Rad Drain Cock

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The drain on the rad. is a PITA to get to and makes a mess when you get it open. At least on my aftermarket radiator.

If I could find a 10mm (i think) drain cock, install it into the drain hole, would I be making more problems than I have now with having to replace the plastic drain plug every time I cross thread it?

It would stick out a little bit. The skid plate (if I ever reinstall it, broken bolt) should save it from below.
 
Why not make a "remote" drain by taking a foot long piece of durable hose with a threaded fitting in one end attached to the radiator and the other end with a petcock on it. Zip tie it up out of harm's way and when you drain it would go completely into a bucket to avoid spills. Then renew the zip tie and you're on your way.

DougM
 
erics_bruisers said:
this is nuts -- i have two OEM radiators, one 10 years old --

-- why didn't you get OEM?

e

The previous didn't take my advice when he replaced the rad :D
 
[hijack of another Kurt & his cock saga]

I have to replace a leaking freeze plug and need to drain the coolant. Since it's only 6 months and looks very good, I would like to drain it in a bucket and refill the radiator after replacing the freeze plug. Any suggestions on the best way to keep as much as possible from hitting the ground?

[/hijack]

-B-
 
In the past I have stuck a short section of quarter inch fuel hose on the drain outlet. The one I use is long enough to transit the front crossmember where the hole is. It is not leak-proof but it stops most of the wandering coolant that tends to flow along the crossmember. I use plastic gallon jugs to catch the drained coolant and as the jug approaches full I close the valve and switch out jugs. This may sound cumbersome but we have dogs and I DO NOT want them to get into the coolant. They will drink it and it wil kill them in a very distasteful manner. Antifreeze is a deadly poison and should be handled accordingly.
 
Thanks Dan, I'll try the quarter inch fuel hose.

>> Antifreeze is a deadly poison and should be handled accordingly. <<

It kills humans too. Saw on TV the other day where some woman killed her brother-in-law by giving him anti-freeze. She said she was just trying to disable him by causing kidney failure so she could milk his disability checks. She gave him too much. I guess she didn't have clear directions on the amount to maim vs kill.

-B-
 
So, are you going to put in a new freeze plug? If you live up north, you could call Cdan and order a block heater. Easier to install, plus you get a benefit.

DougM
 
Doug,
Yes, I have to put in a new freeze plug. We don't have much need for block heaters here in the desert SW but I am planning to weld a 1/8" female NPT bung in the freeze plug and use that for a GReddy temp guage ala photoman's set up. Robbie suggested using a bung in the freeze plug in another post a few months ago.

Anyone have a source for steel weld-in bungs? I've tried McMaster but they don't have them. I found one at an online speed shop but they have a minimum order and a couple bungs from them is gonna cost me.

-B-
 
Cool (rubbing hands), that's gonna be interesting. Which one's leaking?

DougM
 
The one directly above the block drain. Nice "stream" of dried pink coming from the bottom of the freeze plug. AFAIK, it's factory original with no outward sign of damage or ever being touched.

-B-
 
Not to rain on your parade, but have you tried tapping it in a bit deeper? I believe the freeze plug holes are tapered and you might achieve a tighter seal and be done with it. Or, you might completely blow the job and disable the vehicle on the spot <grin>.....

Seriously, I've pulled one out of my block (actually, I hammered it into the water jacket) and they're not rocket science.

DougM
 
Beowulf said:
...
Anyone have a source for steel weld-in bungs?
...

Your options increase if you consider that you can silver solder a brass fitting to the steel plug.
 
is the block a good place to pull temps from? that is where the cooled water comes in and most of the heat is in the upper cylinder and head,
 
-B- if you leave the rad cap on when you pull the drain plug not much will flow out.
On my 60 I had a couple of funnels set up under the drain (a small and large one) and got most of it in the bucket.
 
>> is the block a good place to pull temps from? <<

Maybe not the best place but we don't have a lot of options on the 1FZ-FE engine.

-B-
 
>> Your options increase if you consider that you can silver solder a brass fitting to the steel plug. <<

Rich,
Someone suggested "brazing" in a fitting. I know next to nothing about metal work and welding. Is this the same thing? I have one of those giant soldering irons my wife had for making stained glass windows a few years ago. Do you think that would that work?

-B-
 
Silver solder is a similar to brazing but with a silver alloy instead of brass, they are similar in that you melt a metal to fill the joint without melting the parent metal like you would with welding, allows you to make a weld like joint with on very different metals, generally not very strong but good enough for this task, usually brazing is done with oxy-acetylene, I have seen silver solder done with mapp gas on a gun barrel

Soldering irons wont get hot enough, lead alloy solder melts around 400*F, silver solder around 800*F not sure about brass but it is up there
 
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My drain plug is 10mm the thread is 1.50.
Its not the same as the OEM radiator.
Where can I get a drain cock or fitting to put a hose on it?
Do they make brake hose with the corse thread?

I tried to put a hose in the drain when I removed it but couldn't get on in there.
If you remove the cap and put it back on then remove the drain plug, Very little will drain out.

Unless you can get a hose in the drain hole, you will never save the old coolant without getting dirt in it. Trying to save the coolant from the block would be very hard, as it comes out fast then it drain down the block. If you had your motor spotless, you may be able to catch all the coolant without getting it dirty.
 
Kurt,

I saw a variety of radiator drain plugs on the shelf at the local NAPA. Some were generic and some were brand specific. They might have something that will replace yours and they might set you up with somthing that has fittings on both ends.

-B-
 

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