question about engine oil: trying to do an oil change on my own - GX470

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Dec 28, 2021
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Location
Strong Island, NY
for a 2006 GX470 with 222,xxx miles

Hi all, as the title suggests, I am going to try to do an oil change on my own. My question is what kind of 5w30 to use: stick with the Toyota OEM from dealership or will any off-shelf brand do? I assume I have to use conventional rather than synthetic? If off-shelf, what brands do you all recommend (Castrol, Valvoline, etc)

I will be using an OEM oil filter (less than $5.00 from dealership so its OK with me).

I did use Google and the forum search but did not find a direct thread about this, I am sure it has been discussed and debated to death... or not?

Thanks in advance.
 
for a 2006 GX470 with 222,xxx miles

Hi all, as the title suggests, I am going to try to do an oil change on my own. My question is what kind of 5w30 to use: stick with the Toyota OEM from dealership or will any off-shelf brand do? I assume I have to use conventional rather than synthetic? If off-shelf, what brands do you all recommend (Castrol, Valvoline, etc)

I will be using an OEM oil filter (less than $5.00 from dealership so its OK with me).

I did use Google and the forum search but did not find a direct thread about this, I am sure it has been discussed and debated to death... or not?

Thanks in advance.
It’s all your choice imo. I generally go with a cheap synthetic 5w30 (typically Castrol) just so I can go a bit farther on oil changes (generally run 6k instead of 3k.)
I used to only run Mobil 1 or Amsoil back when I ran higher performance/boosted applications but this thing is stock outside of the lift/tires and all.
 
It’s all your choice imo. I generally go with a cheap synthetic 5w30 (typically Castrol) just so I can go a bit farther on oil changes (generally run 6k instead of 3k.)
I used to only run Mobil 1 or Amsoil back when I ran higher performance/boosted applications but this thing is stock outside of the lift/tires and all.
@Krackerjacked thanks for letting me know!
 
I run 5k on Mobil 1 5w30 high mileage. $24 a jug at Wal Mart. It's usually pretty clean when I change it and it doesn't burn a drop.
 
I run 5k on Mobil 1 5w30 high mileage. $24 a jug at Wal Mart. It's usually pretty clean when I change it and it doesn't burn a drop.
Thanks! So another vote for full synthetic? The only hesitation on my part is that I read something about using full synthetic and having leaks on older cars due to old gaskets, etc. Again just reading on inter webs and being cautious on what I read. I rather trust a community that owns the exact vehicle with real-world use results.
 
Full synthetic can cause leaks if you have a sludge-filled engine where the gunk is stopping a leak and is removed by the synthetic oil. High-mileage synthetic has seal conditioners to slow down leaks. If you do develop a leak, try a bottle of AT-205 seal conditioner to further condition the seals and stop it. That stuff stopped a rear main seal seep im my GX.
 
Full synthetic can cause leaks if you have a sludge-filled engine where the gunk is stopping a leak and is removed by the synthetic oil. High-mileage synthetic has seal conditioners to slow down leaks. If you do develop a leak, try a bottle of AT-205 seal conditioner to further condition the seals and stop it. That stuff stopped a rear main seal seep im my GX.
Sounds like a High-Mileage Synthetic is a good compromise?
 
I don’t think it matters. Change your oil at regular intervals and you are all good. Tons of people use cheap Amazon or Walmart oil and it’s fine. I use amsoil because I like their company and they send stickers and s***.
 
Another vote for synthetic. I’ve run Mobil 1 High Mileage Extended Performance. No complaints at all. I change it religiously every 3 months of 5000 miles, whichever happens first. Probably overkill, but I love this truck and it’s a fun reason to turn a wrench.
 
If you are going to change it regularly, get one of these:
Amazon product ASIN B07D9DXCHP
I finally bought one and installed it last change. Can't wait to use it next time and make the oil change even easier.

As mentioned above, definitely get OEM Toyota filters. They are cheap and work great. Avoid Amazon/eBay as there are lots of fakes sorting around. They are only $5-6 at the dealer usually, I have half a dozen stocked up.
 
If you are going to change it regularly, get one of these:
Amazon product ASIN B07D9DXCHP
I finally bought one and installed it last change. Can't wait to use it next time and make the oil change even easier.

As mentioned above, definitely get OEM Toyota filters. They are cheap and work great. Avoid Amazon/eBay as there are lots of fakes sorting around. They are only $5-6 at the dealer usually, I have half a dozen stocked up.
Yes!!! I am ordering one of these! However the one I found on the Fumoto website wasn’t that model… it was this one

BC1F1086-5CDB-4624-8DBA-A9D9B827B512.jpeg
 
Why in the world would you want that protruding below your oil pan? It's not like it's difficult to just unscrew the bolt. Disposable rubber gloves are your friend. I wouldn't over think oil changes.
 
Why in the world would you want that protruding below your oil pan? It's not like it's difficult to just unscrew the bolt. Disposable rubber gloves are your friend. I wouldn't over think oil changes.
I have an ARB skidplate with a hole under the drain plug. It's kind of difficult to remove the 14mm bolt without spilling oil all over the top of the skidplate, after which it slowly drips onto my driveway for a week. The skidplate of course can be removed, but that's another 8 bolts. Why in the world would I do that when I can simply flip a lever and let it run out cleanly with no spilling at all? :) There is a good 2" of clearance between the bottom of the Fumoto valve and the top of my skidplate. It even has a nipple to attach a 3/8 hose.
 
Yes!!! I am ordering one of these! However the one I found on the Fumoto website wasn’t that model… it was this one
The Amazon one is the exact model I bought and it fit perfectly.
 
I have an ARB skidplate with a hole under the drain plug. It's kind of difficult to remove the 14mm bolt without spilling oil all over the top of the skidplate, after which it slowly drips onto my driveway for a week. The skidplate of course can be removed, but that's another 8 bolts. Why in the world would I do that when I can simply flip a lever and let it run out cleanly with no spilling at all? :) There is a good 2" of clearance between the bottom of the Fumoto valve and the top of my skidplate. It even has a nipple to attach a 3/8 hose.
Exactly what I did after installing my ARB skids. Right down to the drain hose .
 

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