slope so it runs towards the front of the cruza,then turn the car around so it runs all to the rear also,you will see it after a while start to come out the gutters etc,it will come out above the front doors too,thats good its getting right in them gutters and doing its job.

now for a cuppla days it will keep running out down the side of the car a bit,wipe it off with a rag with turps or metho or if left for a few weeks it could affect your paint.

after one or two weeks i then i repeat the process with fishoil,to seal it off after the converter has done its job,bad sections it won't help but it will dramatically increase the life of the rest of your roof,it should bring any tiny rust spots under the sealer or seams to a hault,then every cuppla years retreat it with fishoil.

the only way to access the seams on them roofs is from inside.

im not sure what you guys use for rust treatment over their but we can get fishoil in aerosol cans which makes life easy.

cheers goldchaser
 
Not trying to hijack but just curious...
I know this sounds crazy but I have always thought I might just cut those dang gutters off and fab in some smooth roof lines. anyone done that? I hate rust!!! It never sleeps!!! I had mine repaired about three years ago then it came back even worse!!!

I hope I am not being a downer. It sounds like other people may have had better luck than me.

anyways good luck and I would love to see some pics and progress whatever you do.
 
I'm having similar issues with my rain gutters. They are rusting out is a number of spots, with one or two spots advancing bubbles which are getting quite large. The 60 was professionally painted within the last 3-4 years and grinding the paint and sealer present in the drip rails makes me anxious that it wont look as good. But I figure that prevention is the best medicine so I've gone to it. So far I;ve been able to remove the sealer and paint with a pointed linoleum carpet knife and paint scraper respectively. Its revealed the base metal with rust spots below and above the drip rail seam. I plan to go at the rust spots with a dremel and grinding disc to reveal bare metal. IN areas where the rail needs to be replaced, I'll mig weld in patches. I realize there is rust between the top and bottom layer of the sheet metal where the roof meets the drip rail. Without replacing the entire rail, i figured the next best thing is to convert the rust with metal ready (as part of the POR15 system), then apply 4 + coats of POR15 to the rail. THen prime it, then colour match as best I can. THe final product may show a bit of a border around the rail but at least Ivd dampend the problem significantly and down the road, I could always repaint the entire truck .

Is the headliner that close to the drip rail/interior roof that it would melt with a number of spaced, and careful mig spot welds such that a minimal amount of heat is transfered as possible?

Lee
 
had this work done by a bodyshop recently, several spots had syptoms of rot along the gutter, also in the rockers and corners of doors. cost around $1500 and they sprayed the truck too.

i know that it will be back though, next time i plan on replacing the whole roof if possible. smae ambition as you: don't need show quality, read = cost, for a truck that will be jungle pinstripped and is going to do some serious wheeling. longevity is the goal.
 
i just got a $1800 quote to repair rain gutter, fix rust spot and paint entire rig. Will likely get it done before the So Cal rains (mmmmmmm...... that could be a while).
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom