What is the purpose of upgrading to aftermarket torsion bars? I may have to remove a bar to get out a striped bolt I have been trying to remove to replace a sway bar bushings and I started thinking If I was to remove the torsion bar I may just upgrade since they are off. But is it really necessary to upgrade over just raising the stock bars? No plans for steel bumper or winch.
Purpose of upgraded torsion bars? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter TenderWarrior
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nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Spring rates vs preload. You can add preload to get height but it'll still be soft and squishy. A stiffer bar requires less preload
It also depends on which vehicle you have , and what kind of additional load you’re carrying. The LX470 has smaller diameter bars because the AHC carries some of the weight. Land Cruisers torsion bars are more robust, as they carry all of the weight. Additionally, if you weigh down your front end with a bumper and winch, additional load carrying capacity from stouter bars will help either vehicle. What are your plans for your truck?
I had a 99 with cranked torsion bars as the lift in the front with OME springs in the rear
The ride was very poor compared to my 2000 with OME 2.5
I hated going off road with the stock torsion bars cranked also there wasn’t much travel so this hindered it a bit off road IMHO
The ride was very poor compared to my 2000 with OME 2.5
I hated going off road with the stock torsion bars cranked also there wasn’t much travel so this hindered it a bit off road IMHO
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- #5
Thanks for the information. My plans are to have a 1.5-2” lift in front as I have now without any additional bumpers or weight up front. It seems upgrading isn’t a bad thing as it would give me better performance from the sound of it.
What torision bars you guys recommend?
What torision bars you guys recommend?
Take a cold chisel and knock the sway bar mount captive nut off the top of the frame section, then replace it with a nut and bolt. Easiest way to do that.
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- #7
Thanks. Not sure why I haven’t thought of just cutting that nut off or cutting the bracket and just getting a new bracket. I’m assuming your talking about the nut that’s part of the metal bracket that holds the rubbing bushing to the sway bar and frame?
Like gator said bro. No need to take out the torsion bars.
My 06, at 100,000 was really squishy - like, it'd hit the bump stops (rear) if I crossed a speed hump at just the right speed. The front was similarly soft. In addition to brake dive and body roll from the added height (from cranking the OE TBs), I didn't like how the truck "landed" coming off rocks, ledges, etc.
I'm talking 1 mph crawling over rocks and ledges - when the front or rear would settle, it'd often settle too far... more bang than was warranted for the small obstacle. The IronMan TBs were a huge (!) improvement in that area - so much more predictable and controllable but still have great flex.
I'm talking 1 mph crawling over rocks and ledges - when the front or rear would settle, it'd often settle too far... more bang than was warranted for the small obstacle. The IronMan TBs were a huge (!) improvement in that area - so much more predictable and controllable but still have great flex.
Ha, looks like we posted at the same time. This is exactly why I am replacing mine this weekend with OME. Tried the other night, but had some trouble getting torsion bar out of rear bracket. A few days of PB blasting and I will give it another go tomorrow (plus air hammer if necessary)
NOPE. Don't cut the bracket. The nut where the bolt holding the bracket goes is on the top side of the frame. It is a captive nut and it is only held on by a couple of tack welds.
Did you strip the head of the bolt that holds the bracket on, or did it snap off? Photo would be useful.
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- #13
Anyone have preference with OME over sway a way or iron man and others?
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- #14
I went with OME cause I don’t have too much extra weight up front (hidden winch eventually) and i think it’s the least beefed up of the upgraded bars. I think sway away is lx only but idk
Go get a flare nut wrench. It might be able to get enough of a bite on that to get it loose. Or get a metal blade for your sawzall and carefully cut the head off. OR get someone to weld another nut to the head of the bolt. Of course, dropping the torsion bar is an option.
Your truck looks nice and clean underneath, so torsion bars aren't going to be a big deal to drop.FWIW, that sway bar bushing actually looks fine to me. Not going to be much - if anything - gained by replacing it.
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duplicate post, deleted.
- Thread starter
- #18
Thanks for the tips. Yes it’s not in bad condition. I did the other one and it wasn’t bad at all. It’s just an OCD thing at this point to have both sides new. The body and underneath are in great condition and unfortunately this Bolt just wanted to get stuck.Go get a flare nut wrench. It might be able to get enough of a bite on that to get it loose. Or get a metal blade for your sawzall and carefully cut the head off. OR get someone to weld another nut to the head of the bolt. Of course, dropping the torsion bar is an option.
FWIW, that sway bar bushing actually looks fine to me. Not going to be much - if anything - gained by replacing it. You are making work for yourself trying to get it out, it looks fine.
I have made a habit of not using box wrenches on bolts like that, for that reason. Easiest way to round the corners off a bolt head or nut.
If it is the passenger side bracket, the reason it is not coming out is because the AC drain line has been dripping on the other end of it and the bolt is rusted in the captive nut. It's not going to come out easy even with the torsion bar off.
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