Radiator Replacement DIY (1 Viewer)

[m3fan]

Before I do this- is a radiator replacement DIY needed? I couldn't find one but maybe I wasn't looking hard enough. I'd say this job was a 5/10, kinda a pain to figure out how to do it but I did it without removing the fan or shroud. Radiator was as of today 460 bucks or so with tax from the dealer. I didn't want to risk getting an older version or some OEM version that was superseded, I wanted the real deal latest version of the part so I was happy to pay full freight at the dealer for the RIGHT, LATEST version of this part.

I have a 2014 with 107K, original radiator was basically mint when I pulled it out but I figured this was cheap insurance and also facilitated a (mostly/partial) coolant swap which was also due. I watched some YT videos which actually ended up making the job HARDER, which was frustrating. For example one of them attempted to do it by disconnecting the radiator from the side mounting rails which is a bad move and totally not needed.

Couple points/highlights:

1. Just remove the 4 main bolts for the main radiator mounts, it's simple. The two lower ones are reachable via long extensions and a 12MM socket through the grille, the two upper ones are blind but easily reachable too, the driver side (right side facing the car, port side of a boat) has a little plastic cover blocking that upper bolt, it has one fastener to remove and it can be moved out of the way. Screwing with trying to separate the side rails from the radiator was a huge waste of time and a total pain in the ass.

2. I mainly drained from the radiator petcock as well as the passenger side/left facing the car/starboard on a boat block petcock. Barely any came out of the block really. 2 gallons came out of the radiator. I could not find a drain on the driver/right facing the car/port on a boat side of the block. There's a heat shield there but I still coudn't really figure out where a drain could be on that side.

3. Sharpies/Expo markers/etc. easily plug both trans lines once your remove them- that was actually a good tip from one of the YT vids I watched.

4. In filling the radiator back up- I burped the system constantly using the upper radiator hose as a squeeze bulb while I added coolant via the actual real radiator cap. Engine cold and NOT running. Fill funnel, burp and it sucks the funnel contents in. Repeat over and over and you basically rid the system of air, I was able to burp in the full 2 gallons missing very easily. Amazing really. Even extensively running the engine after it didn't take any more in from the reservoir.

 

[bloc]

The drivers side block drain is there, but harder to find for sure. Passenger side is lined up with the front edge of the spring/strut tower, but driver is not.

As you found, not totally necessary anyway. It can help avoid spillage if you are removing the water pump but otherwise I wouldn’t bother hunting it down.

Thanks for posting the tips though. I totally agree with the mounting rail information.. can’t fathom why people bother. The main mounting bolts are not hard to get to.

 

[BigMF]

Before I do this- is a radiator replacement DIY needed?

I personally would find it very helpful to learn from others on this task. I have all the service manual info but sometimes that is like trying to read a novel written in French by using a French to English dictionary. Yes, it can be done but you lose a lot of the context sometimes. I'm planning on tackling the radiator, water pump, etc, etc., etc. and it would be nice to know in what order to do things. For example, in order to do the water pump you have to remove parts A and C whereas for replacing the thermostat you have to remove parts B, C and D. It would just be nice to have a plan going in what order to take everything apart and how to put it back together so you don't get the skid plate back on before you realize you were supposed to attach a hose and the only way to get to it is from the bottom.

I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out but a detailed plan of attach would be nice. I'll try to document what I do and in what order and if it's useful, I'll post it.

 

[toy671]

I personally would find it very helpful to learn from others on this task. I have all the service manual info but sometimes that is like trying to read a novel written in French by using a French to English dictionary. Yes, it can be done but you lose a lot of the context sometimes. I'm planning on tackling the radiator, water pump, etc, etc., etc. and it would be nice to know in what order to do things. For example, in order to do the water pump you have to remove parts A and C whereas for replacing the thermostat you have to remove parts B, C and D. It would just be nice to have a plan going in what order to take everything apart and how to put it back together so you don't get the skid plate back on before you realize you were supposed to attach a hose and the only way to get to it is from the bottom.

I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out but a detailed plan of attach would be nice. I'll try to document what I do and in what order and if it's useful, I'll post it.

