Putting new CV axle back in. (1 Viewer)

[take123]

I disassembled my 2006 Land Cruiser, taking off rotor, put the brake caliper aside, removed the top arm ball joint from spindle, removed the old CV, replaced the old seal with a new one.

My steering tie rod and bottom arm ball joint is still attached to spindle.

I'm trying to put the CV into the Spindle first, and then it'll have enough space to put into the Diff I think, as that is the reverse order I took the old CV out.

How do you guys get the CV axle back into the spindle and the diff? It's really hard to bend the new CV to insert into the Spindle. I have the CV angled on the floor below the diff, and half of it resting on the lower arm, and trying to bend the tip to fit into the spindle.


Do you guys usually have to remove the lower ball joint nut and steering tie rod and just remove the whole spindle out? I really don't want to try that as my ball joints are tight and need to find a tool to crack the spindle loose.

 

[Land Shark]

I have seen lots of folks use the method you are referring to. Just look at youtube they are all over the place. Most are successful with this method.

I personally remove the whole steering knuckle. I like to use the non "bull in a chinashop" approach. That inner oil seal is somewhat fragile and if damaged will leak diff fluid. This allows me to keep the CV (FDS) straight and setting it in the tube or diff pretty easy. I use a bungee cord to keep the FDS (CV) up and straight. Check out @2001LC content. He uses the quick method of "punching" the FDS (CV) into place. I typically use a bar and tap from the lip until seated.

HTH!

 

[2001LC]

It is a PITA installing FDS, without removing knuckle, but doable. Most shop do on lift, removing LBJ only.

Driver side is hardest. When working on left (DS), .turning steering wheel to the right, helps pull knuckle away a little more.

It can be done with only upper ball joint off. It is a very tight fit. Helps to have a helper, pulling on knuckle which pushes down LCA. LCA is being held up by T-bar tension, Stabilizer bar/link tension and shocks max travel. One can loosen T-bars' tension, to make "no helper friendly". By backing off (CCW) the 30mm adjustor bolt. Count how many CCW turns, helps with install/reset later.

It can be done by seating into diff first. But hard to get seated, with knuckle in the way. By seating first in diff, gives extra 1/2" clearance to aid getting axle in other end (knuckle). Seat by using FDS as the ram, snapping into place (just as in video, with knuckle off). Which then is a tighter fit, but doable.

Outer axle of FDS into back of Kunkle first, also doable. Then we don't need to seat in diff first, to get extra 1/2". We seat (last 1/2") into diff, after both ends of FDS in.

Turning steering wheel, give a little extra room for clearance.

Once FDS in, but not fully seated in diff. To get that last 1/2". Jack up LCA, to level FDS best you can. Then grab the knuckle near the top (UBJ not yet attached). Then forcible snap knuckle inward, forcing FDS into diff that last 1/2".

Tips:

• Look at surface of old FDS outer axle, where needle bearing rode. For clues as to condition of needle bearings.
• Inspect seal in back of knuckle and or replace.
• Clean & Inspect needle bearing (damage, pits or wear) & brass bushing for excessive wear (to thin).
• Lube needle bearing and brass bushing.
• Lube diff seal OD rubber and ID of diff, with gear lube. Before installing seal.
• Do not reuse inner snap ring.
• Point open end of inner snap ring down. Adding grease to snap, helps hold in place open end down. Center snap ring on axle in groove, helps for smoother/easier seating (locking in axle).
• Lube diff seals' ID, with grease, before installing FDS.
• Be carful to not move or damage: any seal, brass bushing or needle bearing during FDS install.
• Test that snap ring is seated and locks, FDS inner axle in diff. Try pulling FDS inner axle out of diff, it should not come out. Look at gap between FDS inner tulip and diff. You should see the FDS inner aluminium dust shield, just inside the diff.
• Replace outer snap ring with new of proper thickness to get a gap of less than 0,20mm. Do not reuse snap ring(s).
• Using a new grease cap, avoids water entry.

 

[nissanh]

turn the wheel all the way to left to do the left CV. I have done this way. Look for any parts that can get jamed when turning to left especially the boots.

 

[Sean9421]

Don't even mess with turning the wheel, just undo the 2 bolts holding the bracket for the tie rod onto the knuckle ( I believe they are 19mm). Don't disconnect the tie rod, or undo the adjusting nut, this way once you get your axle back in, you reconnect the upper ball joint and those 2 bolts and your alignment isnt messed up. You are going to have to undo all of the abs wire brackets as well as you can stretch them once the tire rod bracket is disconnected, but it will give you plenty of room to get the axle in.

 

[take123]

Thanks guys. I managed to get the CV in the spindle!

I originally had wheel turned to the end. But then tried to do it when wheel is centered.

I angled the spindle down as hard as I could, and bent that CV sucker with all my strength. Getting more of my feet and body under the truck inside the wheel well helped. I was kneeling in front of the wheel area instead of sitting inside it, so that offered more leverage on my body.

I had just enough space to wiggle the diff end into the diff hole. And made sure the C clip opening was at 6 oclock. Then hammered her in and it went!