Radiator replacement advice...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

D

dvs73

Joined
Nov 15, 2021
Threads
2
Messages
15
Location
South Texas
Currently in the process of replacing the radiator on my 2017 GX with 118k. Everything has gone smoothly with the exception of the lower radiator hose, The position of the hose clamp is in a really difficult position to remove, I have folded the hose below the AC lines but still a PITA to remove the radiator with it attached (I am afraid to damage the AC lines). My thoughts are, since the radiator is already damaged and being replaced, couldn't I take an oscillating tool and just cut off the lower inlet of the radiator? This would make things so much easier. Has anyone done such a hack job?
 
Your suggested solution would of course work…but a couple of pictures would help us to determine if there is another way.
 
.....as requested. I would be cutting where the inlet attaches to the radiator. Don't want to have to buy a clamp removal tool for this one clamp.

20251012_215103.webp


20251012_215043.webp
 
Well, you’re there & we aren’t, but that doesn’t look too hard to access w/o cutting up the the radiator. Maybe cut the hose itself to possibly give you more access.

Like I say, you’re there & maybe you don’t have the room, but it ‘looks’ like you have enough room to get a pair of pliers on that hose clamp.
 
Last edited:
John McVicker said:
Well, you’re there & we aren’t, but that doesn’t look to hard to access w/o cutting up the the radiator. Maybe cut the hose itself to possibly give you more access.

Like I say, you’re there & maybe you don’t have the room, but it ‘looks’ like you have enough room to get a pair of pliers on that hose clamp.
Click to expand...
The hose is in great shape. Shows little to no wear at all for the year and mileage. Will give it another go tomorrow, before I butcher this radiator.
 
GX Bob has video on installing the transmission cooler and he goes through the process of removing those tight clamps and hoses. ( they are a pita but eventually you will win and get them off )
Need clamp forceps and long nose to loosen that clamp and pull it down
Dish soap in a spray may help

Good luck
 
Are you replacing with a OEM radiator or an all aluminum?
If you haven't purchased one yet and can afford one, go with the all aluminum. The plastic will just break on you in another 100k miles.
I wish I had gone aluminum when I had to replace mine.
The old, "Would'da, should'da, could'da" syndrome.
 
dvs73 said:
The hose is in great shape. Shows little to no wear at all for the year and mileage. Will give it another go tomorrow, before I butcher this radiator.
Click to expand...
Here’s a good rule of thumb: if it’s time to replace an old radiator, it's also time to replace the old radiator hoses.

That old hose might look just fine, but it’s probably 8 years old.
 
I'm swapping out my radiator tomorrow with an all-aluminum CSF....probably go get some of those hose clamp pliers after seeing those. Any advice from your swap would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
I just installed a CSF and my experience was disappointing for a 600.00 radiator.

Issues:
1. The foam seals shipped with the radiator are useless. They simply look like they were for another project.
2. The mounts for the fan shroud had to be sawed down to make the shroud fit to seal around the radiator.
3. Bolts that shipped with radiator were wrong. I contacted CSF several times and was ignored.
4. Radiator cap was shipped installed and smashed during shipping. They replaced the cap but the was some damage to the filler neck since the aluminum is so soft. When I first called CSF I was told to go back to the supplier, who told me to go to CSF, who told me we can't help you. When I pushed turned out they could. Should not have had to push.
 
Carnevino said:
I'm swapping out my radiator tomorrow with an all-aluminum CSF....probably go get some of those hose clamp pliers after seeing those. Any advice from your swap would be appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...
1. You do not have to remove the bumper. Simply reposition the plastic deflectors behind the grill, in front of the radiator. stick your socket with an extension in those slots and feel when it locks and just undo.
2. Get under the front bumper and reposition that lower hose, then from the top you will have to gently move the two AC lines that are gonna be in your way.
3. As seen in many videos, lifting from the driver side and carefully pulling up until it comes out.

Other then that the GX Bob video is pretty spot on.
 