Water Pump Replacement

While inspecting the truck today I noticed a small pink drip on the front skid. Removed them and snapped the pics below. Doesn't appear to be the oil cooler leak @TonyP just dealt with. Is this the cam tower leak or something else? Suggestions to diagnose before I go pulling anything apart...

forum.ih8mud.com

Take a look at this water pump thread which has a lot of good information. The radiator swap is pretty simple, replacing the fan bracket is a bit tight as you try to work around the hard coolant lines going down to the oil filter assembly and need to be careful of the bolt right next to the AC compressor pulley referenced in the thread above. Do everything you can to leave this bolt in place or you will need to remove the AC compressor clutch to get it back in, no need to remove the compressor itself.

Working from memory here is what I did on my 2013:

Take off front skids, both left and right plates + the center support then drain the coolant. Pop the top cover trim off above the radiator and remove the front grill, careful to remove the camera wires from the grill. Remove the top/bottom radiator hoses and remove the two brackets attached to the fan shroud on the bottom passenger side. Release the tensioner from the bottom and stick a 5mm allen key into the hole to hold the tensioner open. Loosen the fan pulley bolts using a pry bar between the other screws to hold it in place and pull the fan + clutch into the shroud. Remove the two bolts holding the shroud on the top left and right side and pull up carefully removing the fan and shroud together.

There are 4 bolts holding the radiator in place accessible from the front on each corner, one is hidden behind the plastic shield on the top drivers side. The radiator should come out straight up at this point. This will give you a lot of room to work on the various items on the front of the engine. Remove the belt.

Remove the airbox at the throttle body to give you more room to get to the water pump.

Loosen the hard coolant lines and it moves easier if you pull the hoses off the oil filter housing (lots of coolant will come out, have your pan ready). Be careful loosening the 10mm bolt next to the compressor as mentioned above. Pull the air hoses nearby and coolant hoses off the thermostat housing, remove the thermostat housing. Loosen the water pump pulley like you did with the fan clutch then unbolt the water pump. The thread above shows a good way to trace your water pump on the box it came in handy to keep track of where the bolts go as they are different lengths. Then replace the tensioner, idler pulley, fan bracket in any order.

Reverse the order for assembly and make sure all the hose clamps are on past the collar of the in/outlet hoses. Put coolant in, then turn the heater on full. You may need to fill coolant in while it bleeds the system over a few days.

I think I spent two full days the first time I did this. Extra credit - spark plugs, heater Ts, PCV valve while you're in there. I would do the fan bracket at the same time, it's almost as much work as the water pump to do later and much easier with the radiator out although not required.

To do just the radiator, remove the skids, top trim cover and front grill, drain the coolant and pull the in/outlet hoses off and the brackets on the fan shroud holding hoses on the passenger side bottom. Unbolt the fan shroud, pull up off the bottom brackets, unbolt the radiator and it should come right out as @m3fan posted above but it may just be quicker to take the 4 fan bolts off and remove the shroud/fan.

PS
If this is your first time working with hoses and clamps, a good hose clamp plier and using the pliers or channel locks to break the seal on the hoses will make it easier.

 

[BigMF]

Water Pump Replacement

While inspecting the truck today I noticed a small pink drip on the front skid. Removed them and snapped the pics below. Doesn't appear to be the oil cooler leak @TonyP just dealt with. Is this the cam tower leak or something else? Suggestions to diagnose before I go pulling anything apart...

forum.ih8mud.com

Take a look at this water pump thread which has a lot of good information. The radiator swap is pretty simple, replacing the fan bracket is a bit tight as you try to work around the hard coolant lines going down to the oil filter assembly and need to be careful of the bolt right next to the AC compressor pulley referenced in the thread above. Do everything you can to leave this bolt in place or you will need to remove the AC compressor clutch to get it back in, no need to remove the compressor itself.

Working from memory here is what I did on my 2013:

Take off front skids, both left and right plates + the center support then drain the coolant. Pop the top cover trim off above the radiator and remove the front grill, careful to remove the camera wires from the grill. Remove the top/bottom radiator hoses and remove the two brackets attached to the fan shroud on the bottom passenger side. Release the tensioner from the bottom and stick a 5mm allen key into the hole to hold the tensioner open. Loosen the fan pulley bolts using a pry bar between the other screws to hold it in place and pull the fan + clutch into the shroud. Remove the two bolts holding the shroud on the top left and right side and pull up carefully removing the fan and shroud together.

