Quickjack

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Used for... lifting a vehicle? I'm confused. Really thinking about ordering one, but would like to hear any downsides or issues.
 
Found it

Pinch-weld rails
Your Mustang probably has a unibody frame. So, instead of conventional lift points on the underbody, there’s a pinch-weld rail that needs to be engaged. Good on you for recognizing that pinch-weld lifting blocks are recommended when using two-post lifts and portable car lifts (any frame-engaging lift). When you try to lift a unibody construction without pinch welds, you don’t properly engage the lift points, which can bend the rail, cut into the lift pad, render the lifting application less effective and potentially cause an uneven lift.
 
Ah, OK. That makes sense. Yes, that is why they sell those accessory blocks for lifting at those pinch-weld jacking points. Both our Highlander and the IS250 have this type of lifting point. I have a chunk of hard oak that I cut with a groove like that for my floor jack, it works really well, I just used it again yesterday.
 
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KLF,

The Mighty Car Mods guys use those in their shed...for example:

Otherwise the folks over a Garage Journal will have info for you.

Nick
 
Does anybody know if the 200 series LC has these pinch weld jacking points?
 
No, you would lift it from the frame. Lifting it from the body seam would rip the body off the frame.

I assumed I would need the longer BL-7000EXT model for the 200, but it turns out the regular SLX model is plenty long enough.
 
KLF said:
No, you would lift it from the frame. Lifting it from the body seam would rip the body off the frame.

I assumed I would need the longer BL-7000EXT model for the 200, but it turns out the regular SLX model is plenty long enough.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I called Bendpak and they also recommended the regular model, but they did not know too much about the specific vehicle
 
Their website has some of the best documents and drawings ever, especially for an engineer-type like me. There's a really useful form you can download for measuring all your vehicles and guiding you though which is the best model to get. I think the SUV adapter kit would be needed for maximum lift of a 200-series.

https://www.quickjack.com/downloads/QuickJack-Vehicle-Measurement-Worksheet.pdf

The FAQ's and Knowledge Base section answers all your questions, and there's a ton of impressive and clever videos on YouTube. One shows them lifting over 20,000 lbs with the 5,000 lb model.
 
Bumping to post a great deal on the 7000lb model. Sometimes it pays to be lazy and put off that big purchase...

Got a few projects planned for the Cruiser this summer, so it's time to get my Quickjack. I was on their site last night just about to click the Buy button and pay $1525 for the BL-7000SLX model. At the last second I figured I'd do a Google search, and discovered that Home Depot has a great deal on this same model, with free delivery. $226 off, $1299 to your door! Gotta hurry, offer expires tomorrow!

www.homedepot.com

QUICKJACK BL-7000SLX 7,000 lbs. Capacity Portable Car Lift BL-7000SLX-AC-110V - The Home Depot

Raise your vehicle with this QuickJack BL-7000SLX portable car lift. This 7,000-lb. capacity system fully rises in 31 seconds, with lower and upper safety locks automatically engaging for safety. For a fast, leak-free setup, it offers quick-connect hoses. An open-center design delivers clear...
www.homedepot.com

I'll update this thread when mine arrives and I get the Cruiser up in the air on it, let you know my impressions. I did a LOT of measuring and testing with my floor jack, I figured out I DON'T need the special SUV adapters, I can do it all with the blocks that come with it.
 
Ken, My brother has something like that under his 911 so I'll ask him what manufacture. Let us know how that works for the Cruiser. Should help with the frame wax predicament.
 
Minor update, these showed up today, one week after ordering. Still no power unit, I assume that package is coming from a different location. These suckahs are heavy!

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Another update. Finally pulled these out of all the boxes today. Setup was relatively easy, just putting fittings on hoses and such. Filled the reservoir tank on the pump and fired it up. Took a couple of minutes to prime the pump and the lines, but eventually the platforms started to work, slowly. Turns out this is due to all the air in the lines. Bleeding the cylinders is a messy proposition, and I learned it works much better if you stand the unit up on end so the bleeder screw is at the top. Eventually got all the air out, cleaned up the drooled ATF. Then I discovered the pump unit has a significant leak, right at the pressure relief valve :mad:

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Not sure how to fix this, but I'm not even gonna try. Will have to call them on Monday to find out what's up.

