Radiator options for USA

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I was going to add this to my build page, but I felt like it might be useful as a stand alone so here it is. @JDM Journeys this is for you!

I’ve been struggling with heat management in my turbo charged HZJ77 automatic as of late. Now to be fair, I have added a roof rack and larger tires, but I also regeared to 4.56. It’s on 295/70/17s now. But the long story short is I live in denver and have started heading into the mountains more in the summer, which has left me on the side of the road revving the engine trying to bring water temps back down.

Things I replaced: thermostat, hoses, water pump (was done 20k km ago) I guess that’s it for normal changes

Upgrades I added: PDI FMIC, quikazz fan+coupler.

The most recent change with the fan seemed to help a bit (can definitely hear more air) but it was also 7-10deg ambient temp cooler on my drive than the last time. I still had one more item I wanted to change: the radiator.

I still had my original radiator, but currently I have been running a China aluminum radiator.
I swapped that one in while living in Texas to help with cooling. I don’t remember a noticeable change back when I did it.

Now I’m sure many know the HDJ radiator is 60mm longer and thus has more cooling ability. Some members have posted that it cured their cooling issues. That set my target, a 560mm long radiator for the 77.

So as I saw it, I had 3 options:

- Get the original radiator re cored, add 60mm.
This estimate was 700+ and honestly made me hesitant. Everyone online says their material is better for a radiator, but I don’t care about an aluminum and plastic tank radiators “potential” lack of durability. I want peak engineering prowess for cooling.
- replace with hzj76 narrow nose radiator (16400-17300).
I would hope that this would out perform the original radiator and the China radiator, most vehicles with issues (non 70) in cooling see a noticeable improvement with an OE radiator.
- purchase an HD radiator and install(16400-17360)
This would get me a longer core, and a more updated radiator design (plastic and aluminum). The issue here is this radiator was never available in NA so I’d have to buy and get it shipped which was looking like 700+ as well (and hoping no damage)

Thankfully I have some access to parts info for Toyota, so my search began on another option as my goal of 16400-17300 radiator were dashed when I found that it was no longer being ordered to restock our dealers in the states. Maybe Canada could get it but I couldn’t.

After searching pictures and part numbers I found that a 2007+ HZx radiator was actually the same size core as an HDJ radiator. And more importantly, there was stock in North America 🤘🏼. The part number is 16400-17401, and the core measures 560mm long. It’s also about 15mm wider and a few mil thicker than my aluminum radiator. Score.

So I had to go through an approval process that required an HS7 form for the parts as this is technically for a vehicle not legal here. But approval happened in a day and the order was shipped to my local dealer. I may add that process in here. Canada you may not need any extra process, I did confirm there is plenty of stock of these in your parts houses.

The parts I ordered are:
16400-17401- radiator
16711- 17151 - shroud
16572-17150 - lower hose (it’s 40mm at the radiator end instead of 38mm and longer)

I could have ordered an over flow bottle and bracket to make things fit better, but they fit good enough that I don’t feel the need to get those as of now.

I’ll explain my install process here in a bit but I want to share two other options for fitment, and that’s the radiator plates. don’t know if they are an exact fit, but the HDJ side plated are still available via monotaro in Japan. You need to find a friend to order and ship them, but I would think they are substantially similar to the core I have now and would be a simple install.
The other option is for the Canada boys, I would guess there are some wrecked or damaged narrow nose, plastic tank vehicles available. You could snag the side plates off, extend the bottom 60mm and be of and running. Again, untested but it’s gotta be in the hunt.

Now I’m cheap and don’t live in Canada so I modified the backets. It took some time, but I got It all done in about 2 evenings so not bad!

First up, some pictures.
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As you can see, more columns, and longer!

I took alot of measurements to try and get an idea of where this should all fit, especially with how high the cap should be. Those measurements got my first setup in the hunt when test fitting, and then I used the fan blade gap on the shroud to help center it height wise as best I could. Happy to say it only took 2 tries.
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First step was drilling out all the spot welds to start with a clean plate.
 
Now I have spacers in my radiator for the PDI intercooler kit, so after removing the top mount bracket and bushing I thought the size was familiar. It was the perfect height of the spacer and bushing for the lower radiator mounts. So I measured and cut those up to be my mounts and drop the need for spacers. If you don’t have spacers, you can simply move them backwards and weld them on as well. The bolt is the same size so the included washer and nut work great.
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Since the overflow bracket lines up with the threaded holes I had to get creative cutting the bracket off. I had to cut more off after this but just for and idea
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Finally, I had my lower 2 brackets ready to be attached, and it was on to the top brackets. After trimming the lower brackets, I was left with nice looking upper brackets lol. I needed a bit more material so I welded a strip on so I could drill a 25mm hole and be done!
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The cool thing was all needed parts were provided with the original radiator. It was all scavenged ha! After assembling them I adhesived the foam around the front (also from original, and it was install time!
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It’s definitely a tight fit, but so far it all clears.
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The bottle fits enough
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it looks right at home!
 
