Rear axle has 1564kg on it.
Front axle has 1300kg on it.
Complete weight is 2864kg running efs 4 inch 400kg constant load coils.
Radflo shocks
- Thread starter Nathjf88
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Rear axle has 1564kg on it.
Front axle has 1300kg on it.
Complete weight is 2864kg running efs 4 inch 400kg constant load coils.
Nice shocks. I am right now trying to decide which route to go. Looking at KING 2.5, Radflo 2.5 or might stick with a Fox 2.0. How do you like the Radflo's in general?
You are going to have to re-valve the shocks to control the extra spring rate and weight of your vehicle. This may require an increase in the gas pressure to handle the stiffer valving.
Glenn
- Thread starter
- #4
Yer mate there nice. Soft when u need then and takes big hits well. Stopped a lot of body roll.
- Thread starter
- #5
Do u have a recommend valve set and pressure to run Glenn ?
jtwopark
live, eat, sleep Land Cruiser!!!
shock is a shock, just want to get the most accessible shocks you can. I just stick with KINGS since they are local and they stand behind their products! Look at the products that are or will be available for the 80s
You are going to kill those shocks in the front! Ask me and I might tell you why!...hours and hours of testing them, I found the culprit of why I went through OME shocks and other shocks as well!
- Thread starter
- #7
How am I going to kill them then ?
jtwopark
live, eat, sleep Land Cruiser!!!
Run your shocks for a 20-40 minutes and touch the shock body! Report back to us what the temp of the shock body and res are
jtwopark
live, eat, sleep Land Cruiser!!!
I would kill the OME shock about 6 hours into my Death Valley trip and I had it replaced under warranty 3 times,once after each trip and arb would no longer warranty them as I was using the shock as not intended
jtwopark
live, eat, sleep Land Cruiser!!!
Also having the piggy back res will create issues down the line for both front hand back! Seems Donahoe people aren't putting the time nor the effort into the 80 kits! One kit has the front resi cantilevered on the front so that the res will vibrate and having the res in the rear mounted along the body of the shock will and might be a chance that you damage the res body when you bottom out!
- Thread starter
- #11
I have I live on a dirt road and regularly travel rough tracks. Much better shock then the amardas I replaced.
Ome aren't that great of a shock anyway. You guys over there seem to be attached to the Aussie shock like its a good thing when really there not.
Rubber mounted res so no issues with vibration and proper setup will stop any issue with bottoming out as u don't bottom the shock out plus the res sits higher then the bottom of the shock.
To me it sounds like your just buying gear not setting it up right and when it's trashed you want warranty.
One thing John does is he runs his gears pretty hard. 50-60 mph on wash board roads in DV for hours on end, he also does some pretty hard rock crawling too.
As far as getting things set up, there is no user setup for shocks. Just mount per manufactures instruction. But he doesn't even do that because he drops his truck off at kings and they set it up for him so think kings guys knows a thing or two abut setting up shocks.
As far as Aussie shocks goes, OME was a good shock in the late 90s...even that's really a stretch simply because that was the only choice for lifted 80 back in the days. Thank god we have MUCH better choices now.
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- Thread starter
- #13
The ome seem to be the 2 inch guy over here. Just people driving into arb and saying I want a 4wd with an open check book.
I don't know how kings USA set there shocks up but over here shock tuning places don't set bump stops up. Some of the big suspension joints don't as well. I still don't have a valid reason why I will kill these shocks ?
I don't know how kings USA set there shocks up but over here shock tuning places don't set bump stops up. Some of the big suspension joints don't as well. I still don't have a valid reason why I will kill these shocks ?
jtwopark
live, eat, sleep Land Cruiser!!!
Like I had stated before! Go run your truck for 30-40 minutes and check the temp on the shock body and res! Tell us what temp they are at!
Then we can try and solve the issue!
I'm beginning to get the hint that temperature might have something to do with it. Just a wild guess,I could be wrong though.
jtwopark
live, eat, sleep Land Cruiser!!!
Yes sir! You sir are a genius! Whole point of having a res shock is to keep it running cooler! Heat kills the oil in the shock and after an extended amount of use, causes fading!
Solution: many ways to solve the problem!
jtwopark
live, eat, sleep Land Cruiser!!!
One thing radflo actually did correctly is to use the shortest possible length of the hose from body to res
jtwopark
live, eat, sleep Land Cruiser!!!
I never just want warranty! Not my style! Setting it up? I just would like to say....I set it up the best I could and also have had reputable people overlook my setup and so far no issues! Just fine tuning the rest of the issues manufacturers have made!
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
That and you know... keep the nitrogen and oil separate...
I'd go with some flavor of 2.0 resi and talk to your good local shops or the manufacturer about having them valved. Most will valve them for free based on some info from you. That'll get you into the ball park. Close enough to probably not worry about fine tuning on something like an 80 series.
BUT, you might actually have to do some measuring and some flexing and maybe even make custom mounts. Heaven forbid. Make sure your high dollar shocks aren't the bump stop.
Theres nothing wrong with remote or piggyback shocks if you actually spend time and test everything. Resi's work well for this prolonged high speed rough terrain s*** you guys are talking about. Your standard emulsion shock mixes nitrogen with the oil and this aerates your oil and decreases damping. Your resis keep the oil and nitrogen separate so you're much less prone to shock fade, and the damping is much more consistent. They also help with cooling which helps with shock fade.
Personally I don't think anyone here is going to push an 80 series hard enough to need 2.5 resis and you'd be better off with a 2.0 resi than a 2.5 emulsion, IMO.
I'd go with some flavor of 2.0 resi and talk to your good local shops or the manufacturer about having them valved. Most will valve them for free based on some info from you. That'll get you into the ball park. Close enough to probably not worry about fine tuning on something like an 80 series.
BUT, you might actually have to do some measuring and some flexing and maybe even make custom mounts. Heaven forbid. Make sure your high dollar shocks aren't the bump stop.
Theres nothing wrong with remote or piggyback shocks if you actually spend time and test everything. Resi's work well for this prolonged high speed rough terrain s*** you guys are talking about. Your standard emulsion shock mixes nitrogen with the oil and this aerates your oil and decreases damping. Your resis keep the oil and nitrogen separate so you're much less prone to shock fade, and the damping is much more consistent. They also help with cooling which helps with shock fade.
Personally I don't think anyone here is going to push an 80 series hard enough to need 2.5 resis and you'd be better off with a 2.0 resi than a 2.5 emulsion, IMO.
2.5 remote res big bore shock will start to fade after 20 mins ?? wow. Them fellas with the big tough trucks that compete in offroad races must be doing it all wrong. What would u suggest if the 2.5 radflos can't handle a bit of offroad for more the 20 mins. Seems like a massive waste of 3k Nathan.
