Questions before I buy this LX 470 with some rust [long]. I have lurked for a while here.

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Hey all, I just joined and this is my first post but I've been crawling around this site for quite some time doing research. I am looking at older large SUVs for <$10k, for reference.

I have the opportunity to buy a 2000 LX 470 this weekend, 113k miles, single owner no accidents, 90k service done, carfax has all the services since new, done at lexus dealer mostly. It's $8500 and it runs and drives really well. All the electrical stuff/HVAC seems to work well and it's actually got a Kenwood double-DIN aftermarket headunit in it, which saves me the nightmare of converting it later.

It's pretty much impossible to find an LX or LC from 2000-2005 with actual service records and "low" miles for less than like $15k it seems.

The only thing that has me a little spooked is that there's generally rust pretty much all over the underside of it. I haven't read any LX/LC horror threads online like with the Tacomas that break in half, but I didn't want to assume anything.

It's an NC car but it lived in the mountains. I live in central NC where nothing really rusts. I don't see any actual frame pieces that are rusted through, but it is liberally coated in rust underneath the vehicle and there is a paper thin area that "flaked" off around where one of the rear suspension pieces attaches. There is what looks like a skid plate over the gas tank that has rusted through in one corner, hole is maybe the size of my fist. Is this a structural component or nonessential?

If you step on the rear part of the running boards, they flex down quite a bit because the rearmost support member at the rear has rust on it and is compromised. The middle/front of the running board is strong. I don't care about keeping the running boards but I'm just pointing out the spots. Body looks to be rust free, I don't see anything on the tailgate or anything. At the very edge of the bottom of the bumper, down where the trailer hitch is, I do see some rust at the edge bumper plastic. The body is really super clean. I noted on the carfax that brake lines have been replaced. I am aware of the rear AC line possibilities.

Ideally this will be a daily driver, I put about 12k miles a year on my car. Realistically I doubt I'll take it off road much if ever. I expect to own it 5-7 years.

So, is this vehicle an absolute run-away-from-it scenario at any price? Is this a livable situation if I live in a rust-free area? Will it continue to rust through and I'm totally screwed no matter what?
 
As a long term resident of the saltiest, most corrosive roads on the planet (Syracuse, NY), I'd suggest you walk away and keep on looking especially if you're considering keeping and driving the car as a daily for 5-7 years. It really won't cost you much more money to buy a rust-free (or close to rust-free) example of the species; even if you spend another grand or two for one without so much rust, spread that $2K over 7 years, and it's less than $300/year extra for a vehicle that is MUCH less likely to be a maintenance headache or possbily become unsafe due to frame rot in the near future. Why take that chance?

I recently put my money where my advice is and walked away from a 2007 4Runner w/ less than $80K on it, one-owner Carfax, drove great, everything worked, NO issues, for $11K, from a well known and reputable local dealership. It was a pretty good deal, I thought, and knew they'd back up the truck w/ good service if anything happened after the sale. Why walk away? The undercarriage, while still sound and solid, was coated with rust, and the control arms, transmission support member, and other parts were starting to flake as you described. Still had at least another few good years in it, but I tend to keep my vehicles for the very long haul, typically putting another 150k and 10 years on them (and I always buy used to start wtih). Sooo... drove 5 hours south to small dealership unknown to me and bought a rust-free '05 LX470 w/ 135K on it and a few small issues (power mirror gears, non-working Levinson CD changer, blown subwoofer, unmounted but working Levinson amp, and no hitch.. the 4Runner had one) for $3500 more. Older car, more miles, less convenient, more issues, more risk (due to out of town small dealer).. and more vehicle, granted... but as far as I'm concerned it was worth it. I hate rust. You'll hate it too, the first time you crawl under the car and have that stuff fall in your eyeballs while you're wrenching.

Would you rather spend a few extra grand now and have a vehicle that's easier to repair/maintain, or save the money now and spend it (and probably more) over the next few years fixing a car that's much more difficult to repair and maintain due to rust? Easy question, at least for me. Rusty, cheap, disposable cars have their place and I have a fond place in my heart for them, but their place doesn't intersect with long-term enjoyment or high-end vehicles.
 
The protector over the gas tank is not structural. There are threads on it.
pictures would help for folks on the forum to evaluate. The definition of 'a lot of rust' vary widely. :)
 
For some reason that gas tank protector is the first to go a lot of times when rust occurs, it seems to basically be made of tissue paper metal. It seems that for a little more you might be able to find one that suits your needs better. You are closer than a lot of us to rust free areas.
 
After talking to a friend and posting here, I decided to pass on this vehicle. It was pretty difficult to text the guy and say no thanks because otherwise it was perfect, but it's probably better to hold out for one with no rust, or less than this one. Sucks now but in the long run I'll probably be less worried, since it's going to be a DD.
 