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I think you might be able to fit a 1” larger diameter fan in there. Obviously my quikazz setup prevents that, but just for reference.

Also here are the lower hose differences
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It hangs down a bit below my winch plate, but not bad

I’m planning on doing testing this is weekend with some warmer weather, but as far as I’m concerned this is the best it will get. It’s taking up every bit of space in the front of the truck with this thing. But I’m very happy with how it turned out. I believe it was a cost effective process considering my options, and one massive benefit is now if I need to, I can get a replacement easily from my dealer. All I need to do is swap side plates and I’m off. This feels like a more sustainable modification which I’m all for! Hope things helpful in keeping some of you people cool!
 
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Same boat; same thought process. I'll PM you. But it looks like the 99-07 HDJ79 splash guard ("Cover, Engine Under") 51442-60110 fits the longer radiator. I'll let you know.

B
 
@Blomdala Great job on documenting the process, great resources for others to achieve a very needed upgrade,. Question for you, I installed the 16400-17360 on mine a while back, sourced it from Partsouq. Are you saying the 16400-17401 is the same radiator just under a different part number thats available in the US?
 
@Blomdala Great job on documenting the process, great resources for others to achieve a very needed upgrade,. Question for you, I installed the 16400-17360 on mine a while back, sourced it from Partsouq. Are you saying the 16400-17401 is the same radiator just under a different part number thats available in the US?
What I am feeling pretty confident in (but haven’t put a tape measure on both for) is the 360(HD rad) and 401(wide nose HZ) have the same size core, just the mounting brackets are different. 401 is available in US dealers which is a massive plus for me.

In your case, positive is that if you have a damaged radiator at any point, you can go to your local dealer and buy a radiator swap the brackets, and your back up and running. At hopefully a fraction of the cost. Everyone’s dealer marks, things up differently, But not having to pay $250 plus in shipping is welcomed for me.
 
There is defiantly space for more fan in this shroud, but I’ll run it as is for a bit.
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Did some testing with a trailer since the temps are only in the 80s, but with AC blasting max the whole time I was surprised as the temps! I think this is going to help a good bit. Hoping to hit the real grades Friday when it’s 87
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How much weight are you pulling with that trailer?
 
I can echo the massive improvements this radiator has had over stock, but last week during a nasty heat wave in socal with temps at 115F, I experienced near over heating conditions while climbing a mountain pass. Granted these were extreme conditions, it was still somewhat discouraging to have to continue to worry about temps in certain situations. Now I am looking at the Terrain Tamer option, anyone know specs and how it compares to these? BTW my normal cruising temps are about 90C, that weekend it spiked to ~105ish. Readings via redarc gauge at the upper hose.
 
I can echo the massive improvements this radiator has had over stock, but last week during a nasty heat wave in socal with temps at 115F, I experienced near over heating conditions while climbing a mountain pass. Granted these were extreme conditions, it was still somewhat discouraging to have to continue to worry about temps in certain situations. Now I am looking at the Terrain Tamer option, anyone know specs and how it compares to these? BTW my normal cruising temps are about 90C, that weekend it spiked to ~105ish. Readings via redarc gauge at the upper hose.
To be honest, I struggle to see what their product would offer over this radiator. It really can’t get any bigger, so I’d be curious as to if there is info. My thoughts are that it’s just more “rugged”.

Also I’d be very much struggling if your FT had an issue in that situation lol
 
I can echo the massive improvements this radiator has had over stock, but last week during a nasty heat wave in socal with temps at 115F, I experienced near over heating conditions while climbing a mountain pass. Granted these were extreme conditions, it was still somewhat discouraging to have to continue to worry about temps in certain situations. Now I am looking at the Terrain Tamer option, anyone know specs and how it compares to these? BTW my normal cruising temps are about 90C, that weekend it spiked to ~105ish. Readings via redarc gauge at the upper hose.
What specs are you after? The 16400-17360-TT is the same size as the OEM 16400-17360. The only difference is that it is all aluminum and will have a quicker cooling recovery time, beyond that I don't see it being worth the effort/expense if you already have the radiator that @Blomdala has installed. 115F is pretty extreme temps, and a lot higher heat would be reflecting up off the road. It might be worth looking at other parts of the system before changing out radiators- fan clutch, fresh coolant, thermostat check... Do you have an intercooler?

