Rain Gutter and Top Restoration (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter jvincig01
- Start date
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I got the Permatex adhesive when I bought the headliner from Cruiser Corp. One stop shopping.
Looking at their websites now it says use 2 cans. I don’t remember seeing that when I ordered and I used 1 can. That might be the issue. So if using Permatex get 2 cans I guess.
jvincig01
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- Thread starter
- #186
It's been a while since I have worked on the hardtop. I have been avoiding the fiberglass because I have no experience with it. I figured I would jump in and start chipping away. Today I cleaned up where the rivets were removed, then flipped it over and started removing some of the rough spots. I did not want to remove all of it because over half is in good enough shape. Next, I am going to lay down some glass and build up the spots that I removed.
Using a roloc with a shop-vac running right next to it helped keep the glass dust down.
This picture is pre-cleanup.
Using a roloc with a shop-vac running right next to it helped keep the glass dust down.
This picture is pre-cleanup.
That glass dust wont hurt you unless you live in Cal, oh wait, nevermind, you're dead. Looking good, keep us posted.
It might be a bit late, but I used this to repair the edges of my cap. It is also used by kit car builders for hole repair as well as the obvious marine use.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40071937/
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40071937/
jvincig01
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- Thread starter
- #192
I am getting really close to attaching the visor and gutter.
As far as the visor goes, the PO removed the rivets and used countersunk screws to attach it back the top ..... of course, they did.
Anyhow, that leaves me with some less-than-ideal mating surfaces for the rivets. I thought about using very little fiberglass bodyfiller to patch the countersunk holes, and then redrill the holes. I should be able to see where I filled things from underneath and redrill the holes.
Does anyone have a better suggestion? I am completely open to ideas.
As far as the visor goes, the PO removed the rivets and used countersunk screws to attach it back the top ..... of course, they did.
Anyhow, that leaves me with some less-than-ideal mating surfaces for the rivets. I thought about using very little fiberglass bodyfiller to patch the countersunk holes, and then redrill the holes. I should be able to see where I filled things from underneath and redrill the holes.
Does anyone have a better suggestion? I am completely open to ideas.
Last edited:
If you are planning to rivet it back, then yes, definitely fill the holes with fibreglass and re-drill. Alternatively you could find some nice stainless raised countersunk screws... Google Image Result for https://i.accu.co.uk/360/_APC/SHRK-A2/0_14.png?cw=100.0000%25&ch=100.0000%25&scale.option=fill&w=500&h=0&q=90 - https://images.app.goo.gl/aRPirSWEF5ZSCLHe7
Should not be a problem if you use nylock nuts...
jvincig01
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- Thread starter
- #197
Been a while, but I am back at it! All the sanding has been done to the bottom rim of the fiberglass.... least favorite job ever.
All the holes line up using clecos, so tomorrow, I will lay down some Sikaflex between the top and gutter like @zerotreedelta did on his rig.
I figured I would follow his lead since I am using his rivet tool to set the rivets
One thing i cound not do was get the front of the fiberglass to lay flat. I have given up on trying to since it would require more glass work and expertise than I have.
More pictures on the way!
All the holes line up using clecos, so tomorrow, I will lay down some Sikaflex between the top and gutter like @zerotreedelta did on his rig.
I figured I would follow his lead since I am using his rivet tool to set the rivets
One thing i cound not do was get the front of the fiberglass to lay flat. I have given up on trying to since it would require more glass work and expertise than I have.
More pictures on the way!
jvincig01
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #198
Rivets are in. They came out OK, I think.
Now I need to lay down the epoxy seam sealer. Should I prep the channel, or just grease and wax remover and fill it in?
Also, not sure how thin that epoxy lays down. I have a 1 inch drop from the front middle to the sides. Is it still ok to use or does it have to be perfectly flat?
Now I need to lay down the epoxy seam sealer. Should I prep the channel, or just grease and wax remover and fill it in?
Also, not sure how thin that epoxy lays down. I have a 1 inch drop from the front middle to the sides. Is it still ok to use or does it have to be perfectly flat?
I'd wager you're ok with just a good cleanwith wax/grease remover, but not sure what other prep you were thinking.
The 3M self-leveling seam sealer is pretty "goopy" with a fair bit of surface tension, and it's fairly thick if you fully cover the rivet heads. I suspect you'll be ok even with the bowing, but it's just a guess.
It's a lot like the clear two-part epoxy you find at any home improvement store in both smell and texture/viscosity - if you really wanted, you could probably bend up a little channel out of scrap, put it on a slight slant, and burn up a tube of that as a test for a couple bucks. If nothing else, it's a chance to play with how the material flows before cracking open the big tubes - once you start laying the bead, you do want to keep trucking.
Amazon product ASIN B0044F9KFI
Blow out the dust and degrease. The front of my top had a slight curve to it (maybe 1/2”) but I don’t remember it causing the epoxy to slump to the corners. The Eastwood product I used was fairly thick and needed some encouragement to spread out. Ambient temperature might effect how it flows. Kind of the thickness of honey.
Go for it and good luck!
Go for it and good luck!
