Question About This Aluminum Radiator- Missing AT Cooler Line Fittings

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That makes sense to me, I honestly didn't consider the warming function of the operation when I made my decision, was totally focused on keeping the trans cool under hard working conditions. Also functioning Off the logic that if my radiator itself was able to spring an external leak, the possibility of an internal component leaking was not unreasonable. Good to know.
 
So can anyone tell me what the dimensions or size of the line that goes into the radiator? This would help me figure out if it is plausible to try to recreate the stock system.
 
So can anyone tell me what the dimensions or size of the line that goes into the radiator? This would help me figure out if it is plausible to try to recreate the stock system.

The stock setup is a coolant to oil heat exchanger, kinda like a plate type cooler.
 
Valid concern, IMO.



Pretty sure the line just widens into a larger diameter (1-2 inches?) pipe that runs from one side of the lower tank to the other.

After I replaced my rad a couple months ago, I broke my original OEM radiator apart so I could recycle the aluminum. In the process I broke out the plastic tanks and got an excellent view of the transmission warmer. I wish I had taken a picture of it. The trans warmer is more than just a pipe as noted above. It looks very much like a longer version of the engine oil cooler shown on page LU-15. It is a substantial and heavy aluminum piece with several fins along both sides.
 

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So I finally got started on this job and all I have to say is I'm glad I decided to replace the radiator. I had thick grey "oil sludge" in the original, most likely from my headgasket failure a couple of years ago... or so I thought. I pulled the tranny oil cooler from the original radiator to see what I was dealing with, and lo and behold it was leaking AT fluid into the radiator.

Based on what everyone here has said and after weighing the pros and cons, I want to delete the AT cooler from the radiator in order to reduce coolant temps and avoid any future oil/coolant cross contamination. That being said, I realize the benefits of the stock system and would still like to pick everyone's brains on how I could have some sort of fluid warming effect that mimics the stock setup. I'm thinking the easiest way to do this would be to keep the OEM lines and put something in place of the original radiator oil cooler. I like the idea of an air exchanger and mounting it in a "warm area", but I'm having trouble visualizing how this would work. Anybody else have any ideas or care to chime in? :idea:
 
you could find one of the heat exchanger type devices that plumbs in line with the heater hose and has two ports to route fluid through it and then route to cooler mounted in front of the radiator.

If were me...I would just install a reasonable sized cooler in front of the radiator and call it a day.

some of them look like this http://www.ejbowman.co.uk/products/EngineOilCoolers.htm the heat exchanger type.

The cooler that mounts in front of the radiator is or can be a stacked plate type or other style.

of course the right solution is to use the correct radiator to start with...but you have what you have now.
 
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If it were me, I would just buy a real radiator and call it a day. After you add up all the fittings, coolers, time, I see zip ties, what are you going to get. The answer, a new radiator in 3 years.
 
They are the same lines. It's a bypass system, some of the pumped fluid goes out through the lines, both coolers and back to the pan.

On my '91, this is not the case. Can't say for certain on FZJ but would bet it's the same...

Trans fluid exists the passenger side of tranny and flows into the bottom tank of the radiator on the passenger side. Then fluid exists bottom tank on the driver side and flows directly into the cooler mounted in front of the radiator. Fluid then exits the front mounted cooler and returns to the transmission. No 'bypass system'. Unless you put one in like it did in the pic below.

With the switches in one direction I completely bypass the lower radiator tank. I bypass the rad tank in the summer.

96Beast, I think you're making this too difficult. If you live where it's warm, I would not worry about the lower tank. If during your first several minutes of driving in the morning, you are going slow enough to keep the torque converter unlocked, your trans fluid will warm up just fine. I would be concerned with the lack of warmer if you immediately jumped on the HWY and got torque converter lock up...this may prevent your fluid from reaching optimal temperature.
TrannyCoolerValves.webp
 
So I finally finished this big project. In addition to replacing the radiator, I also replaced the plugs, air filter, front main seal, oil pump cover gasket, radiator hoses, T-stat, PCV valve and vacuum hoses and replaced the fluid in my fan clutch to 20K. I also flushed, flushed, flushed till I was blue in the face. For the trans oil cooler hoses, I ended up just getting some 3/8" trans hose and connecting the pipe that usually goes into the radiator right into the external air cooler. It shifts and feels the same as before. Hopefully my tranny won't blow up from lacking the radiator cooler and for added protection I'll probably flush and replace with synthetic fluid in the near future (maybe before it gets cold here).

Anyway, other than the transmission dilemma, I am very happy with the performance and function of the radiator considering the low price and my skepticism. My temperatures are considerably lower than before I did all of this work. I was consistently running in the 200-210 range in the Texas heat, even under low load and cruising at 60mph. After a few days with the new radiator and tune-up I am running at 180-185 at speed per scangauge, with a high of 190 after idling for 10 minutes. Overall I am happy with the way it is set up now, and being in such a hot climate, I think I would rather have the lower coolant temps I've achieved than have my tranny fluid heat up faster. However, whether the markedly lower temps is due to the new radiator and trans cooler delete or my other cooling system work (new T-stat, cap, lots of flushing)... we will never know. Just add this anecdotal evidence to the vast repository of information on this site I guess! :cool:
 
How would the stock integrated radiator tranny cooler help the ATF fluid warm up? wouldn't the water in the radiator just sit during initial warm up anyhow? IE: thermostat staying closed during engine warm up.

Seems to me you are worrying about a problem that does not exist? unless my thinking is wrong?

Noah
 
Valid question guppie, I think the real answer is nobody knows for sure. Anyway, I'm two years into the new radiator and AT warmer/cooler delete and haven't had any problems. Coolant temps are still in the 180-190 range and I still believe the lower temps on the engine long term are more beneficial than a "quick warm up" of the trans. It would be interesting to measure the trans temps and compare to a stock cruiser but I'll prolly never get around to it. Anyway thanks for all that responded!
 
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