If yourHDFT was struggling at those temps I can't imagine what my turboed 1Hz would have been doing. Well, I can, but don't want to. One more reason for me to stay away from southern california
 
Great feedback! you guys right, likely the radiator is as good as its going to get, I'll keep an eye on it, look into other parts of the system if needed in the future. You guys are brave to be towing trailers with 1HZ's, what temps are you seeing with the bigger rad?
 
Alright I got a chance to go for a drive this weekend on a hotter day. It was still about 7-10 degrees cooler than my worst day

However, it did far better. May max temp got to 230F (it would be great to avoid that, but cast head and block and slowly increasing that temp has proven to be safe for me thus far) and I was going at a higher speed than when I had to pull over and cool off.

The big take aways so far:
1. I did this drive with the AC on max, last time I had the heater on max and windows down… so a huge improvement
2. The radiator seems to recover much faster, when going up a grade and temps climb, when there is a short flat period I was able to drop a few deg before the next climb. Very helpful.

My next/last planned step is an airbox with 4” in/out, and a safari armax snorkel (4”). I believe getting consistent cooler air will be a big benefit as well as less air restrictions for the turbo. I feel like the truck is 90% there, so I’m hoping this does the trick. There is also very likely an improvement that can be made with a Gturbo but that’s a much larger expense for me at this time.

Dude this is a great writeup! Thanks for documenting it so thoroughly! Super helpful!

The bottom of the rad sits further down if I'm seeing it correctly? So if one is running a PTO shaft under the rad then this may not be an option? Hmmm...
I would measure the current gap, if it can’t add 60mm to it then it’s a no go :(.

Hoping to work on the airbox idea I have in the next week or two!
 
You may have mentioned this before, have you addressed the fan clutch, with recalibrating to engage sooner?

I can tell you upgrading the air box was one of the most noticeable mods I've done, in terms of performance. I cannot speak to its effects on overall temps, as I did not compare post and pre. Improvements were mainly in how fast and effortlessly the turbo spooled. With very noticeable improvement in low end power and drivability. So I highly recommend pursuing this mod for anyone with a turbo application. I did a write up on my version using a GM v8 air box, I'll try to dig it up and post a link.
 
Alright I got a chance to go for a drive this weekend on a hotter day. It was still about 7-10 degrees cooler than my worst day

However, it did far better. May max temp got to 230F (it would be great to avoid that, but cast head and block and slowly increasing that temp has proven to be safe for me thus far) and I was going at a higher speed than when I had to pull over and cool off.

The big take aways so far:
1. I did this drive with the AC on max, last time I had the heater on max and windows down… so a huge improvement
2. The radiator seems to recover much faster, when going up a grade and temps climb, when there is a short flat period I was able to drop a few deg before the next climb. Very helpful.

My next/last planned step is an airbox with 4” in/out, and a safari armax snorkel (4”). I believe getting consistent cooler air will be a big benefit as well as less air restrictions for the turbo. I feel like the truck is 90% there, so I’m hoping this does the trick. There is also very likely an improvement that can be made with a Gturbo but that’s a much larger expense for me at this time.


I would measure the current gap, if it can’t add 60mm to it then it’s a no go :(.

Hoping to work on the airbox idea I have in the next week or two!
Definitely not 60mm of clearance there unfortunately.

230°F is up there for sure. What's your factory gauge indicating at that point? Slightly over the (not marked) halfway point? 110°C doesn't leave a lot of room but if that is your max max under testing then you'll likely not encounter that in real world conditions? Hopefully? Remind me: what was your max temp before? Or was it same but under less harsh conditions? And how was your EGT feeling about all this water temp attention ?

I'm curious about airbox results for sure! Haven't hooked up my widenose snorkel to the system yet and will need to modify anyway so why not improve?

Paving the way as usual! We appreciate it!
 
Good info. Thank you!

Driving in the summer with the heat on really hits home. Even pulled my AC belt so I wouldn't be tempted on the last trip.

Custom airbox and snorkel should help. Tor’s airbox with Duramax filter helped mine for sure. But I went from a K&N so a stack of wet napkins would have been an improvement.

Curious where other stock gauges are too. 225* F and my needle is touching the red on the stock gauge. Haven’t let it hit 230. Checking against an Auber sensor in the upper radiator hose.
 

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