Question, play in wheel bearings???
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Who said anything about sanding on the spindle? I said that it was backwards thinking as your removing more material. In other words a bad idea...
No offense taken, but I don't think you've read or understand all my posts. I'm well aware of proper procedure for setting the preload and followed Landtanks DIY. I still got play in the passenger front wheel after 1000 miles. This is my reason for going to 15ft/lbs on the inner nut the second time. I always torque the outer nut to 45ft/lbs, then bend one tab (of the star washer) over the inner nut and one over the outer nut. The thrust washer did have some wear, so I will replace it the next time I am in there.
The issue may be that I didn't put enough preload on the inner nuts the first time which would me awesome as I've already corrected that. But it's odd that when I did the bearing repack (1000 miles ago) the passenger front outer bearing was toast, so it was replaced, only for this same bearing to get loose now ( after 1000 miles). Thus if it happens again I am suspecting the spindle. I know spindle replacement in not common, but perhaps this is an issue from lack of maintainance from the PO.
Sorry if I'm coming off as a dick as I don't mean to be. Thanks for the input.
Im sure you will be find you solution. Sorry if my post was helpful
Sorry didn't mean to imply that you are a hack. That was just a general comment after seeing the work of hacks this weekend on my own truck.
I'm dealing with worn spindles myself. They were already slightly worn when I bought the truck with 135 k on it, but I was able to set the preload, and in the begining it would hold for around 5-8 thousand miles untill I would need to redo it. It slowly got worse untill now at 170k I could set the preload and it would stay tight, but the bearing would still moving on the spindle.
Most of my wear is on the bottom where the outer bearing rides, but its also worn on the inner side as well. I staked the bottom of mine with a punch around a thousand miles ago and they are holding for now. I don't expect it to last forever, I am just getting used to fact that I need 2 spindles, bearings and races.
Most of my wear is on the bottom where the outer bearing rides, but its also worn on the inner side as well. I staked the bottom of mine with a punch around a thousand miles ago and they are holding for now. I don't expect it to last forever, I am just getting used to fact that I need 2 spindles, bearings and races.
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I hear ya dude, I don't want to dump that kind of cash into it if I can make it last another 30,000 miles as is. That's 3+ years at our usage...
I think I'll just pull it apart again this weekend and inspect the spindle for wear. If ok I'll just reassemble. If worn baddly, I'll place some dimples and run it awhile.
I actually have a 1994 parts truck, but with 181k, who knows if those spindles are any better.
I took my smallest pin punch and ground the tip to a point, and then hit around the worn part of spindle 6 or 7 times
Whoops, I hit the spindles about 50-75 times each where the bearing sit, but then I didn't have a punch so was using a #2 Phillips head two inch bit and BFH and many of the dimples were small/shallow so probably got smaller dimples than you made with your sharpened punch. Before I staked it the outer bearing slipped on the spindle would rock at 6 and 12 o'clock but was nice and tight after I dimpled/staked it. Time will tell if it helps.
I did stake the rear like this and it would work for the front as well. First, buy a set of new bearings so that you KNOW that you are working with an ID that is in spec. Get a good punch that comes to a point like a 16 penny nail does. Make punch marks on the underside of the spindle from 4 o'clock to 8 o'clock position while hitting harder on the 6 o'clock position to raise it the most. Once you do this, try to slide the new bearing on the spindle. It should NOT slide on. Buy a strip of Emory cloth. Put it around the spindle and pull from the top ( both hands above the spindle) like the Emory cloth is a belt wrapped around the lower half only so it is smoothing out your dimples. Work it a few times, then try to slide the NEW bearing on the spindle. Keep doing it until the NEW bearing slides all the way to the factory lip on the spindle.
I personally use a torque wrench and set the front to 20 pounds. I run the truck pretty hard and repack the bearings ever 20+ k miles. Admittedly, my friends make fun of me for using the torque wrench ever chance I can when I am able to find the specific torque in the FSM. But Hey, screw them
...............I don't have a problem................
I personally use a torque wrench and set the front to 20 pounds. I run the truck pretty hard and repack the bearings ever 20+ k miles. Admittedly, my friends make fun of me for using the torque wrench ever chance I can when I am able to find the specific torque in the FSM. But Hey, screw them
...............I don't have a problem................elhombre; I ended doing about the same thing you described, most dimples at 6 and 12 o'clock, some on the sides at 9 and 3. Couldn't get the bearing on so used emory cloth until I could just get it on and off but with no play front to back. The next spindle I did I forgot to test it with a bearing so after I tossed the hub back on then the outer bearing it was difficult to get all the way back at first so I used a small brass drift to gently coax it back and level. I checked to see that it wasn't stuck by rocking the hub until it loosened back up. Finished by torquing the adjusting nut to 15 ft lbs and called it good. I did notice as others have said (?Spike), when I loosened the adjusting nut back from the 43 ft lbs then tightened it back to 15, the nut turned about half way to where it was at 43.