Last edited:
WTITW said:
Id just use long 90 degree needle nose. Amazon Basics Long Reach Needle Nose Pliers Tool Set, 3-Piece, Black - Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TWFCV44/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_ZQ8QNDZ60P3FQSG9TBCQ?linkCode=ml1&tag=wastingtimein-20&linkId=3f041772d0d47f35e69b6feae4e52683

Can you access that clamp by removing the engine skid? Looks like under might be better than over.
Click to expand...
I couldn't get to it from the bottom. Even with the lower skid removed. The clamp prongs face the frame, so its very tight.
 
r2m said:
Are you replacing with a OEM radiator or an all aluminum?
If you haven't purchased one yet and can afford one, go with the all aluminum. The plastic will just break on you in another 100k miles.
I wish I had gone aluminum when I had to replace mine.
The old, "Would'da, should'da, could'da" syndrome.
Click to expand...
I went with OEM from Bell Lexus, figured Having to do it in another 100k isn't so bad.
And yes I did end up replacing the two hoses and the serpentine belt while I had access.
 
I have replaced nearly all of the hoses and lines in my GX as they are 18 years old. As part of this, I've replaced nearly all of my OEM Toyota constant tension clamps with stainless worm drive clamps. They are much easier to get on and off using a 5/16" socket on a small ratchet or a nutdriver. I usually buy M-USA Ideal clamps at the hardware store for a buck or two a piece (big ones) but have also gotten bulk bags of the smaller ones.

I certainly understand while OEMs prefer constant tension clamps (really: ease of installation on the assembly line), but in my experience, the worm clamps work fine but do require a re-tighten after a few heat/cool cycles. And, if you ever need to service the rig on the side of the road somewhere, the worm clamp is drastically easier to deal with than a tension clamp.
 
Chronicle said:
I just installed a CSF and my experience was disappointing for a 600.00 radiator.

Issues:
1. The foam seals shipped with the radiator are useless. They simply look like they were for another project.
2. The mounts for the fan shroud had to be sawed down to make the shroud fit to seal around the radiator.
3. Bolts that shipped with radiator were wrong. I contacted CSF several times and was ignored.
4. Radiator cap was shipped installed and smashed during shipping. They replaced the cap but the was some damage to the filler neck since the aluminum is so soft. When I first called CSF I was told to go back to the supplier, who told me to go to CSF, who told me we can't help you. When I pushed turned out they could. Should not have had to push.
Click to expand...
My experience with CSF was very good.
1. I didn't take the foam seals as anything but shipping material
2. The shroud fit fine for me, but I'm not trying to make it seal with a gasket.
3. I reused the factory bolts from the original radiator
4. Not the fault of CSF as they probably didn't damage it. Of course they have to ship with the cap installed. It necessary to keep the inside clean and protect the flange from damage.

I bought my CSF from Summit Racing. Don't sweat the shroud not being perfect. The fan and shroud are really only doing anything below about 25mph anyway, a tiny bit of air leakage with the MUCH higher capacity CSF is not going to cause overheating at low speeds.

Shrouding is super important on stationary engines that need to pull in all airflow and are loaded fully-- like a generator, for example. But on a GX, the only scenario likely to cause a problem is prolonged low speed high load. Which is a driver error for not using 4Low to reduce load.
 
Rednexus said:
I have replaced nearly all of the hoses and lines in my GX as they are 18 years old. As part of this, I've replaced nearly all of my OEM Toyota constant tension clamps with stainless worm drive clamps. They are much easier to get on and off using a 5/16" socket on a small ratchet or a nutdriver. I usually buy M-USA Ideal clamps at the hardware store for a buck or two a piece (big ones) but have also gotten bulk bags of the smaller ones.

I certainly understand while OEMs prefer constant tension clamps (really: ease of installation on the assembly line), but in my experience, the worm clamps work fine but do require a re-tighten after a few heat/cool cycles. And, if you ever need to service the rig on the side of the road somewhere, the worm clamp is drastically easier to deal with than a tension clamp.
Click to expand...
Constant tension clamps are used more for their ability to prevent warranty claims due to hose failure than for the convenience of assembly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom