Quik Hinge Installation

[69LC]

So tell us about the end result following the effort?

If anyone reading has what is often referred to as “sausage fingers”, there is a portion of the instructions for you about finding a willing wife or kid to help.

 

[darwink1]

Awesome product for sure, literally takes a minute to remove my doors. A couple pins instead of the nuts and bolts at the limit straps helps speed things up too.

D

 

[gte037p]

Will this install on the passenger side with a Vintage Air A/C unit installed?

 

[69LC]

I can’t speak for the Vintage Air, but the hinges bolt on directly in place of the factory parts.

Does the Vintage Air block access to the right hinges?

 

[oregon fj]

If you can access and remove the factory hinges with Vintage Air in place, you should be able to install the Quick Hinges. They take up no more room on the tub than the factory hinges do.

 

[1Fine40]

A minor hitch in my git-a-long with these has been that the top bolt head on the passenger side is now stripped/rounded. It will not come out!
All the others went fine but this stinker! Any ideas for me? A blue tip wrench is out of the question due to location and new paint..
I welcome any and all bolt removal ideas that might be worth trying here..

Thanks!

 

[hobbes]

No great ideas. Did you try a wrench like I used in post 18? Sometimes a slightly different wrench can bite just enough. With that wrench, it surrounds the bolt head and with the ratchet feature you can still turn it. If there is any of the gasket material interfering by the bulk head, be sure to try to scrape that away if you can.

7/16” wrench? Strongly doubt you have the room for a #6 bolt out, but you might check.

 

[69LC]

I know it wouldn't be my first thing to try, but if all else fails you could pull the windshield hinge, cut a clearance-access hole to be about to drive a socket on. The access hole could either be welded shut or just covered and sealed over with the windshield hinge.

 

[swelltimes]

A minor hitch in my git-a-long with these has been that the top bolt head on the passenger side is now stripped/rounded. It will not come out!
All the others went fine but this stinker! Any ideas for me? A blue tip wrench is out of the question due to location and new paint..
I welcome any and all bolt removal ideas that might be worth trying here..View attachment 1796395

Thanks!

If you used a sharp file (and a lot of patience), I wonder if you'd be able to flatten one / two sides down enough to get a larger wrench on the bolt head? Or use one of those reciprocating multitools to cut the bolt head off? I can't quit remember the size of the space in that area without looking at my truck.

 

[1Fine40]

No great ideas. Did you try a wrench like I used in post 18? Sometimes a slightly different wrench can bite just enough. With that wrench, it surrounds the bolt head and with the ratchet feature you can still turn it. If there is any of the gasket material interfering by the bulk head, be sure to try to scrape that away if you can.

7/16” wrench? Strongly doubt you have the room for a #6 bolt out, but you might check.

Have tried a gear wrench since that is what I used on all of the other bolts. That is what rounded off the bolt head! I also tried just a plain 12mm box wrench, 12 point, but no dice. I might try a "bolt out", but it would be very, very tight in there plus how do I hammer it on the bolt head??

 

[1Fine40]

I know it wouldn't be my first thing to try, but if all else fails you could pull the windshield hinge, cut a clearance-access hole to be about to drive a socket on. The access hole could either be welded shut or just covered and sealed over with the windshield hinge.

Yeah, I thought a bit about that, but since I just finished all the paint and body work, it is very low on my options list at the moment...

 

[1Fine40]

If you used a sharp file (and a lot of patience), I wonder if you'd be able to flatten one / two sides down enough to get a larger wrench on the bolt head? Or use one of those reciprocating multitools to cut the bolt head off? I can't quit remember the size of the space in that area without looking at my truck.

It is darned tight up there, not much room for anything really. Not even sure I can fit a 3/8" ratchet and socket in there...was hoping there was
some kind of "miracle wrench" that I didn't know about that could get the sucker out!! Short of that, I guess I go but a "bolt out" type socket and give that a whirl...has anyone used those? Do they work at all??

 

[swelltimes]

I've had good luck with the bolt-out style removers, but it sounds like space is an issue.

What about something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Damaged-Remover-Profile-Bolt-out/dp/B00LU8RTVY

 

[hobbes]

Long Harbor Freight 7/16” that’s ground open just a bit and tapped in place? That’s a tough spot for sure...

Also, and I know I mentioned this, maybe a different make wrench (gear or not) will bite just enough...

Edit: the bolt out kit swelltimes linked to is the same one I have. I just checked on my passenger side, it does fit but it’s tight on the 19mm gear wrench I tried to swing it with. Going one size big (7, vice 6) it was at an angle that I could swing the gear wrench to drive it. I’m skeptical that bite would be enough in your case since it’s at an angle. It might just round the bolt more. Or just wind up stuck up there forever. But something to consider before cutting into the body.

 

[69LC]

QUIK Hinges

 

[1Fine40]

Question for Hobbes: Does that bolt out set require a ratchet like 3/8"? Or just a ratcheting gearwrench type wrench? I cannot fit a ratchet
head and socket up there, it is just too tight! A gear wrench might work if the bolt out takes that.
Before I go that route, I am trying to use a 6 point box wrench on it just to see if it will have enough grip to break it free. Had to online order one, so maybe by weekend I can try it. Wish me luck!

 

[Blue77FJ40]

If you have access to Kroil, I'd put some on and let it sit. It's bound to help. Also the 6 point socket/wrench is a better bet than 12 point for something like this (and most other situations). The 12 point gear wrench is great for initial installation, but the 6 point rules for final snugging. If you can't get a tap/thread cleaner into the threads, I'd at least slip some anti-seize if the going isn't smooth and easy. Best of luck.

 

[hobbes]

Agreed on the 6 point. Definitely start there! You don’t want to damage the bolt head any more before you are out of ideas. Hopefully the 6 point solves it for you. It does appear that with squeezing you can get access to the threads on the backside, so as Blue77FJ40 mentioned, Kroil or PB Blaster on the threads now so it can soak if you haven’t done so already. Might need to get creative with a long straw or small hose extension. After you do that you could try tapping the hinge a bit to move things around. Hopefully help the penetrating oil do it’s thing.

If you resort to a bolt-out, below is a photo of one in place. It was too tight to get a photo with the wrench on it. You might have to grind the outside of the wrench down a bit to get everything flat. Once the bolt broke free, you’d want that thing off. It’ll be too long once the bolt starts backing out.

 

[1Fine40]

Thank you Hobbes and Blue! Have PB blaster on it as I type. Wrench coming tomorrow, fingers crossed!!

 

[BRShap]

Thank you Hobbes and Blue! Have PB blaster on it as I type. Wrench coming tomorrow, fingers crossed!!

I hope you get that sucker out! Recalcitrant fasteners are the worst.