There are 4 bolts holding the radiator in place accessible from the front on each corner, one is hidden behind the plastic shield on the top drivers side. The radiator should come out straight up at this point. This will give you a lot of room to work on the various items on the front of the engine. Remove the belt.

Remove the airbox at the throttle body to give you more room to get to the water pump.

Loosen the hard coolant lines and it moves easier if you pull the hoses off the oil filter housing (lots of coolant will come out, have your pan ready). Be careful loosening the 10mm bolt next to the compressor as mentioned above. Pull the air hoses nearby and coolant hoses off the thermostat housing, remove the thermostat housing. Loosen the water pump pulley like you did with the fan clutch then unbolt the water pump. The thread above shows a good way to trace your water pump on the box it came in handy to keep track of where the bolts go as they are different lengths. Then replace the tensioner, idler pulley, fan bracket in any order.

Reverse the order for assembly and make sure all the hose clamps are on past the collar of the in/outlet hoses. Put coolant in, then turn the heater on full. You may need to fill coolant in while it bleeds the system over a few days.

I think I spent two full days the first time I did this. Extra credit - spark plugs, heater Ts, PCV valve while you're in there. I would do the fan bracket at the same time, it's almost as much work as the water pump to do later and much easier with the radiator out although not required.

To do just the radiator, remove the skids, top trim cover and front grill, drain the coolant and pull the in/outlet hoses off and the brackets on the fan shroud holding hoses on the passenger side bottom. Unbolt the fan shroud, pull up off the bottom brackets, unbolt the radiator and it should come right out as @m3fan posted above but it may just be quicker to take the 4 fan bolts off and remove the shroud/fan.

PS
If this is your first time working with hoses and clamps, a good hose clamp plier and using the pliers or channel locks to break the seal on the hoses will make it easier.

Thank you, thank you, thank you!

 

[toy671]

I forgot to mention the oil cooler on the bottom of the radiator (built into the radiator) in my post, there are two hoses that need to be removed and they can be plugged with 3/8" extensions to stop them from leaking.

 

[vladimir1986ca]

Ok, so as I am in process of replacing my water pump. After removing radiator hoses I see this. I am replacing radiator hoses as part of water pump job but I did see leak in that section before removing the hoses and though it was bad hose issue. What do you guys think? Do I need new radiator or hoses alone should do the job.

 

[bloc]

Ok, so as I am in process of replacing my water pump. After removing radiator hoses I see this. I am replacing radiator hoses as part of water pump job but I did see leak in that section before removing the hoses and though it was bad hose issue. What do you guys think? Do I need new radiator or hoses alone should do the job.

View attachment 2843970

Definitely replace that radiator. The plastic is compromised, and only going to get worse in the future.

 

[vladimir1986ca]

Definitely replace that radiator. The plastic is compromised, and only going to get worse in the future.

Thanks! One more question. I have noticed small leak on one of the at air cooler hose no.1 near the radiator drain plug…as I look at the repair manual for radiator and AT oil cooler it does not ask to drain the at fluid or coolant….but it does have fluid leak…the question am I ok to just replace those AT air cooler Inlet and outlet hoses no. 1?

 

[bloc]

Thanks! One more question. I have noticed small leak on one of the at air cooler hose no.1 near the radiator drain plug…as I look at the repair manual for radiator and AT oil cooler it does not ask to drain the at fluid or coolant….but it does have fluid leak…the question am I ok to just replace those AT air cooler Inlet and outlet hoses no. 1?View attachment 2844143

I don’t see an ATF leak in this picture… that fluid will be red.

 

[vladimir1986ca]

I don’t see an ATF leak in this picture… that fluid will be red.

This area is wet and when slightly push it seems to have dark/gray residue, fluid…I believe bad radiator can have an affect on at fluid changing from red to dark…am I missing something? If I am to replace those hoses for POM do I need to drain any fluid?

 

[bloc]

This area is wet and when slightly push it seems to have dark/gray residue, fluid…I believe bad radiator can have an affect on at fluid changing from red to dark…am I missing something? If I am to replace those hoses for POM do I need to drain any fluid?

View attachment 2844184

That is mostly likely something else sitting between the outer cover and hose jacket. If you had an actual leak there would be more fluid, not just a drop that doesn’t seem to be growing. Plus without damage to the hose it is extremely rare for a Toyota hose to spring a leak in the middle.. on one of the ends from install/removal is more common and even that is rare.