So no lifting of the Cruiser yet. This thing is freeking BEEFY though. No concerns about strength or stability.
 
This stinks. I've been following this thread and I'm really curious about how you find it works out. While I'd prefer a two-post I'd need an actual garage first. :lol:

I guess we will found out about their customer support.
 
Well so far I am impressed with the support at Bendpak. I submitted a ticket on Saturday night, with a photo of the leak (posted above). This morning a nice gent called me, thanked me for the nice photo, and asked me a few questions. He found the order in their system, so he explained how the pump system worked once he figured out I was comfortable with troubleshooting and taking some things apart. He said it was either a missing or damaged O-ring on the pressure relief, or a defective part. When I got home this afternoon, I sent him a few more photos, he promised to get back to me in the morning with an update on the parts they were going to send me. The thing is really easy to get out, the O-ring looks fine to me, but who knows. I've learned they can be finicky sometimes.

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Meanwhile I had an issue with what I thought was a bad wheel bearing (which wasn't), so I wanted to give this thing a try, even if it was leaking. It takes awhile to get it positioned properly, several up and down cycles to get it just right, but eventually I got a system figured out.

IMG_20190520_190643.webp


I started by lifting from the frame where it starts to taper in at the front, and from the lower control arm mount in the rear. It worked fine, but I didn't like how it distorted the rubber block.

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So I shifted to just stacking both the 3" and 2" blocks and lifting from the frame.

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It works really well. It is actually much more stable than I expected, I really gave it a few good hard shoves and it is just totally solid. And it goes up and down faster than I expected, the pump doesn't even seem to be working hard. It only draws 5.2 amps when running, so no issues with electric.

I did a lot of measuring before ordering, I decided I didn't need the special SUV blocks, as I was worried it would raise it too high and would hit my garage door opener. Turns out I still have over 6" of clearance when the thing is at the highest setting. I have access to lots of scrap steel and a welding shop, so I may fab up something myself. Tires are about 3" above the floor, there's almost 20" clear under the front skidplate to roll under on a creeper, so a couple more inches would be nice.

Overall, I am pleased, and I'm glad I bought the thing (despite the minor leak, that seems to be slowing down). Would buy again! Looking forward to trying it out on other cars, like my son't little NA Miata. Any questions, let me know.
 
Ken, my eyes! That hurt to see your frame. It is beautiful up there and I know you have to drive something during the salt months but ouch. My 62 looks new by comparison. I think I would lease vehicles and trade them in without looking back every 3 years.

Sorry for my weak stomach. The lift is nice. I wonder if you can chalk lines on the floor for settings for the different vehicles showing where to place the arms and pads. Or a stencil on cardboard that you can slide under, orient by key locations, then set the arms. But then you'll probably be able to do it first time after a dozen lifts.
 
Hi Dave!

LOL... I was wondering how long it was gonna take for someone to freak out about the surface rust. It really isn't very bad, just getting started. I intentionally haven't oiled it yet, as a) I intend to put a lift on the truck this summer (hence the QuickJack) and don't want everything all slimy, and b) there is a local place near my house that does oiling, and they say their recipe actually sticks better on steel that has a little surface rust here and there, they recommended I wait another year. So it will get a treatment this Fall, and be fine.
 
Another update. New part arrived the either day from BendPak, very easy to swap, leak is fixed.

It takes awhile to get this thing sorted the first time you lift a vehicle, where to put the blocks, where to position the lifting stands, etc. But it really works well. I'm gonna make some patterns and put marks on the stands where to put everything, to make it to faster in the future. I used my table saw to cut a slice through the center of each block do it can straddle the pinch weld on other cars. Thinking about making some custom blocks for the Cruiser to get another inch or 2 of height.

Put the pump on an old printer stand with casters, makes it much easier to move around, and gives me a place to store hoses.

Lifts the Miata like it's not even there.

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Saw one in Costco today that comes in 3 boxes and cost $999
 
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