I've seen people request other forum members to check out LCs before. Why not shop in the deep south, get someone to check out a truck for you, get a one-way ticket and drive it back? Or just shop online, get as many photos and as much intel as possible, and take a chance. IMO safer than gambling on a rust bucket.
 
You made the right choice. Be patient, be willing to shop outside your local area and DON'T BUY RUST.
 
It may not be a bad idea to take the approaches you all are suggesting. I absolutely fell in love with the LX 470 I drove, so I know that I really like the LC/LX "100" platform a lot. Thinking about that made me realize I should go for a cleaner one, because I think I could keep a vehicle like this for a very long time. I used to have a Volvo XC90 (first gen) but there were some really ridiculous engineering choices made on that vehicle and it made basic maintenance a chore.
 
I just found this. Go buy this!
2001 Lexus LX470

This^^^ It's worth a check as it looks nice and is local. Miles do not matter really.


from the CL

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Clean title and CARFAX. California vehicle until 2016; therefore, no rust at all. Minor dents and scratches for the year model. It is not perfect but not far from it. Black/gray exterior with ivory interior. 169,000 miles that will go up daily. Less than 5,000 miles on Michelin A/T tires. Everything works. New brakes and suspension alignment. I do not have to sell but I drive 80 miles per day and hate to see the mileage driven up on such a rare vehicle. I landed this vehicle on a trade but we love it and will continue to drive it unless we receive asking price. $10,500 firm. No trades unless the value is $13,000 or greater. Email phone number and I will contact. There will be no tire kickers - pre-approval or cash to see.
 
I emailed the guy, thanks! 10.5k seems fine assuming it's in the shape I'd expect.
 
Also, totally off-topic, but has anyone had trouble getting financing for an older vehicle like this or know what banks are a bit friendlier about it? I can pay cash but I'd certainly finance it if the rates were good.
 
That LX in Charlotte looks nice. Plus it's a year newer and doesn't have Nav. 169k is still low miles. If it checks out, I'd pull the trigger.
 
Never intentionally buy a vehicle with rust. Don’t ever buy it.
 
I know rust sucks but some of you guys make it seem like it's the end of the world. Maybe from living in the rust belt I have a different mind set... I don't know.
 
Also, totally off-topic, but has anyone had trouble getting financing for an older vehicle like this or know what banks are a bit friendlier about it? I can pay cash but I'd certainly finance it if the rates were good.

Do I dare say I financed my 100... either way, I had no issue getting the loan through my local credit union. They capped the term at four years but that wasn't an issue for me. That's about it really; same APR as if I were to buy something "new."
 
Do I dare say I financed my 100... either way, I had no issue getting the loan through my local credit union. They capped the term at four years but that wasn't an issue for me. That's about it really; same APR as if I were to buy something "new."

Good to know. You know, I don't think there's anything inherently wrong with financing a car this old AS LONG AS you had the money to pay for it outright and are just taking advantage of a sweet 1.9% loan or something. Or if you financed a portion of it to bump up to a newer/more reliable one. Financing an 18 year old car while just barely scraping by on the payments is a fool's errand however.
 
Good to know. You know, I don't think there's anything inherently wrong with financing a car this old AS LONG AS you had the money to pay for it outright and are just taking advantage of a sweet 1.9% loan or something. Or if you financed a portion of it to bump up to a newer/more reliable one. Financing an 18 year old car while just barely scraping by on the payments is a fool's errand however.

I mean, I personally financed a small portion because my previous car was on its way out and I had been looking for a Cruiser. Was just a specific situation I was in. That and I wanted to build some credit, and my payment and insurance combined is as much as I was paying for just insurance on my last car.

Call me an idiot, but hey, life goes on. I don't intend to still be paying it off in a year and a half.
 
I know rust sucks but some of you guys make it seem like it's the end of the world. Maybe from living in the rust belt I have a different mind set... I don't know.

For me its the same philosophy as not marrying an ugly girl. Why would you...when there are plenty of pretty one's around.

Again, be patient...don't buy rust.

I understand that those who live in the rust belt...must live with the fact that any vehicle they drive is eventually going to rust. But I sure as heck wouldn't start out with one that was that way.
 
For me its the same philosophy as not marrying an ugly girl. Why would you...when there are plenty of pretty one's around.

Again, be patient...don't buy rust.

I understand that those who live in the rust belt...must live with the fact that any vehicle they drive is eventually going to rust. But I sure as heck wouldn't start out with one that was that way.

I think the key is location here. If I were in Boston, I would have bought the LX 470 that I drove last night. However, I live in the Triangle area in NC (2 million people), so I can pass it up for another one. I think another key, I'm beginning to understand, is that it pays to look around - not just in your own city.

One of the things I love about the 100s is that, based on everything I've read, the engine and (for the most part) trans are extremely durable if cared for. I love the idea of buying a 15yo LC and driving it another 10 years. They don't make cars like this anymore.
 

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