That said, if it’ll make you feel better just get one.

 

[vladimir1986ca]

That is mostly likely something else sitting between the outer cover and hose jacket. If you had an actual leak there would be more fluid, not just a drop that doesn’t seem to be growing. Plus without damage to the hose it is extremely rare for a Toyota hose to spring a leak in the middle.. on one of the ends from install/removal is more common and even that is rare.

That said, if it’ll make you feel better just get one.

So, if I am to replace them. Do I need to drain any fluid or just straight replace them?

 

[bloc]

So, if I am to replace them. Do I need to drain any fluid or just straight replace them?

Just control the fluid pouring out and put the new hose in. Note that you’ll lose a small amount that was in the in-radiator cooler when you replace the rad.. but overall it isn’t a significant amount.

 

[vladimir1986ca]

Before I do this- is a radiator replacement DIY needed? I couldn't find one but maybe I wasn't looking hard enough. I'd say this job was a 5/10, kinda a pain to figure out how to do it but I did it without removing the fan or shroud. Radiator was as of today 460 bucks or so with tax from the dealer. I didn't want to risk getting an older version or some OEM version that was superseded, I wanted the real deal latest version of the part so I was happy to pay full freight at the dealer for the RIGHT, LATEST version of this part.

I have a 2014 with 107K, original radiator was basically mint when I pulled it out but I figured this was cheap insurance and also facilitated a (mostly/partial) coolant swap which was also due. I watched some YT videos which actually ended up making the job HARDER, which was frustrating. For example one of them attempted to do it by disconnecting the radiator from the side mounting rails which is a bad move and totally not needed.

Couple points/highlights:

1. Just remove the 4 main bolts for the main radiator mounts, it's simple. The two lower ones are reachable via long extensions and a 12MM socket through the grille, the two upper ones are blind but easily reachable too, the driver side (right side facing the car, port side of a boat) has a little plastic cover blocking that upper bolt, it has one fastener to remove and it can be moved out of the way. Screwing with trying to separate the side rails from the radiator was a huge waste of time and a total pain in the ass.

2. I mainly drained from the radiator petcock as well as the passenger side/left facing the car/starboard on a boat block petcock. Barely any came out of the block really. 2 gallons came out of the radiator. I could not find a drain on the driver/right facing the car/port on a boat side of the block. There's a heat shield there but I still coudn't really figure out where a drain could be on that side.

3. Sharpies/Expo markers/etc. easily plug both trans lines once your remove them- that was actually a good tip from one of the YT vids I watched.

4. In filling the radiator back up- I burped the system constantly using the upper radiator hose as a squeeze bulb while I added coolant via the actual real radiator cap. Engine cold and NOT running. Fill funnel, burp and it sucks the funnel contents in. Repeat over and over and you basically rid the system of air, I was able to burp in the full 2 gallons missing very easily. Amazing really. Even extensively running the engine after it didn't take any more in from the reservoir.

Well, my 2009 LC has •AT air cooler completely blocking lower passenger side radiator bolt, looks I do have to remove grille and possibly front bumperany ideas?

 

[CharlieS]

I don't think you're looking at the right hole. I've done this job and didn't need to do anything with that cooler. That being said, I did have the grille and bumper off. Others have done the job without removing the bumper.

 

[vladimir1986ca]

I don't think you're looking at the right hole. I've done this job and didn't need to do anything with that cooler. That being said, I did have the grille and bumper off. Others have done the job without removing the bumper.

Well that hole is right behind the cooler, the only way to not remove cooler and front bumper id to leave passenger side radiator mounting bracket in place? Any thoughts if that would be ok?

 

[bloc]

Well that hole is right behind the cooler, the only way to not remove cooler and front bumper id to leave passenger side radiator mounting bracket in place? Any thoughts if that would be ok?

Mine has the lower radiator bracket bolt well below the trans cooler.

It’s a little hard to see in this photo but the arrow is to the exact spot.

 

[vladimir1986ca]

Mine has the lower radiator bracket bolt well below the trans cooler.

It’s a little hard to see in this photo but the arrow is to the exact spot.

View attachment 2845136

Mine is blocked

 

[vladimir1986ca]

Mine has the lower radiator bracket bolt well below the trans cooler.

It’s a little hard to see in this photo but the arrow is to the exact spot.

View attachment 2845136

What year is yours?